Gun Cleaning

[AZbpBurner]

try go-jo the cream w/o pumice.. wipe a dry(no fluids first) dirty barrel with it,,up down about 5-6 times change patch add a lil more go jo,,swab 5-6-7 times..pour some water or windshield washer fluid or whatever, in it,,swab 6-8x , rinse, repeat and dry barrel...works for me!
..and everyone i've shown,,lol :thumbsup:

Go-Jo is good stuff. I have a little squeezy bottle filled 1/3 Go-Jo + 2/3 water + a couple of drops of dish detergent. I use it on patches at the range to wipe between shots, and then before the trip home. I've also got some WW I vintage bore cleaner that I can swab the barrel with if I'm in the field for a few days, or in the event I'm delayed coming home to bucket-clean the same evening.

 

[AZbpBurner]

I use pyrodex ALOT and all most all my gns clean up easy or easier the my 3f goex?

Per above I have 1 or 2 that may need the gasoline trick as they behave poorly at clean up time NO MATTER WHAT (goex or pyro they still take 10 time more patches to come out clean) ?

I use Pyrodex, or Goex, or in the flints Pyrodex with a Goex kicker, and fouling clean up is not an issue. They both clean up easily and work just fine.

Seems odd that the same Pyrodex bashers never take issue with aluminum cleaning rods, Bronze nipples, or CO2 dischargers :idunno:

 

[btech]

This confirms what I've said for years. Takien from Flintlocks: How to Shoot Them by Paul Vallandigham.

"Black powder can be cleaned out of a barrel with soap and water, while you have to use smelly commercial cleaners to remove most black powder substitute residues.
You do have to clean guns that you shoot with the substitutes, and even with smokeless powder. There is no getting around that. You have to use one solvent to remove the plastic that rubs off the wad in the barrel, and another to dissolve the salts and other chemical compounds in the residue from the black powder substitute. At the range I use a brush to break up the crud after each shot, so that I can continue to load and not see a change in the point of impact of my shots due to fouling buildup."

Soap and water does not adequately clean Pyrodex. I know this adds arguments for not using Pyrodex but it's easier and cheaper to buy. No hazmat fees.

 

[necchi]

God bless Paul, he's a member here sorely missed.
But Paul had is opinion and stuck to it.
Soap and water cleans Pyrodex and other subs just fine, you just can't stop cleaning until it's clean. (period)

 

[azmntman]

I have used dish soap n water for Goex, Pyrodex and triple 7 (and I guess some other kind I found a 1/4 can of in the garage Sunday?). Never had an issue :idunno: .

 

[Col. Batguano]

So that begs the question; what is clean? When a white patch on your jag of a dry bore comes out the same color it started out after 10-15 strokes?

Mine never get THAT clean. I give it a couple dozen strokes with the vent in the soapy warm water bucket, then the same in a clean water bucket, then a few dry patches, then alcohol soaked patch, then dry patches again and that gets me pretty close to ALMOST having the same color patch after a few strokes. Then an oily patch and I'm ready to call it clean, no matter what.

 

[azmntman]

Same....How ever a month or two back in many (failed)attempts to shoot out a stuck ball I got some of the worst goo/gunk I ever seen and it took an hour to clean it out! White hissing steam stuff that ruined two nipple and totally clogged the flash channel! Posted it but nobody knew what the heck it coulda been?

Exception are my 4 cabelas with chrome lined barrels that literally take 4-5 patches including dry and oil!

 

[sixgunner]

the rag comes out with powder residue on it.

Black?

Somewhere's down the line of shooting, cleaning and oiling, the gun was fired when there was still a good amount of oil (Barricade) still in the bore.
The heat and residue from fired Black powder when mixed with oil turns into a substance that is very much like tar.(aka; Asphalt)

The only way to get that stuff out is with a petroleum solvent. I have rescued several barrels with this condition by doing the pump method cleaning only using gasoline as the wash component. A soup can is enough, and do it outside,, then follow up with brake cleaner to remove the gas.
Keep that up till a white patch comes out white.
it's the only way to beat it. Water and bp solvents won't do it, the commercial bp solvents are just water and soap any way.

Word to the wise: once upon a time gasoline contained lead tetraethyl, which was bad because in LARGE quantities and continuous exposure produced lead poisoning.
It was safe to use gasoline as a washing agent. Hell, it was safe to SWALLOW a little of the stuff if you used a rubber hose to empty your car/bike tank before maintenance or to get some for the mower.
Modern "green" gasoline contains benzene. Benzene is one of the deadliest substances on Earth and is mightly carcinogenic. Leukemia is one of the safest things it can give you, then there's the rest of really nasty things it can induce.

DO NOT use gasoline.

Acetone is a solvent and is far safer.
Brake cleaner by itself does a very good job.
But if you want the absolute best of the tar solvents, the top, the bees knees, which is 100% natural, safe, good smelling and far, far more effective than gas or all the other combined, use a limonene based product. It will dissolve tar and most other kinds of gunk like magic.
Moreover you can use it to clean your bike's engine and a lot of other stuff.

 

[Mulebrain]

I always use room temp water, and a little dawn dish soap. I scrub and rinse the bore, until the water comes out clean. I then swab then lube with olive oil.

I found the hot water sure likes to get flash rust started

 

[FishDFly]

I always use room temp water, and a little dawn dish soap. I scrub and rinse the bore, until the water comes out clean. I then swab then lube with olive oil.

I found the hot water sure likes to get flash rust started

I watch a lot of the top line shooter who clean on the line before leaving for the day, they all do as you do, no hot water.