OK i have put together 2 kits, the one i did last Aug./Sept was the latest. I assume that a Colonial n Virginia are about the same ? Would a 7/8" barrel be a good choice ? I want it in a .45 cal conical twist n its going to be a flintlock. Length no more than 36" because i believe it will get fairly heavy quickly. My reason on the virginia is i really don't care for a lot of drop in the stock. Now this build is not set in stone, as i am open to a nice easy handling rifle, i also don't give a fig about shooting tick toters past a hundred yards. Spect this side of 75 yards more to my liking
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Flintlock Kit Build
- Thread starter smokepolehall
- Start date
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I just acquired a 36" , 1:66 GM barrel in .45, straight profile with plans to do pretty much the same as you....a small, lightweight rifle/carbine (but for round ball). GM doesn't show a .45 barrel in 36" with a 1:48 'ish twist so might not meet your requirements there for conicals. Perhaps Colerain worth a try?
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
A "Colonial Virginia" is a big gun. You'll want a swamped 1 1/8" barrel and a buttplate around 2" wide.
Ok then what style would be choice to go with ? I am really looking for a nice easy handling rifle that has very little drop in the stock, don't want nary a barrel real long. I am a tick toter hunter
I have been window shopping, The J Dickert kit from Pecatonia has a stock to my liking n it appears to be a smaller rifle than the Early virginia. So i will ck out the size of Kiblers Lock to see if it will fit
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Tick toter?
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
You'll want to use a Large siler in that stock.
Pete G
76 Cal.
Goes along with rock lock.
Yes indeed n throw in the rock sparker n your rock lock n tick toter sounds like a BBQ in the making
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
AHHH......now I get it.
If it were me and I wanted the caliber and stock configuration that you want, I would start with a blank with the barrel channel and ramrod hole drilled. I like a gun to fit me, it makes a world of difference compared to factory pre-carve offerings.
I wouldn't use a 7/8" barrel and would opt for a B weight swamped .45 barrel.
I have built two such guns, a Beck and a fowler turkey gun.
First, I bought a blank from Dunlap and had it sent to Fred Miller (Knob Mt now) to have the barrel inletted and ramrod hole drilled, he did a super job.
Next, I got a full-sized plan to use as a reference from TOW and traced a cardboard pattern to mark the pattern on my blank.
I made an adjustable try stock to determine the perfect length of pull and drop for me. After I got the measurements, I altered my cardboard pattern to accommodate them.
The full-sized plan showed cutouts of various places up and down the stock to give you a good idea of how to shape the wood. The plan apart from the side profile is just a reference and not an exact guide to follow as your parts may be different than the ones used in the plan.
Shaping a stock is not difficult at all, once the butt plate is on, it shows you how to proceed forward. I use a contour gage to make sure the wood is rounded correctly where it needs to be.
This is only my second gun build; I used the same method on my first gun but left too much wood on the stock that for a clunky looking gun, I got it right on this one.
I wouldn't use a 7/8" barrel and would opt for a B weight swamped .45 barrel.
I have built two such guns, a Beck and a fowler turkey gun.
First, I bought a blank from Dunlap and had it sent to Fred Miller (Knob Mt now) to have the barrel inletted and ramrod hole drilled, he did a super job.
Next, I got a full-sized plan to use as a reference from TOW and traced a cardboard pattern to mark the pattern on my blank.
I made an adjustable try stock to determine the perfect length of pull and drop for me. After I got the measurements, I altered my cardboard pattern to accommodate them.
The full-sized plan showed cutouts of various places up and down the stock to give you a good idea of how to shape the wood. The plan apart from the side profile is just a reference and not an exact guide to follow as your parts may be different than the ones used in the plan.
Shaping a stock is not difficult at all, once the butt plate is on, it shows you how to proceed forward. I use a contour gage to make sure the wood is rounded correctly where it needs to be.
This is only my second gun build; I used the same method on my first gun but left too much wood on the stock that for a clunky looking gun, I got it right on this one.
