• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Tow

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I always have rust. Must be the climate? I live in Texas. I pour a "gill" of close-to-boiling water down the barrel and let it sit for a bit. Then I slosh it around and pour it out. Then I scrub up and down with a couple "figure 8s" of flax tow. I set the dirtier ones aside to dry out and add to my tinder box. Then I run a dry patch or two down the bore, and then finally an oiled patch.

A gill is only 4 ounces, that's not enough water to remove the salts and you didn't mention any rinsing. Also, near boiling water is too hot unless your cleaning in below freezing weather. And don't let water sit in the barrel. Water is a solvent, but its also a reagent turning salts into acids.
A tiny bit of soap (like Murphey's) added to the water will aid in cleaning and help adjust the PH.
I always use alcohol to aid in drying.

For rust prevention I use an aerosol product for coverage. Usually G96 .
 
One gun should take you 10-15 minutes AT MOST to clean. Clean with water, dry and grease - done...
Historical-clipped.jpg
 
I grow flax (blue and crimson) in my yard, its a hearty perennial looks nice and keeps the bunnies and squirrels away because its like a natural barbed wire. At the end of the season I cut and let it dry in a paper bag, it yields enough to get me through the fall. For use you'll need to smash it out and hand roll it for use. I form it into tiny balls.

Nick
Good one Nick! Well done!
Historical-clipped.jpg
Keith.
 
Thank you gentlemen. Lots of recommendations to ponder. Jas. Townshend & Sons used to sell a bag of flax tow, but it was all combed and fancy.
I have a friend who is a master weaver, and she gave me a lot of her unused flax tow from her spinning flax thread.

I should start another post I think about salvaging an abused, long-neglected smooth-bore? If so, then the moderators can move this or take it down...

I just acquired a second hand flintlock musket. A guy sold it on consignment. The consignee must have been a French and Indian War re-enactor. He started with a "Charlersoli Mle. 1766 leger" and modified the stock, stock fittings, cock, and sling attachments to make it resemble a Mle. 1728/46 for Seven Years' War impressions or whatever.

I acquired the musket from the seller in completely uncleaned condition, although externally it looked "just like in the pictures." I used the alcohol as drying step on the battery/steel/hammer, cleaned the flint, adjusted it in the cock, swept out the pan, but then discovered that the bore had been long neglected.

It was so bad, I started first with 12-ga. cotton patches with a tight fitting jag and Windex. Eventually, after pulling lots of filth and fouling and rusty crud, I switched to a Simple Green solution. I then decided to flush out the fouling with H20. So I used a bunch of hot water (I'll try normal "room temperature water" like some of you all do...)

I flushed the barrel with hot water until the rusty water was at the very end, while the initial pour off was clear (I'm sure the rust sank). Then I got some copper wool and cut it to patch-sized lengths and scrubbed the interior of the bore. The idea was to scrub out any active rust. The jag is so tight, however, that only a few strands of the copper wool actually contacted the barrel, I think. At any rate, I then ran several dry patches down the bore. After that, I used some WD-40 followed by additional dry patches. Finally, I put some petro-chemical modern gun oil in the bore, and stored it muzzle down while I tried to sleep. This morning, I gave it a treatment of oiled patch, J-B bore paste, oiled patch, J-B bore past, oiled patch, several dry patches. There are still orange/brownish "rings" on the patches, but the sheer volume of junk is greatly diminished from the initial Windex patches yesterday...

Obviously, the bore is toast. Still, it is a smooth-bore, so my hope is that it will not be as big a deal. What concerns me is whether there might be pits that could retain fouling such that smouldering junk could cause a safety issue when a new charge is poured down the barrel (seen that happen).
 
I have some of that flax fiber from Track and was trying to clean with it tonight. Do you reuse that stuff by rinsing it out or just use fresh and new? I like the concept of using it because it really seems like it will clean my breech face and get into the grooves better than a patch....course, then again I'm still paranoid that I'm not getting my gun clean and spending an hour shooting and 2 hours cleaning still..LOL! The wife started making Christmas cookies with the grandkids the same time I started cleaning my flintlock and she was cleaning up before I was done putting everything back in my cabinet! Guess maybe I should get a bore scope or whatever ya use to just look down there and see for myself that it is clean and theres no water hiding out waiting to rust my barrel..ha ha!

Thanks,

Dan
For me it's cool water (hot water causes flash rust) until the patches come out clean, then dry the bore with a couple more patches, then 91% alcohol, then gun oil, then forget it till I get another chance to shoot.
 
Thank you gentlemen. Lots of recommendations to ponder. Jas. Townshend & Sons used to sell a bag of flax tow, but it was all combed and fancy.
I have a friend who is a master weaver, and she gave me a lot of her unused flax tow from her spinning flax thread.

I should start another post I think about salvaging an abused, long-neglected smooth-bore? If so, then the moderators can move this or take it down...

I just acquired a second hand flintlock musket. A guy sold it on consignment. The consignee must have been a French and Indian War re-enactor. He started with a "Charlersoli Mle. 1766 leger" and modified the stock, stock fittings, cock, and sling attachments to make it resemble a Mle. 1728/46 for Seven Years' War impressions or whatever.

I acquired the musket from the seller in completely uncleaned condition, although externally it looked "just like in the pictures." I used the alcohol as drying step on the battery/steel/hammer, cleaned the flint, adjusted it in the cock, swept out the pan, but then discovered that the bore had been long neglected.

It was so bad, I started first with 12-ga. cotton patches with a tight fitting jag and Windex. Eventually, after pulling lots of filth and fouling and rusty crud, I switched to a Simple Green solution. I then decided to flush out the fouling with H20. So I used a bunch of hot water (I'll try normal "room temperature water" like some of you all do...)

I flushed the barrel with hot water until the rusty water was at the very end, while the initial pour off was clear (I'm sure the rust sank). Then I got some copper wool and cut it to patch-sized lengths and scrubbed the interior of the bore. The idea was to scrub out any active rust. The jag is so tight, however, that only a few strands of the copper wool actually contacted the barrel, I think. At any rate, I then ran several dry patches down the bore. After that, I used some WD-40 followed by additional dry patches. Finally, I put some petro-chemical modern gun oil in the bore, and stored it muzzle down while I tried to sleep. This morning, I gave it a treatment of oiled patch, J-B bore paste, oiled patch, J-B bore past, oiled patch, several dry patches. There are still orange/brownish "rings" on the patches, but the sheer volume of junk is greatly diminished from the initial Windex patches yesterday...

Obviously, the bore is toast. Still, it is a smooth-bore, so my hope is that it will not be as big a deal. What concerns me is whether there might be pits that could retain fouling such that smouldering junk could cause a safety issue when a new charge is poured down the barrel (seen that happen).
I may be going for the gold medal in the crazy event but, when going for an aged look on the barrel and lock I first rusted everything. Then applied 44/40 instant blue and rubbed it back to my liking with steel wool. Now I just clean and oil. No rust. Of course this won't do anything about the pits but might help get rid of the rust.
 
How much flax fiber comes in a package from Track?
I guess Track Of the Wolf doesn't have it. I couldn't find it there either. Townsend's does, however have it for sale at $5.50 for a 4 oz. bag. Four ounces of tow is a fairly large amount.
 
Turkey Foot Trading sells 4 oz. of hemp tow for $4.00 here. I haven't tried it for cleaning yet, but it worked great for tinder when starting a fire with flint, steel, and char cloth.
 
Back
Top