From Pecatonica? Just ordered one for my T/C Hawken. Looking for suggestions from anyone who may have done a retofit with one of these.
It may give me some insight for any pitfalls.
Thanks
SM
It may give me some insight for any pitfalls.
Thanks
SM
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Has anyone used stocks....
- Thread starter sussexmuzllodr
- Start date
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I restocked my TC Hawken with a Pecatonica River stock years ago.
It isn't a "drop in" project and there is some work that has to be done to get everything to fit. Much of it is minor trimming that can be done with an Exacto knife (Hobby knife with a pointed razor sharp blade), but as I recall, I also had to remove a little wood at the rear of the barrel channel to remove the radius that was left by the cutter that formed it.
When you use the hobby knife on the lock mortise, place the lock into the cavity as good as you can and keep the blade against the metal edge, using the lock as a guide while you press the pointed blade into the wood. It can take several passes around the lock to get the mortise enlarged so the lock plate can fit down into it. Also, it is a good idea to use some sandpaper to dull up the rear of the blade next to the handle. If you don't you might find your finger has slipped forward onto the blade. You won't know it at the time but soon you will see red spots of blood appearing on the wood.
Here is a link to a topic that is talking about the Pecatonica River stock for the Hawken. I made several posts in it and you might want to read them.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/pecatonica-stock-on-renegade.64102/#post-778253
It isn't a "drop in" project and there is some work that has to be done to get everything to fit. Much of it is minor trimming that can be done with an Exacto knife (Hobby knife with a pointed razor sharp blade), but as I recall, I also had to remove a little wood at the rear of the barrel channel to remove the radius that was left by the cutter that formed it.
When you use the hobby knife on the lock mortise, place the lock into the cavity as good as you can and keep the blade against the metal edge, using the lock as a guide while you press the pointed blade into the wood. It can take several passes around the lock to get the mortise enlarged so the lock plate can fit down into it. Also, it is a good idea to use some sandpaper to dull up the rear of the blade next to the handle. If you don't you might find your finger has slipped forward onto the blade. You won't know it at the time but soon you will see red spots of blood appearing on the wood.
Here is a link to a topic that is talking about the Pecatonica River stock for the Hawken. I made several posts in it and you might want to read them.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/pecatonica-stock-on-renegade.64102/#post-778253
Yeah, and this is a biggy. The "drop at comb" is different then the T/C stocks. It's actually closer to correct for the period rifles as T/C made their stocks to fit with our modern day rifles.
Be very careful when cutting the butt for length of pull, if you copy the T/C LOP to the new stock it will be WAY short for comfortable.
I'd recommend fitting all the mechanical parts first, then doing the butt plate/LOP last. Cut at least an 1" longer then the T/C configuration.
It's easier to cut more then it is to "un-cut"
Oh and p.s., there is a ton of wood that has to come off all around,, a 4 in 1 rasp is your friend and don't be bashful using it.
Be very careful when cutting the butt for length of pull, if you copy the T/C LOP to the new stock it will be WAY short for comfortable.
I'd recommend fitting all the mechanical parts first, then doing the butt plate/LOP last. Cut at least an 1" longer then the T/C configuration.
It's easier to cut more then it is to "un-cut"
Oh and p.s., there is a ton of wood that has to come off all around,, a 4 in 1 rasp is your friend and don't be bashful using it.
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Tips in general...Be extremely sparing with inletting black, otherwise you will have it all over. Better yet use a big fat marker instead. That avoids false transfers. Keep your chisels and scrapers razor sharp. Do not use a Dremil tool, they are evil, and make a mess of it real fast. Keep the lock panels razor sharp and thin. Do not sand anything without an appropriately contoured backer. If you do not have reference books, go over to American Long Rifle to see what originals looked like. The wood is pretty thin when done, not chunky like modern guns. Look up "Herb" (here or there) to see his work on Hawken reproductions. A new ferriers (hoof) rasp will make short work of maple, better know where you are going though. Walnut shapes better with a spoke shave.
Hopefully some of that will be useful, have fun.
Hopefully some of that will be useful, have fun.
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Thank youI restocked my TC Hawken with a Pecatonica River stock years ago.
It isn't a "drop in" project and there is some work that has to be done to get everything to fit. Much of it is minor trimming that can be done with an Exacto knife (Hobby knife with a pointed razor sharp blade), but as I recall, I also had to remove a little wood at the rear of the barrel channel to remove the radius that was left by the cutter that formed it.
When you use the hobby knife on the lock mortise, place the lock into the cavity as good as you can and keep the blade against the metal edge, using the lock as a guide while you press the pointed blade into the wood. It can take several passes around the lock to get the mortise enlarged so the lock plate can fit down into it. Also, it is a good idea to use some sandpaper to dull up the rear of the blade next to the handle. If you don't you might find your finger has slipped forward onto the blade. You won't know it at the time but soon you will see red spots of blood appearing on the wood.
Here is a link to a topic that is talking about the Pecatonica River stock for the Hawken. I made several posts in it and you might want to read them.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/pecatonica-stock-on-renegade.64102/#post-778253
Sm
kansas_volunteer
45 Cal.
I bought a full length Pecatonica stock for my T/C thinking I'd stock it to the muzzle giving it more of an early full stock plains rifle look. However, when putting the barrel in the stock it just didn't look right. I could have shortened the Pecatonica stock and made a half stock that would nave looked OK, but the full length stock had beautiful curl all the way to the muzzle. I just didn't want to sacrifice any of the curl. So, I bought a new 36-inch barrel and scrounged small parts to basicall build a new T/C Hawken from scratch. Perhaps that is a foolish way to go about things, but it is saving beautiful wood and making a rifle Thompson Center could have made in theory. I'm happy with it. I'm leaving my original Hawken as is.
All good points and info. All I can add is, as a carpenter, power tools make work go faster, but mistakes as well. Personally, I like power tools, but, I'm a professional, ( don't try this at home.....)
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