AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
nhmoose said:
So, what are you? The Time Machine Cop? :rotf:
Never hurts to give him something to read upon his return home so that maybe next year he can get it right.
If that's OK with you :idunno:
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First shot moose
- Thread starter Dave11
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So, what are you? The Time Machine Cop? :rotf:
Never hurts to give him something to read upon his return home so that maybe next year he can get it right.
If that's OK with you :idunno:
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Zonie covered it well.
IMO: Folks worry too much about the patent breech. Clean the flame channel under the nipple with a bristled pipe cleaner.
Store the rifle muzzle down.
Before loading the rifle run a tight fitting patch all the way down then cap and fire. Remove the ramrod and patch. The patch should be blackened on the end. The bore is still clean.
For peace of mind while hunting work some powder into the flash channel and under the nipple.
IMO: Folks worry too much about the patent breech. Clean the flame channel under the nipple with a bristled pipe cleaner.
Store the rifle muzzle down.
Before loading the rifle run a tight fitting patch all the way down then cap and fire. Remove the ramrod and patch. The patch should be blackened on the end. The bore is still clean.
For peace of mind while hunting work some powder into the flash channel and under the nipple.
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Well, hopefully he had a good flight and is in camp now, loading up his rifle.
My first ML, a CVA Kentuck, had a bad habit of the same thing. I learned to slap the bolster side after pouring powder, then pull the nipple and trickle some powder in. That always did the trick. I later figured out it was Operator Error in cleaning. Changed my routine and haven't had trouble since.
Me and a friend went on a spendy hunt around Sonora and not wanting to take chances we both fired a blank charge from the front porch before the hunt, then loading and heading out. It was a 1 day hunt so we weren't worried about corrosion.
Never had moose meat....I wanna try it someday.
My first ML, a CVA Kentuck, had a bad habit of the same thing. I learned to slap the bolster side after pouring powder, then pull the nipple and trickle some powder in. That always did the trick. I later figured out it was Operator Error in cleaning. Changed my routine and haven't had trouble since.
Me and a friend went on a spendy hunt around Sonora and not wanting to take chances we both fired a blank charge from the front porch before the hunt, then loading and heading out. It was a 1 day hunt so we weren't worried about corrosion.
Never had moose meat....I wanna try it someday.
When you load try your half cock set and the rifle not capped. {for safety} When you charge the barrel with the PRB it will blow air down the tube and under the nipple, this will carry a bit of the powder down past the patent breach and into the fire port, thus getting some powder under the nipple.
With the hammer down on the nipple it does not do the air swoosh as well and doesn't get powder under the nipple.
With the hammer down on the nipple it does not do the air swoosh as well and doesn't get powder under the nipple.
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Good point. Along with that I always tip the rifle on it's side with the bolster down, then give it a couple of slaps to assure powder settles into the flame channel. Done.
When I pop caps prior to loading I do it with a cleaning jag and patch down the barrel. This way any oil you blow out goes into the patch instead of down your barrel to be rammed back in with your reloading.
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When we built the CVA rifle in 8th grade shop class the hammer didn't align with the nipple well. The shop teacher put the barrel in a vise and w/A cheater pipe turned the bolster until the hammer lined up with the nipple.
Years later I realised turning the bolster may have reduced the hole from barrel to bolster, making it harder to get powder in the drum. That and using lots of oil cleaning and not running a dry patch before loading led to hangfires and misfires.
The first round was hard to ignite, after that no problems. When plinking no big deal, when hunting another story.
Years later I realised turning the bolster may have reduced the hole from barrel to bolster, making it harder to get powder in the drum. That and using lots of oil cleaning and not running a dry patch before loading led to hangfires and misfires.
The first round was hard to ignite, after that no problems. When plinking no big deal, when hunting another story.
Success!....another bull moose is on his way to the deep freeze.
I am confident I found at least one cause of the delayed ignition.
When we arrived in camp and I started the loading proccess, I fired one percussion cap with muzzle pointed at a frail looking leaf on the ground, the leaf never moved. After firing the second cap the leaf definitely moved.
After loading the charge I removed the nipple and sprinkled a bit of powder down into the ignition chamber just for added insurance.
Four days later I took a nice young bull from about 30 yards from our canoe. The bullet entered just behind the left shoulder and hit both lungs.
The ignition was instantaneous, as it should be.
Up to this point in the trip the weather was fairly dry, the remander of the days involved quite a bit of rain. When it came time to go home the rifle would not fire as the cap and nipple were wet. I always tape the muzzle to prevent moiture from entering , but it seems I coupd use some advice on how to protect the cap and nipple.
Dave
I am confident I found at least one cause of the delayed ignition.
When we arrived in camp and I started the loading proccess, I fired one percussion cap with muzzle pointed at a frail looking leaf on the ground, the leaf never moved. After firing the second cap the leaf definitely moved.
