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Barrel finishing service.

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Henry2357

40 Cal.
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Messages
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Location
Colonie, NY
Are there places you can send your barrel to to have them browned? I don’t mind staining and finishing my stock, but want the barrel done properly and I’m not sure I can. Thanks, joe
 
Joe:
If you can handle the stock, the barrel should be a breeze. I used Laurel Mountain Forge Browning Solution and it was my first time browning a barrel and it turned out about as perfect as you would expect. I've now browned two barrels and one tomahawk head and each one exceeded my expectations, and I still have over half of the original bottle left. Before, I didn't know anything about browning, but now I know more than I did. My tool and die maker was surprised at how well the barrels turned out.
 
My wife browned the barrel on her rifle and it came out about as good as one could ever ask for. She followed the instructions on the bottle, put it in the spare bathroom for a couple of days and closed the door. She had no experience with anything like that and watching her do it I was left with the impression that it isn't any more difficult to do than applying cold blue.
 
One of the mistakes , not to make , is don't leave the barrel in a damp humid environment for more than 12 hrs. , with solution on it. The browning could go into overdrive , and pit. Been there , done that. After the 8th hour ,keep an eye on the process. Follow the directions on the bottle to stop the browning . To completely put the brakes on the process , once the desired texture and color is reached , apply some gunstock finish to the barrel , and once that's cured, a coat of furniture wax , won't hurt.................oldwood
 
If your into special effects , allow the browning solution to put a slight brown on the barrel, then put cold blue over the initial coat of rust. That gives a darker rust look of some old original rifles. Don't forget to stop the process like the instructions say ,heat the barrel w/heat gun ,(hair dryer) , and put a coat of stock finish on the barrel to stop any further rusting. Always test your process on a separate piece of steel. .......oldwood
 
Well, sounds like I will be a browning. Thanks all, gonna do it.
Anticipating the only "trouble" you'll have: buying more barrels to experiment with other finishes! ;-)
Look into "cold water carding" to investigate another way to remove rust without removing your finish - it's done before you heat and oil the barrel. The key is to use a soft cloth and to be gentle as you "card".
 
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Make sure you have a spotless barrel! I use acetone to clean a barrel, It works for me I also use a heat gun to warm up the barrel before use my solution. My barrels come out as near perfectly browned as any other ones I have seen. It is easy if you just follow the direction on the container.
 
Thanks all for the advice. Going to use the Laurel Mountain, I see on their website they have comprehensive instructions I’m sure I’ll read 10 more times. lol.
 
I second using acetone be fore browning/bluing. its all I use, any more.

Dave
You use acetone with the Laurel Mountain Forge Browner and Degreaser? Its not like I didn't have any acetone available, I used Laurel Mountain Forge minus any acetone and achieved perfect results.
 
You use acetone with the Laurel Mountain Forge Browner and Degreaser? Its not like I didn't have any acetone available, I used Laurel Mountain Forge minus any acetone and achieved perfect results.
The way you prep a barrel doesn't matter as long as you clean it well. Acetone is relatively cheap and has multiple uses. I always have some on hand so why purchase anything else?
 
The way you prep a barrel doesn't matter as long as you clean it well. Acetone is relatively cheap and has multiple uses. I always have some on hand so why purchase anything else?
I understand that acetone is cheap, I buy it by the 5 gallon kegs for use in degreasing hardened grease and oil prior to Parkerizing parts here at my shop, and we go through quite a bit of it. My question was, unless you have a barrel that has been contaminated with lacquer or wax, acetone really isn't necessary when using Laurel Mountain Forge "Browner and Degreaser", because that's the whole point of having the degreaser in the solution. It preps/degreases the barrel as you apply the browning solution. All I'm saying is, when using this particular product I don't find an additional application of a degreaser necessary.
 
I understand that acetone is cheap, I buy it by the 5 gallon kegs for use in degreasing hardened grease and oil prior to Parkerizing parts here at my shop, and we go through quite a bit of it. My question was, unless you have a barrel that has been contaminated with lacquer or wax, acetone really isn't necessary when using Laurel Mountain Forge "Browner and Degreaser", because that's the whole point of having the degreaser in the solution. It preps/degreases the barrel as you apply the browning solution. All I'm saying is, when using this particular product I don't find an additional application of a degreaser necessary.
I know nothing about the product? I am somewhat leary of any multi_functional product but I am relatively sure it would work if the company states in the directions you can do it? I am from the old school,"if it aint broke don't fix it" !
 
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