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Barrel Browning Agent

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BJC

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http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/388/1

This page at Track of the Wolf has about 4 or five different barrel browning agents.

Which is best and easiest to use for a first timer?

There is the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown Barrel Finish.
There is the LMF Brown.
There is the Mark Lee Brown.
There is the Track Brown
and then there is the Track's Own Aquafortis and Barrel Browning Solutions. Is this a good stain for unstained wood?

What is going to give me the best traditional barrel brown.

Is just the barrel browned or is the other hardware also brown stained?

Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well the LMF Browning solution instructions are in the stickies on the top of this section.
None of the others are,, :hmm:
 
I have only used BC Plum Brown on smaller parts, but not on a barrel.

It was a long time ago so I forget some of the steps involved. For what it did brown it looked fair, but I had other parts that gave trouble and I had to neutralize the process and clean up the metal again.

For most a traditional brown, I suppose a sweat box would be needed and it would take some time I would imagine.
 
After looking at some of those other products and reading the accompanying PDFs the Track brown looks to be the easiest to use.

I stand corrected, the LMF looks a bit easier to use but results will probably look different than types of browning reagents.
 
I sure hope it's the LMF, 'cause I just ordered a bunch and I've never done this before and I'd hate to mess up ... also, I am given to understand that you can get a sort - of 'blue' if you scald the barrel ... I have a pistol barrel I'd try that on ... worst case it's a no-go and I just go back to bare metal and start again.

any thoughts? first hand experience?
 
Really I have not seen the results of the LMF, but I have seen the results of Birchwood Casey Plum brown because as I stated I have used it.

I remember having to heat parts evenly after a few other steps.

I do have a kit pistol barrel that has been browned by someone else to compare it though, and the results on the small parts I have browned with BC Plum brown are similar.

The steps for the BC and the steps for the Track brown look very similar, so I am figuring the results might look similar.

Many years back my father had done re-bluing barrels and did not use a cold blue, a comparison of barrels done with a quick job of cold blue compared to traditional bluing there is a definite difference in how they look.

Maybe I am wrong, but I would just assume the quicker easier way would look different from more traditional methods.
 
I have had good results browning parts by simple degreasing them and putting them in Coca-cola. Yea things go better with coke! :idunno:
 
I only use LMF and Homer Dangler's browning(don't know if HD is still available.) LMF is very easy to use, just don't "slop" it on. Several thin coats, following directions, will get you a very nice brown. Don't have to have a sweat box for it to work, even in CO. It works faster if you have one though. Good luck with your project. :thumbsup:
Ed
 
I have used a couple of those plus homemade Aqua fortis, in addition bleach and H2O.
 
Cold Browns are much more durable. The brown is IN the metal, not on the surface.
I've used several cold Browns, but to me, LMF is the most consistent, and easiest to use. You can get a smooth, fine grain, almost purple brown, to a rough, almost leather grained, red chocolate brown color and any thing in between.
Like any chemical reaction, it can be controlled with moisture and temperature.
Hope this helps.
 
First barrel I ever browned I used LMF. It came out looking really nice! I was then using the LMF on a buttplate and lock and ended up knocking the bottle over and spilling out what was left. I looked on Tracks to order some more. I then saw Tracks own brand and ordered it because it was a little cheaper than LMF. I was not happy with Tracks browning solution. Seemed to take many applications to achieve desired results. I then reordered some more LMF and have browned some more barrels since then. I like LMF and from my experience using the stuff, it takes fewer applications to achieve desired results. My vote goes to LMF. Respectfully, cowboys1062.
 
I have always used Waukon Bay browning solution and even though I have still plenty on hand recently tried LMF on a Browning Mtn rifle refinish project.

LMF and Waukon Bay I would say perform the same. They are both good, and do a good job.

I quit flushing with hot water with the LMF product after a few sessions. Waukon's process does not call for the hot water flush, and I was not sure it was helping with the LMF.

Fleener
 
Ditto on waukon bay brown. The other day I was at local steel yard picking up some steel for another project, and they do a lot of ornamental iron work, fences, gates etc, and have the fancy hinges, scroll work pieces made up. Well they have a big selection of liquid metal "Tarnishes" and a pic display of results on steel, copper brass etc.
As this stuff is made for outside metalwork I'm thinkin--barrel/parts brown, or pewter ???
I'll be trying it on some scraps. Tom
 
I went ahead and ordered the LMF from TOTW and I am hoping it will be here sometime this week.

Will 2.5 ounces be enough to do the barrel properly and will it be enough to do the butt plate if I want?

Now I just need to order the stock I want from Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply and I think I will be off to a good start.
 
FYI - Homer Dangler's browning solution is still available (it's what I use and prefer). Jim Klein at jklongrifles is distributing it now, but I picked up my last bottle from the Long Cabin Shop so they have it too.
 
fwiw, I think Dick Greensides' stocks are the cat's meow ... used one for a Southern Mountain rifle which is now my favorite gun ... one 'atta boy' for Pecatonica
 
Of all you guys that have browned your barrels.Did you all start with blued barrels or did you all have some bare barrels to start?
 
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