• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Cannon Steel

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

burch

40 Cal.
Joined
Jul 26, 2006
Messages
127
Reaction score
2
Location
Cocoa, Fl.
I`m working a job right now and found some solid stock. I have 5 pieces that range from 2" dia. to 3" dia. Some of it is round and some is octagonal. The shortest one is around 2 1/2' long. My question is: is this stuff good enough for making cannon barrels ?

burch
 
what matters is the carbon content of the steel want low carbon steel like1018 works well and remeber the bore should be no more then 1/3 the dia
 
My wife is a non ferrous metal buyer for a major corp. She has a gun that measures metal content so i`ll have to get her to bring home her gun. If this is good stuff i`ll have enough to make several cannon barrels or maybe just sell the stock cheap enough to get the rest of the supplies to make myself one. I have a mini cannon that I use for fun and no projectile. I really wanted a golfball cannon. :thumbsup:
 
until around 1890 cannons were cast iron - before that (until around 1650) they were brass or bronze so your rolled steel material is good for cannon but keep the powder charge on the low side and work up carefully
 
Blizzard of 93 said:
until around 1890 cannons were cast iron - before that (until around 1650) they were brass or bronze so your rolled steel material is good for cannon but keep the powder charge on the low side and work up carefully



There were specific formula for both the Gunmetal bronzes and the cast steel guns used in the old guns.

Because of metal fatigue each type of metal has a specific number of rounds that could be fired before the guns was taken out of service.

Cast iron was rejected very earlier on as too brittle in gun use.

Experimentation went on in casting crude steels back in the 17th century. As advancements were made in cast steels they were incorporated in cannons.

Not all modern steels are suitable for gun barrel use even at blackpowder pressures. 1018 is considered the preferred steel as it has all the qualities need for a cannon barrel-tensile strength, ductility, and weldablility.

The 4140 class steel also know as ordnance steel used in modern arms is not desired for the hobbyist cannon maker as it requires special welding techniques to avoid embrittlement around the welded areas.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top