2 KIBLER SMR FINISHING QUESTIONS

[Icemanxxxv]

First question: what to do with the small flat that runs down the barrel chanel; leave it flat, or taper it to the barrel?

Second Question: more asking opinions here; lock plate installed finished as is or sanded, polished and finished?

 

[Scota@4570]

https://www.youtube.com/@kiblerjim

 

[TDM]

Would also recommend watching all of Jim’s videos so that you get the info straight from the horse’s mouth. But with that being said the barrel channel is just fine as is. And how you finish the lock exterior is up to personal discretion. Most do some sanding, personally I do a full disassembly and work all parts to a full polish before applying a finish, it’s not necessary but it’s what I prefer to do. Best of luck.

 

[Icemanxxxv]

Thanks guys for the direction!

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

I cheat a bit on the lock. It and the side plate get filed, sanded, and polished. I also polish the innards of the lock.

Then I send the assembled lock to a friend who is an engraver, along with other nasty habits. He softens the frizzen, engraves it, than re-hardens it. You can see the spark from several miles away on a dark, foggy night...

He engraves the rest of the lock (well, not the innards!), re-assembles it, and returns it to me.

 

[wiscoaster]

....

Second Question: more asking opinions here; lock plate installed finished as is or sanded, polished and finished?

That's one of those "do whatever you want to do" decisions. I sanded and polished mine, then I "patinaed" it with JAX Black (along with all the other iron-mounted hardware) and it turned out real nice, just like I wanted.

 

[Kmcmichael]

I prefer rust blue.

 

[Scota@4570]

On cast mass market locks I do polish and tune the innerds. On a Kibler CNC lock it is perfect as made, do not touch anything inside.

I remove all signs of casting or machine work on the outside of any lock. The final step is to blend all the tool marks with maroon scotchbrite. Then depending on the gun I may brown it or leave it bright. I have done Kibler SMR's both ways. to add a variation you can boil the browned lock parts and turn the black. I did several with various cold blues too.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Where the wood meets the barrel in front of the lock panel; not a knife edge but about a 1/16" tiny flat at the barrel.

My SMR had a Chambers lock, I polished it inside and out. I have a Kibler CNC lock for my bear pistol project, I am going to brown the lock, it doesn't look like it will need anything else.

 

[Pete G]

Most original locks were polished and left bright.

 

[EC121]

Here's the lock from my Woodsrunner. It had milling marks and casting parting lines. You don't want to see the parting lines on a historically forged lock. A little clean up is good for most locks. I used a Kratex wheel to polish out the lines on the hardened frizzen. The brass black will wear off with use.

 

[BR Sorenson]

The SMR lock minimal clean up. If I remember correctly. Parting lines on the cock. I couldn't do much with them on the frizzen. A little Sanding on the face.
ENGLISH ROUND FACE. On the woodsrunner and Colonial. Jim recommends removing machining marks. Thats all over the face of the lock. And treatment after that is your choice.