Blue or Brown???

[tx50cal]

I am building a plains style rifle in percussion. From what I understand this was the from the 1800-1830 time period. I like both browned and blued barrels, but which would be more correct for this time period? This is a plain rifle with only brass wedge plates and triggerguard, so I don't have to match too much furniture. Thanks for the help.
Rob

 

[Bountyhunter]

Percussion plains or plain rifles were 1830 or after, and in some areas 1840 or after, as percussion caps were not commonly available until that time. Hanson considered the era of the plains rifle from about 1830 to 1865. The definition of the plains rifle or "mountain rifle" is also generally considered to be those rifles made in St. Louis.

Some of the makers browned their rifles, and some blued them, so to be exact, you should consider who's rifles that you are trying to duplicate, and duplicate their ways. Otherwise, since the rifles in general were both blued and browned, you could make your rifle however it appeals to you.

Most of the plains or mountain rifles were iron trimmed. What kit are you doing? Brass would probably go better with blued barrel.

 

[tx50cal]

The rifle is a Pecatonica Hawken rifle. I will probably use Laural Mountain Forge Browning. It seem to wear great and is really a snap to use. I got a brass trigger guard and brass wedge plates, this is all of the furniture that I will be using.

 

No buttplate on a Hawken? That is curious. There is only one St. Louis Hawken that is known to have brass furniture and it is a cuty. It's a .50 caliber rifle with a 30" barrel that is about 1 1/4" across the flats. It is a late rifle from around 1860's or later. There is a black and white picture of it on the Hawken Shop site in their original Hawkens photo gallery. I handled this rifle back when Art Ressel owned the Hawken Shop in St. Louis. It is possibly a Gemmer Hawken although it is marked S. Hawken. Pretty cool short beefy rifle. Pretty plain grain maple but a beautiful study in Hawken architecture.
A blued barrel would be correct for a late Hawken.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

A while back a bunch of guys I was with were talking about building a Southern Mountain. Mention was made of building it w/o a buttplate. One of the guys said "if you do that you will always worry and wonder, not if but when you will break off a piece of the wood."
I have not since considered not using a Butt & toe plate. Their not that expensive or can be made, you might want to think on that a bit?

 

That's why it was a curiosity to me. I have never nor will I build a rifle without a BP or toe plate. You are right. They ain't that expensive and it's worth not having to worry about the butt a your rifle splitting or losing its toe. :thumbsup:

 

[tx50cal]

Oops, I forgot to mention the brass butplate and toeplate. Maybe blue would be better with all of that brass. What cold blue do you guys suggest? I have used the birchwood blue and the oxpho blue. I had better results with the birchwood, I think it was the super blue that I used. It worked ok, but this was on a Remington rust bucket shot gun that never stopped rusting until I used ceramic black high heat spray paint.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

If you really want a wood butt plate.
An alternative that I really doubt is PC can be seen on some REALLY high dollar shotguns.
That is a wooden butt plate(with grain oriented oppsite that of the stock) often with a metal skeleton surrounding it. And the wood checkered.
If I were to do that I would not glue it.

If ony the plate were damaged it could be easily replaced.

 

If you want to go with blue (good choice IMO) I would still use the LMF, just boil the parts before carding.

Cody

 

I don't WANT a wood buttplate. I like METAL buttplates. Either iron or brass depending on what is appropriate for the rifle being built.
There was a small bit of confusion because no BP was listed in the original poster's list of parts. His parts, not mine. He has clarified by saying," Oops!!! I forgot the buttplate and toe plate". That takes care of it. The original poster IS using a buttplate and toe plate. :thumbsup:
Now, back to bluing and browning. :grin:

 

I'd recommend using a cold rust blue, this was the type blue most likely used on the originals of that period - you can get a kit and instructions from Brownell's - it;s basically browning the parts and then boiling them in distilled water - the boiling changes the brown from of the oxide to the blue/black form.....

As for brass mounted original Hawkens - there are at least four I know of: the one Cooner mentioned, a big brute of a rifle once owned by Bill Fuller pictured in one of Baird's books, and a couple in the Buffalo Bill Historical Center - I've got pictures of the last two some where but will have to find them.

 

[tg]

I put a toe plate on a plane Jane smoothrife circa 1790-1800 no buttplate, nose cap, or entry thimble, originals were made like that so I figured if they did not worry about breaking the would I wouldn't either?