deerstalker vs. great plains hunter

[William O.]

i need to just put some degreaser or something down the barrel and brush the heck out of it to get all that crud out so i can play with my new toy. the instructions said to soak barrel overnight with wd40 then scrub in the morning. joe at lyman told me to use a strong degreaser. so there is a little confusion there as well.

Welcome to the darkside young apprentice.... :grin: Anyway, Lyman puts on some packing grease into and around the barrel so that there won't be any rust by the time it gets sold and used for the first time by the new owner. Remove the nipple using your nipple wrench first. Pick up a can a brake cleaner at the local auto parts or hardware store then spray some down the barrel (with barrel removed from stock first) and on the outside. Wipe off the outside and drain the bore using an old but clean rag, repeat and then run some cleaning patches down the bore to see if you've got it all out. Do it again if there's still some grease in the bore. Once you are done then use a rust preventative on all metal parts and you're good to go. Prior to shooting your rifle, run a cleaing patch dampened with 91% alcohol down the bore to remove any left over oil that could affect the powder charge. A cleaning patch that is dripping with alcohol is not what you want, just dampened.

 

[Zonie]

The WD40 might work but the stuff they put into the barrels is a really tough type of grease.

Something that dissolves grease like disk brake cleaner, MEK, lacquer thinner, acetone or (with enough persuasion) denatured alcohol will get rid of it.

These are rather nasty chemicals so I can see why the instructions might suggest something safer like WD40 but IMO WD40 will just soften the gunk and it will probably take many repeats of the process to get rid of all of it.

 

[BrownBear]

...but IMO WD40 will just soften the gunk and it will probably take many repeats of the process to get rid of all of it.

You got that right. I've come to rely on brake pad cleaner from the auto store. Generally 2 or 3 patches wetted with it take the bore down to shiny bright.

 

[sawandhammer]

thanks guy's,
i happen to have some "break free" in the garage. that's what i'll use then.

 

[Lonegun1894]

I second using brake parts cleaner to get all the grease out of it. As an aside, I also use it to help clean some modern guns, just make sure you don't get any on wood or anything else except metal. It gets carbon off really well, and at least around here usually costs me $1-1.50 and is the same exact stuff they sell at the gun counter for $7-10 and the only difference is the label. So this stuff is a good multi-purpose cleaner, but like has been said, it is kinda aggressive and harsh, on skin, and gunstock finishes, and other things.

 

[rodwha]

Awesome necchi!

Reading through this showed me that, like sawandhammer, I was having to really put a gorilla grip and the barrel/stock to somewhat get them to align enough to force the wedge in.

I loosened the tang, and it fit much more easily. Then I tightened up the screws on the tang.

The wedge still needs to be smacked in there, but it's not like it was before...

Zonie had mentioned backing the screws out, but I didn't understand it well enough I suppose. Sorry Zonie.

I used WD40 as they had suggested and it did take a bit of work. But I was OK with that.

I also had bought a brass punch from ToTW: http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/1041/1/TOOL-KEY-B

 

[necchi]

You guy's just be sure to clean them barrels
till a White Patch comes out White, !

This is the handy tool for stuborn Wedges/Keys, the one side is a nipple wrench too;

http://www.google.com/search?q=thompson+center+wedge+puller

 

[rodwha]

Is that tool sometimes necessary? Seems the punch and rubber mallet knocks it right out fairly easily.

 

[cynthialee]

that tool will come in handy in the field.
Who wants to carry a rubber mallet around when at the range or hunting?

 

[necchi]

Is that tool sometimes necessary?

No, but it is a handy tool,
One hand. Tap. Twist. Done.
The set-up of Wedge tention is an individual thing, it all depends on how much a person want's.

My gun's are shooters not Locker Queens, I'm not anal enough to worry about a few scratches on the Key or Key slot inlays.

 

[rodwha]

I certainly would not take much, especially my huge mallet, in the field, though it would likely be in camp.

I have a good sized tool box I use as a range box, and it all goes with me to the range.

Can that tool fit under the wedge if it's seated flush?

I had to get over the marring I put on my wedge. I don't like it, but it's a gun I intend on crawling through the brush with. It will eventually get dinged and scratched. That's what it's for...

 

[Jamie from Alberta]

well, only going off what i have read it seems that .50 cal is more accurate.

I imagine there are going to be several who may disagree with you on that one. Based on my experience, accuracy has more to do with the gun, load and shooter than it does with caliber.
Jeff

I'm going to be one of those who disagrees with the 50 caliber being more accurate than the .54. As has been said, the .54 will put down just about any critter in North America plus when comparing the 50 caliber to the .54 of the same model rifle, the latter will be lighhter so if you decide on the GPR (Great Plains Rifle) I would definately get the 54 caliber. Have you looked at the Lyman Trade Rifle? It comes in either .50 or .54 and both have the 1:48 twist rate allowing you to shoot lead conicals. For the money this model might be the best bang for your buck out there.

Sound advice right there
The Trade Rifle that is.

 

[necchi]

Can that tool fit under the wedge if it's seated flush?

No, that's why there is a small "hammer" end. (tap)

 

[sarcasmn]

Sawandhammer,

Very interesting post to read. I just purchased a Deerstalker in .54 cal. I think that .50 cal. balls etc are probably easier to find but I picked up the .54 for 325.00 to my door brand new and couldn't pass it up. I too am in Florida and hunt in central Georgia also. I have always bowhunted like you but plan to use this rifle to hunt. I think the smaller size will be perfect for fighting through the palmettos.

I had to use only some very serious two thumb pressure to get my wedge pin in. I am now wondering if that is too loose but it doesn't seem to want to fall out or come back out unless I use a brass punch. I did follow the advice here and use some brake cleaner to get that gunk out of the barrel.

Do yourself a favor and get a good quality range rod before you go to the range.

This forum is great as there are a lot of very friendly and knowledgeable people her that can teach you trick that have taken them years to learn.