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Cleaning solvents for Pyrodex.

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Keeffer

32 Cal
Joined
Mar 3, 2023
Messages
19
Reaction score
8
Location
Louisiana
I usually clean the bore on my 50 cal J B mountain rifle, with the breech end in very hot water. Ouse cleaning patches on the jag, to pull hot water up into the bore using pumping action with the ramrod. This works pretty well, but rifling on the JB, is so deep, it’s difficult to ensure lubrication all through the rifling and lands. Anyone have an easier method for the Browning mountain rifle?
 
All I do for ANY of my bp firearms is this-

I pump cold soapy (Dawn) water through the barrel (even if I have to use a flush tube on a pinned barrel), rinse with pumping cold water. I then liberally spray wd-40 down the barrel to displace water. Patch it dry. I then patch the barrel with Brownells Rust Preventative #2 making sure some gets into the patent breech if the firearm has one. The only exception to this is if the patch lube if TOTW mink tallow, I use hot soapy water on a plastic bristled brush multiple times up and down the barrel. No rust. No missfires, No patent breech issues. No drama.
 
You did say Pyrodex. I use that too. Two cleaners have completely stopped any rusting problems for me. One is LA's Totally Awesome cleaner found in the Dollar Tree here.I think you can fine it in any of the dollar type stores.Cheap too, a $1.25 buys 32 oz. The other is Windex window cleaner with ammonia. You do have to dry and use your preservative after that. I now use Ballistall. If you use Pyrodex and corrosive caps Like I use you have to bring your A game in cleaning.
 
Murphy's Oil Soap and hot water in a bucket, cleaned in the traditional way by sucking it up through the flash channel using a cleaning patch wrapped around a fitted .54 caliber brass jag. Use the same jag and a 2.25" cleaning patch that has had a bit of T/C Bore Butter smeared on it. Run this patch up and down the bore three times while the barrel is still hot/warm. Lube the nipple threads with anti-seize compound of some kind and you are pretty much done.

My biggest trouble is getting the nipple out. Browning didn't leave much clearance for the nipple wrench!
 
I've always used dish soap on brush covered with patch rinse with cold water, Then dry patches and then patches with rubbing alcohol . let set for 10 min. then coat a patch with some bore butter and all set to put away!
 
Also while I'm using the cleaning rod and brush I set the nipple end of the barrel down in my toilet bowl while ramming brush up and down the barrel and it creates a suction flushing process and quicker cleaning and the mess is in the toilet ready to flush away! No mess no fuss!
 
All I do for ANY of my bp firearms is this-

I pump cold soapy (Dawn) water through the barrel (even if I have to use a flush tube on a pinned barrel), rinse with pumping cold water. I then liberally spray wd-40 down the barrel to displace water. Patch it dry. I then patch the barrel with Brownells Rust Preventative #2 making sure some gets into the patent breech if the firearm has one. The only exception to this is if the patch lube if TOTW mink tallow, I use hot soapy water on a plastic bristled brush multiple times up and down the barrel. No rust. No missfires, No patent breech issues. No drama.
Sounds about the same as what I do, except for the WD40. I keep patched, saturated with rig gun grease! Run it through the bore 2 or 3 times, then wipe down the outside with more rig saturated rags.
 
Sounds about the same as what I do, except for the WD40. I keep patched, saturated with rig gun grease! Run it through the bore 2 or 3 times, then wipe down the outside with more rig saturated rags.
I hear Rig is good. I only use the wd-40 to flush/push water from the bore. It is then patched dry before adding my choice of rust preventing oil. I'm worried that even if I use hot water, some will remain in the bore if I don't flush it out with wd-40.
 
After firing a rifle using Pyrodex, i swab the bore with a patch wet with Windex with vinegar, now called multipurpose cleaner, before leaving the range. The vinegar dissolves and neutralizes the fouling which is base, sometimes it fizzes.

At home i run a bore brush. The bore is then swabbed with a patch wet with tap water followed by dry patches. Lastly, the bore is swabbed with a patch moist with WC 40.
 
After firing a rifle using Pyrodex, i swab the bore with a patch wet with Windex with vinegar, now called multipurpose cleaner, before leaving the range. The vinegar dissolves and neutralizes the fouling which is base, sometimes it fizzes.

At home i run a bore brush. The bore is then swabbed with a patch wet with tap water followed by dry patches. Lastly, the bore is swabbed with a patch moist with WC 40.
What is the ratio between the Windex and the vinegar?
 
It's about three percent acetic acid. Mike Venturino, former black powder editor at Shooting Times magazine put me onto Windex with vinegar. Many SASS shooters use the stuff.
It's already mixed and on the grocer's shelf like Windex with ammonia?
 
I hear Rig is good. I only use the wd-40 to flush/push water from the bore. It is then patched dry before adding my choice of rust preventing oil. I'm worried that even if I use hot water, some will remain in the bore if I don't flush it out with wd-40.
I use very hot water. So hot you have to use oven mitts to hold on to the barrel. It dries really fast.
 
It's already mixed and on the grocer's shelf like Windex with ammonia?
That's what I read it to mean, but I haven't seen it yet. I did finally notice that the most common Windex glass cleaner in the stores near me is almost always "ammonia free." :(

I have to look for the 'classic' formula. Last place I found it was the cleaning aisle at Home Depot, so I bought 2.

Will keep an eye out for the pre-vinagered variety.

Who knows? Maybe it'll do double duty as salad dressing! :p
 
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