Buttplate layout

Okay... I am just stuck on this. How the heck do you lay this out? I have the LOP, but where to I align the rails & heal extension so that it is not too high and not too low? Also, I believe I need to use a straight edge on the heal extension and make sure it aims for the breech (or am I aiming for something else)? Ugh.... I just know I'm going to screw this up.

 

[Zonie]

The extension on the top of the butt plate should be parallel with the comb of the stock at the rear.

When installed it will be flush with the top of the comb and look like a continuation of the wood surface.

The length of pull, measured from the shooting trigger should be to the area half way between the heel and the toe. With deeply curved butt plates this is usually the "lowest" area.

I usually make a paper pattern of the surfaces that will end up against the wood and use this as a guide for drawing the shape on the stock.

It usually takes several "drawings" before I'm sure both sides of the stock have marking that is right.

After getting the lines drawn I rough saw the shape to about 1/4" from the lines.
I also cheat a bit by using 2 inch diameter expanding drums with replaceable sandpaper cylinders in my electric drill to remove most of the material down to the drawn lines.

Once this is done I will locate the butt plate against the wood and draw the forward location of the 'return'. Once drawn I cut on this line down almost to the full depth that will be required to position the top of return flush with the comb. The final depth and location will be made with chisels.

After the cuts are at this stage I go to my double cut files and occasionally the 1/2" rubber expanding sanding drum in my Dremals flexable drive.

Check out this link for a bit more on installing a butt plate.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...d/15625/post/15625/hl/"bgunbut1"/fromsearch/1/

 

Thanks Zonie... well, I need about a 15 1/2" LOP, but that is about all that is left on the stock from where the trigger is...damn precarve... when I put the buttplate on there, with it's deep curve, it is well short of that. Not much I can do about that I guess.

Thanks for the tip of the drawings... That might help me quite a bit. I have been struggling getting this to allow me to trace it on the stock because both the buttplate and the stock are curved. If one of them is flat, that will help a ton. Off to find some cardboard and paper to make some templates.

 

[necchi]

I need about a 15 1/2" LOP,

:shocked2: Wow, Knuckle Dragger,,!(?)

when I put the buttplate on there, with it's deep curve, it is well short of that. Not much I can do about that I guess.

And this is where is get's dicey. Doing a custom build for yourself, there is nothing carved in stone that say's you have to use that Butt Plate, :idunno:

 

Knuckle dragger? You calling me an ape necchi? Lol... I don't think my arms are that long.

After I put this much effort into the buttplate, I'll keep it. This is a learning gun, so I know it won't be perfect.

 

[necchi]

Just teasin` :grin:
:v

 

Isn't 15" about standard?

 

[jdkerstetter]

No. It's not.

 

[jlynn]

13.5 to14 is pretty much average. measuring from mid index finger to crook of elbow is a rule that I have heard for years and it does NOT work for me as it comes out way too long. Please be careful and work tis out to fit you-easy to make pull length too long and hard to make it too short if within 13.5 to 14 unless your arms are unusually long. Trying to be of help--good luck. Ihave been measuring and cutting for 35 yrs and I amfive ten and use 13.5

 

Hmmm... must have been all those years of hanging from trees that made mine so long. Lol...

 

[Zonie]

Well, if the stock isn't long enough to give you the 15" pull you think you want, hoist the uncut blank with the barrel installed in it to your shoulder and get a feel for what you have now.

I'm betting that after doing this a few times you will come to the conclusion that it would feel better if it was a bit shorter than it currently is.

As a side note, my old Weatherby Vanguard VGD has a factory pull that is slightly less than 13.5 as is my Winchester '94.

Other lengths of pull are:
TC Hawken .54 = 14 1/4"
Pedersoli Tryon = 14 1/8"
Lyman GPR = 14 1/4"
H&R US Model 1873 Officers Trap Door = 13 1/8"
#4 Remington .22 cal Rolling Block = 13"

IMO, a rifle with a 15+" pull would be suitable for a VERY tall, very strong person, well over 6 feet tall.
Also to be considered is the fact that with a muzzleloader, the long barrel puts the weight waaaay out there so a shorter pull helps to reduce the perceived "muzzle heavy" feeling.

If I were building a rifle for someone who said he wanted a 15 1/2" length of pull I would insist that he would read an agreement stating the length of pull and he would pay me extra to shorten it at any time in the future. He would have to sign it before I would continue the build.

 

Well, I measured it to 14" lop last night and checked some of my other rifles, and that feels okay to me.

So I drew out a whole bunch of lines, made a template and laid it all out. I cut well short of all the lines, and left maybe 1/2" for the depth to get the heal extension to sit. Since this is domed though, so I need to angle the rest of the cut to allow the heel exrtension and the rails to meet the wood, or do I just want to allow it to rest on that cut? Since this is a pre-carve I worry that there will not be enough to support it.

 

[Birddog6]

Too short a LOP you can easily adapt to & you will snuggle it in.
Too long a LOP you will never adapt to. Every time you shoulder the rifle you will have to readjust to sight it.
Ya need to be sure on this.

Keith Lisle

 

I'm certain Keith, and hence why I made the initial cuts last night. All my other rifles are in the 14" range and they all fit nice, so that is fine with me. Maybe I was measuring my LOP on my arm to finger wrong... who knows.

Now back to the carving... should I make the dome that Buchele, et al mentions in their book or just rest the heel extension rails on the flat top? I worry about the thickness, but when I shape the butstock, I will shape off any excess anyhow... just curious to what is recommended by those who have done this many times.

Cheers... jvn

 

[mikemeteor]

should I make the dome that Buchele, et al mentions in their book or just rest the heel extension rails on the flat top?

I've done it both ways. the "dome" is more work, but it centers the return better IMHO, and it provides a more solid base to screw into.

Take an extra patience pill as you start your buttplate inlet.

/mm

 

This is a pain in the a$$. Wow...

 

[jdkerstetter]

Another thing about length of pull I haven't seen mentioned, guns with crescent shaped butts are usually regarded as bicep or arm mounted instead of shoulder mounted. Take this into account when mounting the rifle when checking to see if it "fits".

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[kaintuck]

SLOW DOWN!!!.....this is a hobby, enjoy your work, have a good time...

 

I have it rough shaped and it fits okay, but getting the darn buttplate with the deep crescent to fit is a real pain. Smoothing out all the ripples is going to be fun too. I'm going real slow with a file. I can see this taking some time.

 

[Birddog6]

Main Thing To Remember, and easily to get away from if not careful...........

Keep the Top of the buttplate Parallel with the comb ! If not, you will end up with it all inlet & satisfied & then look at it the next day & "Well sh$$...... I the buttplate top is tilted up or the down.... manure.. start all over.......

Been there done that a few times...... :shake:

Keith lisle