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Hand made locks?

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tom in nc

45 Cal.
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Thinking about trying my hand at making the locks I need for my double barrel shotgun, I decided the first step would be to cut out the lock plates. The easy part, right? After making the RH side first I discovered that it didn't fit the existing inlet on the LH side very well. So I made another.
Not a big difference, but some.
 
I have since found and ordered a pair of used locks, complete with internal parts, missing only the cocks/hammers. I haven't checked yet but I bet Dixie Gun Works has the cocks/ hammers.
 
I might be misinformed and concerned about a non-issue, but a friend of mine has pointed out that I might have a problem with the pair of locks that I have coming for my shotgun. He says that the threads for the screws that retain the cocks/hammers onto the square shafts are often an uncommon thread and I might have a hard time finding the screws. It is unclear if the screws are included with my purchase(s).
I understand that the square parts are hardened so rethreading to a more common available thread is not a simple matter.
 
Tom, in the past i have cast those axel screws using candle wax. oil the screw hole swab with a qtip to remove most of the oil and pour melted wax in. insert a small blade flat screw driver while still soft and wait for complete cooling. unscrew the wax cast and check with a pitch gauge.
if you proceed with making those locks by hand take pictures. i for one would be fascinated.
but then i get fascinated watching ants crawling through the grass. 😁
 
I have made a few for guns missing the lock. File out the lock plate to fit the mortise, and used bought parts to fit to the plate I made.
 
Yeah, I'm hoping the locks that I have coming will fit right onto my gun. But if not I should be able to use the springs and other internal parts and make two new plates that fit. I hope!
 
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One of the locks I bought came today. It's close, but not exactly right. The part that should contact the trigger is turned down to a vertical position but should be horizontal. It is a little too far towards the rear also. I can maybe modify it to work. The other lock looked a little different in the seller's pic so I'll see if it is closer. Maybe I'll have a pair of springs I can use, at least.
 
View attachment 235229
One of the locks I bought came today. It's close, but not exactly right. The part that should contact the trigger is turned down to a vertical position but should be horizontal. It is a little too far towards the rear also. I can maybe modify it to work. The other lock looked a little different in the seller's pic so I'll see if it is closer. Maybe I'll have a pair of springs I can use, at least.
Tom,

I used to call the incorrectly bent part of the sear the tail, but now know it was usually called the foot.

I have placed a number of sears with the forward part of the sear in a smooth jawed vise to act as a heat sink while I heated the foot cherry red to bend it once, twice or as many times as you need. Does not require special heat treating as long as you don't get the metal white hot and if so, you probably ruined it anyway.

Gus
 
View attachment 234148
Thinking about trying my hand at making the locks I need for my double barrel shotgun, I decided the first step would be to cut out the lock plates. The easy part, right? After making the RH side first I discovered that it didn't fit the existing inlet on the LH side very well. So I made another.
Not a big difference, but some.
You may want to contact Chambers about their Gunmakers locks and if there is an option available that would fit your back action mortised stock.
1689049299095.png
 
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