1803 Harpers Ferry lock question

[TommyKid]

I just picked up a replacement Davis lock for my repro 1803 Harpers Ferry flinter. I believe the originals were in the white? I wanted some advise on removing the dull, gray finish.....can I assume varying grades of emory cloth to polish?
Thanks,
Tom

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Yup,
I start with fine cut needle files and then progress to various grades of the wet/dry backed by a junk file to maintain my lines and not dish the screw holes.

I start with 220 grit and finish at 400 grit.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

I hope you do know that if this is a replacement for an Italian repop the Davis lock will not fit the inlet.

 

[TommyKid]

I hope you do know that if this is a replacement for an Italian repop the Davis lock will not fit the inlet.

Yes, it is for an Italian repro and yes, I'm aware I'm going to need to do some inletting. I brought the gun with me to see if it would even be a possibility and it looked do-able...the new lock face covered up the existing inletting. Now, with that said, we'll see how it goes when I actually try and fit it :wink:
Tom

 

[Steve Blancard]

What brand italian musket are you putting this lock into? Please post pics of your progress and the end result. Thanks!

 

[jeep44]

Please write a follow-up-I have a Navy Arms 1803 that I have been considering doing the same lock replacement.

 

[Rifleman1776]

IMHO, you would be better served by leaving it alone. Sanding or filing could remove the shallow engraving. And, the color may be a product of the type of steel used in casting. There is a possibility it could revert to the gray even if you sanded white. Or, get it chromed.

 

[LRB]

Looks like a pretty smooth casting. I don't think sanding would be a problem. Unless over done. It will not go back to gray once sanded bright.

 

[matt denison]

The dull grey color you are seeing is the result of having been bead blasted to remove the slag from the casting process. Looking closely you can see there are parting lines behind the frizz. spring that should be filed off and then the whole lock CAREFULLY sanded/polished. Don't neglect the inside of the plate too. To be absolutely correct it should then be color case hardened (look at the lock that came on the gun) or at least left "bright", same as "white". If you want some color with less fuss try a cold blue.

Please follow up and let us know how this project works out. I'm sure there is some interest in replacing those X*x*X (censored) locks on the imported '03 H.F. guns.

 

[satwel]

I'm not 100% positive on this, but I believe the lock plate, cock and topjaw were color case hardened when they left the armory.

 

[Ken Cormier]

In the 70's I had a navy arms 1803 back then no replacement locks. One day at a shoot it performed so well I traded it for a cva kentucky percussin kit. I really hope this works for you. I did like the way the gun looked. Good luck

 

[nit wit]

I just put a Davis in my Navy arms.I put the davis in and traced around the rear of the lock,thr front fit fine. I had to remove wood for the piece that contacts the trigger and grindoff 1/4" off the top of the trigger. Some might say it looks like I used a hatchet! It works fine and the moose deer and bear will never know.
Nit Wit

 

[Dphar]

I just picked up a replacement Davis lock for my repro 1803 Harpers Ferry flinter. I believe the originals were in the white? I wanted some advise on removing the dull, gray finish.....can I assume varying grades of emory cloth to polish?
Thanks,
Tom

Get some 1/4" plexiglas and some double stick carpet tape. Cut the plexiglas to about 1/4" narrower than the tape.
Totally disassemble the lock. Stick some 150 grit wet or dry to the plexi-glas and go to work. It its so messed up 150 is too much work use 120 grit belt sander belts and tear to width and length and stick them the plastic.
You will invariably cut through the paper on a file and scar the job. The plexiglas and tape also make for a much cleaner job since its nice and flat so long as its not flexed.
Smooth steel or aluminum can be used as backers in the same manner.

Might have to used round files then small rubber hose like fuel line or heater hose to back the paper on some contours especially on the cock and frizzen.
Round or 1/2 round needle files and small chainsaw files work well.

Dan