Barrel Rib And Ram Rod Pipes

[Pete G]

You are correct. I got off track thinking about the last rib I installed.

Soldering is the way to go for the oct. to round barrel.

 

[Onojutta]

We always call it silver solder, but I have yet to find a product on the market called silver solder.

at the store I picked this up at, this was twice as expensive as the "silver bearing" solder of the same weight and brand which was more expensive as the common 60/40 of also the same weight and brand. All three were manufactured in the USA at their plant in Ft. Wayne, Indiana. There needs to be a higher silver content to be called silver solder instead of silver bearing:

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Does it give the percentage of Ag on the back of the can?

 

[Rifleman1776]

Some low temp solders contain about 6% silver and are inappropriately called silver solder by a lot of unknowledgeable people.
There are different classes of real silver solder and the lowest melting high temp silver solder melts at 1207° F. That is never used for any work on barrels because any heat above or at a red heat will warp or choke a barrel.
The low temp solders that contain silver will melt and flow around 450 to 500 °F
A good low temp paste solder melts and flows around 450°F They are very strong and simple to use with little or no cleanup.

I had a coil of low temp silver solder from Sears Roebuck that I used for years. Easy to use and very strong. Can't find anymore. I guess it was dropped when they killed off ole Roebuck.

 

[jerrywh]

Ace hardware sells low temp 6% silver solder in my town. It is not paste type. I like the paste because there is no need to tin with it prior to soldering.
Paste solder is not cheap but a jar of it will last 10 years.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I am presently building a Track of the Wolf/ Rifle Shoppe Harper's Ferry rifle. I am working with a builder, actually several, who has more than passing experience connecting an under rib to a barrel. The common consensus was that we didn't have the proper jigs to locate and hold the under rib in place while we soldered the rib on. Our solution was to make five machine fasteners to attach the rib to the barrel. Using a vertical mill to measure the depth and very fine threaded fasteners that we made up, we attached the rib to the barrel. I wanted to hollow out the under rib to reduce weight, but the lack of secure jigs prevented that from being done.

 

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

Does it give the percentage of Ag on the back of the can?

sorry. no. just the generic cas registration number for silver, the other metals in it, and a disclaimer about how it is generally a bad idea to inhale it or pour it on your skin.

 

[gunmaker43]

on round bbl. I screw pipes to rib, and solder rib to bbl. with Alpha paste from ACE hardware.
Hold rib assmbl'y to bbl. with 4 or 5 twists of iron safety wire.
I've had the best luck with Alpha, and a hammer won't knock the pipes off. well you can if you use a 2 lb. hammer....Tom

 

[jerrywh]

First solder the pipes to the rib. Then place aluminum rod through the pipes just as the ram rod would go through. Then place the assembly on the barrel and hold in place with hose stainless clamps placed around the aluminum rod and the barrel assembly. Heat the barrel from the bottom side until the solder melts. While still hot wipe off any excess solder with a damp cotton rag and let cool naturally. Plane and simple. No drilling, no machinery required. Paste solder does not require any pre tinning. With the wire solder you have to tin before hand and it takes a lot longer heating period.

 

[Scota4570]

I avoid silver bearing solder. It is harder to use and has no advantages. It is for plumbing. Regular old lead solder 60/40 works great.

Tin your parts using regular solder paste with a steel wool q-tip. Get a little bit of solder on the steel wool with some flux. Smear flux on the part. You must clean it to bright bare metal first. Anyway heat the part and apply the solder with the applicator. If some place is resistant, scrub with the applicator. When completely fluxed, let it cool. Repeat for all the parts to be joined. Wash off the nasty acid flux.

Coat the tinned surfaces with rosin flux liquid Electronic supply places have it. Jig everything up with wire and a steel ram rod substitute. Heat the barrel, rib an pipes all at once. I use one torch in each hand. The solder will met and everything will be stick together. This is how shotgun ribs are done.

I have used rivets for strength attachment. Only as a guide. I use super glue to temporarily attach the rib and drill the rivet holes (mine are actually guide posts) in both parts at the same time.

 

[Donny]

For the record... I admit, I drilled a screw hole into the bbl cavity. rats. I had used a drill stop, but it slipped. Fortunately it was a Dixie bbl, $50.00 way back then, not a more pricey one. I ended up with a usable but shorter rifle bbl and a pistol bbl out of the deal. I do not trust drill stops..

 

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

I do not trust drill stops..

neither do I. a trick I was shown is to tape off a bit for depth :hatsoff:

 

[Scota4570]

I would not use a drill press. I have a milling machine for precision depth holes.

In my previous post I meant to say, regarding rivets ...not for strength, but only as a guide.

Sorry