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fishleclair

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Hello all, New to the forum.....

I picked up a nice little double barrel .410 and just wondering how much powder I should stick in to start. Only thing I could find on the WW Web is to do equal parts of powder to shot. Ill be running #3 and #6 shot mixed. Also trying to find wads for it. Not to many shops in my parts that accommodate BP Shooters.

THX in advance
 
Hello all, New to the forum.....

I picked up a nice little double barrel .410 and just wondering how much powder I should stick in to start. Only thing I could find on the WW Web is to do equal parts of powder to shot. Ill be running #3 and #6 shot mixed. Also trying to find wads for it. Not to many shops in my parts that accommodate BP Shooters.

THX in advance
Flintlock inc out of indiana sells a nice pre package set of 100 over powder, wads, over shot wads made up. Think they have a website now. RMC also sells the wads you need. Totw and dixie come to mind as well. Check the stickies here, 2nd page in the how to section, plus first page has a smoothbore load by claude pdf file for use and i think 3/4 oz is 50 grains of bp equal parts.
 
You may be able to find a 7/16" (0.435") wad punch to make your own wads and cards. Cereal boxes and the waxy 1/2 gallon milk containers make very good over powder and over shot cards.

Maybe a trip to Harbor Freight to get one of their cheap set of punches.

Be aware that the measurements of powder are measured by volume, not weight. And a volume black powder measure set for 50 grains will throw 3/4 ounces of shot.
 
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A 7/16 punch works great from harbor freight for making wads. You can also try using reloading shotcups. That's what I always used since I load for 410 anyway.
35 grains of powder and a shotcup full of shot works nicely. I've killed rabbit, squirrel, and grouse with it.
One thing you want to look out for though with a double barrel is that the recoil from one shot doesn't loosen the shot in the other barrel.
 
No cushion wad. Maybe a lubed felt wad. Generally most folks now avoid the heavy lubed "cushion wad" under the shot. There have been reports of improved patterns putting the heavily lubed cushion wad, over, the shot, still with an over shot card separating the shot from the wad.
 
Watched a You Tube video of a guy who made his own shot wads with paper and mask tape so Ill whip some of them up, as for the over shot he used hornets nest and seemed to work well, I think he even used it as the shot wad as well. Some things to play around with so this all the info above helps me on the quest, Heading out Thursday to send some shot down range at rabbits. going to use #4 shot first up I think and carry some #6 if I can find any old 12 gauge shot gun shells to pull some shot from.
 
Watched a You Tube video of a guy who made his own shot wads with paper and mask tape so Ill whip some of them up, as for the over shot he used hornets nest and seemed to work well, I think he even used it as the shot wad as well. Some things to play around with so this all the info above helps me on the quest, Heading out Thursday to send some shot down range at rabbits. going to use #4 shot first up I think and carry some #6 if I can find any old 12 gauge shot gun shells to pull some shot from.

My friends at Ramshackle Homestead:
 
Ill be running #3 and #6 shot mixed.

I'm curious as to why you're using a "duplex" load of shot?

The SxS was one of the most popular shotgun styles for more than one and a half centuries for a good reason. :thumb: (I own four btw, one caplock 20 gauge and the rest are modern)

If #6 is heavy enough for what you're hunting, then ¾ of an ounce will give you a better pattern, farther.

IF the #6 isn't going to get the job done, then I'd say ¾ ounce of #3 will up your odds for a clean harvest rather than a 50/50 mix of #3 and #6 which halves your #3 sized shot quantity....

I'd say load one barrel with the #3 and the other with #6. THAT's the whole advantage of a SxS. :D

Often the procedure is to load the barrel which works off the forward trigger with the smaller shot, as that's the trigger that's quickly acquired when you flush game close. Sometimes really close, and if you hit that bird with a ¾ ounce load,from a duplex load, your reward may be a pile of bloody feathers. :confused: If an unwary squirrel is about and you somehow get right on top of it, or a bunny freezes too long and you get very close...if either happens and you go for the quick shot when either flushes...., well at that distance a load of #6 alone will do fine. :thumb:

The barrel that fires from the aft trigger if you load it with #3 and you see a squirrel or rabbit at a distance, you should have the time to move your finger to the aft trigger..., or to try to creep a bit closer and then select the aft trigger (but even so you're not going to be nearly as close as you'd be when flushing a bird, eh?). So at the farther distance, you're delivering less pellets on the game.... BUT...the #3 is just a tad less than 50% heavier than the #6, so require less hits to harvest that squirrel which was foraging, or that rabbit that thought you couldn't see him at a distance and as you crept closer and the rabbit thought to pretend to be a fuzzy rock. ;)

LD
 
I use #2 in my 12 gauge pump and #4 when using my modern .410.

As for the Mix in the BP is so I can kinda see what does what and how well it goes, or run one barrel #3 and the other #6. I've used loads with mixed shot for geese/ ducks and liked it, took out the distance guess work, If it was close then the smaller shot worked well, if it was far the bigger shot took em down.

My saying always goes for guys trying to figure out shot for hunting is
"Ill stand 10' away from you with a hand full of pebbles, You stand 10' away from me with a hand full of sand, We both get to throw our hand fulls at each other, who do you think is going to get hurt"

First time running a BP Smooth bore and
 
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