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How long before a touch hole needs replaced ?

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I still have no idea of why have a touch hole liner (Not a joke here) enlighten me please? I don't believe any of my have one .
Some liners after being installed are filed flush with barrel can appear to be part of the barrel. They can be removed (once) with a screw extractor.
 
A replaceable part is always a plus in my opinion. It also gives you options to try different sized holes without permeant alterations. A liner is usually made of stronger and more rust resistant stainless steel. Likely the biggest reason is the patent breech in most productions guns, which create a thicker barrel wall and a liner design get more powder closer to the touch hole .
I don't think you will find that most Golden Age or modern flint guns made in America used a patent breech system although some did especially in Europe.
There just was no need or advantage for a liner until the flash hole requires replacement and there were no stainless steels available until 1913.
Purdy and a few other high end gun makers offered platinum lined vents for their double Fowler guns though in the 1800s.
 
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I don't think you will find that most Golden Age or modern flint guns made in America used a patent breech system although some did especially in Europe.
There just was no need or advantage for a liner until the flash hole requires replacement and there were no stainless steels available until 1913.
Purdy and a few other high end gun makers offered platinum lined vents for their double Fowler guns though in the 1800s.
I know you will argue this point because after reading your previous posts on other threads you seem to enjoy it.

But you have argued in the past the advantages for liners, you just believe the cone should be on the outside of the vent instead of the inside of the vent.

And for @Gopher0, the advantage of a vent has a lot to do with the thickness of the barrel wall where the vent is. A thick barrel wall means you have a relatively long vent channel that 1, acts like a short fuse delaying ignition time 2, is more prone to fouling than the very thin vent liner at its smallest point.

Speed of ignition is a great aid to accuracy, the longer it takes in milliseconds for the rifle to fire the harder it is to hold on target, that dreaded wobble and follow through.
 
I know you will argue this point because after reading your previous posts on other threads you seem to enjoy it.

But you have argued in the past the advantages for liners, you just believe the cone should be on the outside of the vent instead of the inside of the vent.

And for @Gopher0, the advantage of a vent has a lot to do with the thickness of the barrel wall where the vent is. A thick barrel wall means you have a relatively long vent channel that 1, acts like a short fuse delaying ignition time 2, is more prone to fouling than the very thin vent liner at its smallest point.

Speed of ignition is a great aid to accuracy, the longer it takes in milliseconds for the rifle to fire the harder it is to hold on target, that dreaded wobble and follow through.
Well I enjoy the discussion on an interesting subject and will defend a point I think relevant and correct with the hope that I can learn something from the counter thought that will either change or support my current view. I've heard and used plenty of counter thought ideas picked up in these discussions but some ideas are pure apple sauce and need to be challenged as such.
I make my own vents and so naturally am interested in how well and why they work or not but also know they are not necessary to good, reliable and fast ignition.
Being honest to the discussion I also see that any advantage applied to a vent liner can also be applied to a barrel wall vent including moving it closer to the pan flash with interior or exterior counter-boring.
I suppose some folks demand that their thought be the only one allowed and if challenged then feel personally attached when in reality they could choose to either be rewarded with better data or reinforce why their view on any particular subject can maintain itself by sound reasoning.

Gopher0's post was also relevant and honest to the discussion.
 
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I have a touch hole liner, but its flat head screwdriver groove is worn out to the point that I'm gonna need to drill it out to change it. So I'm not changing it until I HAVE to.

Has anyone had luck using a left handed drill bit to remove one of these, or(when I HAVE to) should I just buy an easy out?
The left-handed drill bit would work. It's a lot easier to find an easy out,
 
Well I enjoy the discussion on an interesting subject and will defend a point I think relevant and correct with the hope that I can learn something from the counter thought that will either change or support my current view. I've heard and used plenty of counter thought ideas picked up in these discussions but some ideas are pure apple sauce and need to be challenged as such.
I make my own vents and so naturally am interested in how well and why they work or not but also know they are not necessary to good, reliable and fast ignition.
Being honest to the discussion I also see that any advantage applied to a vent liner can also be applied to a barrel wall vent including moving it closer to the pan flash with interior or exterior counter-boring.
I suppose some folks demand that their thought be the only one allowed and if challenged then feel personally attached when in reality they could choose to either be rewarded with better data or reinforce why their view on any particular subject can maintain itself by sound reasoning.

Gopher0's post was also relevant and honest to the discussion.
Very nice tap dancing you did there.
 
Here’s my answer …

Whahhht … they need to be replaced … ?????

That was my experience with my 1st flintlock, a Caywood Wilson, as I shot anywhere from 8 to 12 pounds of powdah a year through that musket the first 2 years I had it! And it is still going strong with the same touch hole …
And there you go, there is no substitute for real world results. :thumb:
 
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Thinking I may need to get a liner installed. Touch hole is enlarged enough that the pan is getting flame cut.
 

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Thinking I may need to get a liner installed. Touch hole is enlarged enough that the pan is getting flame cut.
That looks to me like the pan is to high not the flash hole. I think perhaps all that is needed is for the pan to be milled deeper. Ideally the flash hole should be mid hole level with the top of the pan.
The flash hole still looks round not ragged and oblong from erosion although perhaps a bit large in diameter.
 

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