A few tips on using beeswax and or a beeswax mixture as a gun stock finish.
First, you heat the beeswax in either a double boiler (original method) or in a PYREX or other microwave safe container in a microwave oven.
I got a large block of beeswax from a beekeeper some time ago. It had all sorts of "refuse stuff" in it. I broke off chunks and heated them in a Pyrex Glass measuring cup. Run it on high for NO MORE THAN about a minute at a time and do that multiple times until the wax melts. May take two or three one minute melts or more, depending on how much wax you are melting. Then dip out the refuse/dross/impurities with a teaspoon. Of course you can pay more for clean beeswax and don't have to do that.
Please, PLEASE DON'T add turpentine or other solvents to the wax and put it in the microwave to melt. VERY DANGEROUS FIRE HAZARD!!!!! Mix turpentine in only AFTER the wax is already melted and then whatever oil you are going to use. BTW, "Turpenol" and other turpentine substitutes do NOT work well as a solvent. Easy to get real turpentine in a hardware store by the pint or quart.
The formula ratio used for many years by National Match Shooters was beeswax, turpentine, BLO in a 1:1:1 ratio by volume. HOWEVER, I carefully measured using tablespoons and that ratio turned out very "goopy." The stuff looked like something that came out from the under side of a jaundice infected bull.
BTW, I would NOT use the common BLO you find in hardware stores. Artist Grade BLO is a little more difficult to find, if you really must use any BLO, but you can find it in many craft/artist stores and is much purer with no petroleum or other distillates in it. Personally I would use REAL/PURE Tung Oil or one of the polymerized oils available today, after using even the Artist Grade BLO and being a bit disappointed by it.
I settled on a ratio of Two parts Beeswax, ONE part oil and One Part Turpentine. If it is still a bit too goopy, set it aside for a few days until it stiffens up a little, before use. For each "part," I'd suggest one teaspoon as that will cover most stocks when the mixture is made, though at most a tablespoon for each part will be sure to cover any long rifle stock and you will have some left over.
I agree with Eric on using the Heat Gun after rubbing in the mixture on the stock and hard rubbing off the excess.
One word of caution IF you use modern stains to stain before using beeswax or a beeswax mixture. When you scratch or abrade the surface of the wood, you have to STRIP off all the old finish before repairing the surface. Not a problem if you don't stain the wood before using the wax, though.
Gus