After loading the charge I removed the nipple and sprinkled a bit of powder down into the ignition chamber just for added insurance.
Four days later I took a nice young bull from about 30 yards from our canoe. The bullet entered just behind the left shoulder and hit both lungs.
The ignition was instantaneous, as it should be.
Up to this point in the trip the weather was fairly dry, the remander of the days involved quite a bit of rain. When it came time to go home the rifle would not fire as the cap and nipple were wet. I always tape the muzzle to prevent moiture from entering , but it seems I coupd use some advice on how to protect the cap and nipple.
Dave
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Congrats on the moose! Best news is that it was a youngster. Horns are fun on the wall, but young bull is its own reward in the freezer.
Lotta newer devices and strategies for protecting the nipple/cap. But in my long experience in really wet country, the oldest method is still best. Check into a cow's knee lock cover. I'm with you on taping the muzzle, especially in boats, but the back end needs protection, too.
Dave Eddie said:
Lotta newer devices and strategies for protecting the nipple/cap. But in my long experience in really wet country, the oldest method is still best. Check into a cow's knee lock cover. I'm with you on taping the muzzle, especially in boats, but the back end needs protection, too.
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Congratulations on the moose!
As much as I prefer to not hunt in wet weather, I do need to find the "cow's knee" that I made so as to have it with me. Its here somewhere...
As much as I prefer to not hunt in wet weather, I do need to find the "cow's knee" that I made so as to have it with me. Its here somewhere...
Dave Eddie said:
You still have a lot of fouling or something in the breech area of your rifle. Remove the nipple and run a stiff bristled pipe cleaner from the nipple seat into the breech. You have a removable barrel on your T/C Hawken. Its time to clean your rifle by removing the barrel and placing the breech in a bucket of water with a few drops of dish washing detergent. Dampen your cleaning patch and watch for the jet of water coming through the nipple seat to really flush out the breech. You probably need to use a 30 caliber brush to scrub out the breech.
If I had what I thought was a clean gun and my cap didn't move the leave or blade of grass, I would think that its rime to really make sure that the path from the nipple to the main charge was open. I would remove the nipple and use the pipe cleaner. You did well by making sure you had something of an open flash channel and putting a few grains of powder under the nipple.
Congratulations on your moose.
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Congrats on what sounds like a great trip, and meat in the freezer.
Never tried moose meat, gotta go soon and check it out.
Never tried moose meat, gotta go soon and check it out.
Congratulations. Glad it worked for you.
Despite all the advice about popping caps before firing I have had guns that still had ignition problems. Even after several caps that would blow dirt there would still be a delay. This was after cleaning with brake cleaner, alcohol, solvents, detergents, etc.
As some did note, clean it out good.
I got a .32cal bore brush with a steel cleaning rod and chucked it in a slow speed drill. Put it in the chamber and ran it for a bit. Ran a patch in there to clean all the crud out and then did it again. Got more crud. One more time and it was clean.
Then the flash channel. Used a piece of wire that just barely fit. Filed a chisel end on it and ran it in and out of the flash channel until I got no more crud out of there. Then cleaned it.
I oil the gun with Remoil to prevent rust. Before shooting I pour some alcohol down the barrel and let it run out where the nipple seats.
When loading hold barrel with nipple low and tap the barrel so some powder will be in the flash channel. Like stated above, leave the hammer on half cock when loading so some of the powder can be 'blown' into the channel.
Like you found out, charging the flash channel after loading is a good method as well.
Despite all the advice about popping caps before firing I have had guns that still had ignition problems. Even after several caps that would blow dirt there would still be a delay. This was after cleaning with brake cleaner, alcohol, solvents, detergents, etc.
As some did note, clean it out good.
I got a .32cal bore brush with a steel cleaning rod and chucked it in a slow speed drill. Put it in the chamber and ran it for a bit. Ran a patch in there to clean all the crud out and then did it again. Got more crud. One more time and it was clean.
Then the flash channel. Used a piece of wire that just barely fit. Filed a chisel end on it and ran it in and out of the flash channel until I got no more crud out of there. Then cleaned it.
I oil the gun with Remoil to prevent rust. Before shooting I pour some alcohol down the barrel and let it run out where the nipple seats.
When loading hold barrel with nipple low and tap the barrel so some powder will be in the flash channel. Like stated above, leave the hammer on half cock when loading so some of the powder can be 'blown' into the channel.
Like you found out, charging the flash channel after loading is a good method as well.
Bring more gun- reload quick- have a buddy with a cartridge arm at hand- Be paranoid- Could still be a griz looking to add fat before the big sleep.
On the practical side: If you get a little ultralight alcohol burning stove (penny stove) and a 500ml bottle of 90% alcohol you can degrease/de oil your barrel in the morning and then boil a coffee with what you pour out of the barrel.
