lead melting pots recommendation

[kelljp]

Time to replace/ upgrade the lead melting pot. Was surprised at all the different models.
Does anyone have a recommendation from personal experience with any of the new units ?
Was also surprised at how expensive some models are now.

 

[64Springer]

Lyman 10 pound cast iron stove top pot.

Use a Lyman ladle to scoop and pour lead.

Needs a thermometer too.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I like electric myself although I've used Coleman stoves and propane. If you're just casting a few round balls the small Lee electric works fine. No use heating up a big pot full of lead to cast a few balls. I get 40 or 50 out of a pot for my 54. I like the large Lee or Lyman for large conicals. I have one of each.

 

[kelljp]

I like electric myself although I've used Coleman stoves and propane. If you're just casting a few round balls the small Lee electric works fine. No use heating up a big pot full of lead to cast a few balls. I get 40 or 50 out of a pot for my 54. I like the large Lee or Lyman for large conicals. I have one of each.

Which model Lyman do you have ?
I'm wanting to go electric and get away from using propane. Usually just melting less than 20 lb at anytime.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I've used them all. Lyman is far and away the best. It is also very expensive. The Lee pots work but the bottom pour models often leak. I have also used cast iron on a Coleman stove, cast cooking pots on a Brinkman stove and other devices. They all work. Some are just more convenient than others. If you get something other than the Lyman in a bottom pour, be sure to get a Lyman ladle, the Lees are a poor excuse for a lead ladle.

 

[TDM]

Agree that Lyman's are the best, but so far my Lee 20lbs pot has performed well with no leaks, but I've only used it 1/2 dozen times so far. Before it was always a cast iron pot over a propane cooker.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Having used my Lyman pot for over 30 years I can’t help with the newest products. My Lee pot worked fairly well but the bottom pour seemed to leak from the start. It would be cheaper to buy the Lyman from my experience.

 

[Des52]

I have both Lee pots, got the top dip first and it was fine for my single and double cavity molds. Got the bottom pour when I started using six cavity and mini ball molds. I use the top dip to melt lead I don't know is clean and put into pucks. Don't put dirty lead in the bottom pour and it won't get plugged up and leak. Mine hasn't leaked in at least 30 years of use.

 

[TDM]

Seems that keeping plenty of lead in it and never letting the top trash level get close to the spout is a major key. I plan to give mine a good cleanup of the top debris on the next use.

 

[WALT53]

Seems that keeping plenty of lead in it and never letting the top trash level get close to the spout is a major key. I plan to give mine a good cleanup of the top debris on the next use.

I have an old Saeco that my cousin gave me years ago still works fine but then I’ve never used or seen any other brands in use.

 

[smokeum54]

Lee bottom pour going strong for 25 years. Does leak a bit from time to time, i keep a ingot mold under it to catch leaks. I find putting a screw driver in the slot at the top of the stopper and spinning back and forth with a bit of pressure normally stops it.

 

[IanH]

The new and slightly improved Lee Pro4-20 pot is just about impossible to beat. A mechanical thermometer is essential. I'm still running my original 4-20 from over 20 years ago and it has cast, no lie, over a ton of lead alloy for me with not a single malfunction.

If you remove the pintle and grind/polish it to a sharp point exactly like a pencil, it won't leak unless you let slag accumulate on the bottom.

The BEST lead casting furnace is made by Magma Engineering and costs about $800.

 

[kelljp]

The new and slightly improved Lee Pro4-20 pot is just about impossible to beat. A mechanical thermometer is essential. I'm still running my original 4-20 from over 20 years ago and it has cast, no lie, over a ton of lead alloy for me with not a single malfunction.

If you remove the pintle and grind/polish it to a sharp point exactly like a pencil, it won't leak unless you let slag accumulate on the bottom.

The BEST lead casting furnace is made by Magma Engineering and costs about $800.

The Lee Pro4-20 pot is one I've been looking at over the last couple of days.
$100 range a bottom pour are two things that I like.
Good to hear your input.

 

[IanH]

The Lee Pro4-20 pot is one I've been looking at over the last couple of days.
$100 range a bottom pour are two things that I like.
Good to hear your input.

Don't skimp on a casting thermometer, they're expensive (about $50) but save a lot of headaches. I run pure lead at about 800⁰F depending on what I'm making. Minie balls and skirted slugs like the lead a little hotter (more fluid) and round balls a little cooler (750 or so) so the moulds don't overheat....unless casting .32s in which case hustling four pours a minute and 850⁰ lead is barely enough to keep the mould up to temperature.

I only bought a second Lee 4-20 as a backup, figured my first one will quit sooner or later but it's still going strong. I bought a spare bimetal contact point switch many years ago but haven't needed it yet. Lee sells all the parts. I use the new pot for pure lead and the old one for wheelweights so I don't have to empty one to switch alloy anymore.

 

[ZUG]

I started casting both modern and round balls back in 1968 and used a 40 pound capacity lead cast iron pot on top of a 20 pound plumbers propane tank burner. I would start casting on a Saturday morning and stop around 3:00 or 4:00 in the afternoon. I used 8 and 10 cavity H&G molds for .45 and .38 cal bullets. I would end up with about 5000+ of each caliber. On Sunday I would size and lube all the bullets using a Star luber/sizer - I got two one set up for each caliber.

I prefer the "dip" method over a bottom pour pot as I can work faster and end up with a better bullet. Now a days I have two Lee 20 pound electric pots one bottom pour and the other a dip pot. I use either depending on what I am casting and how many bullets I want to cast that day. Normally I would cast around 2 to 3 hundred so the Lee pots work just fine. I feel anything smaller than a 20 pound pot is wasting my time as you are constantly adding lead and waiting for the lead to come up to temperature and you then have to warm up the mold also before getting back to casting.
If you want to cast a lot of bullets get a big dip pot and a big burner such as one of those turkey friers and put a 10" steel wok or pot on it. DON'T use an aluminum pot!!!

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Which model Lyman do you have ?
I'm wanting to go electric and get away from using propane. Usually just melting less than 20 lb at anytime.

I have the Lyman Big Dipper I think it's called. It's a toss up between the Lyman and the Lee. I have different alloys in each of the big pots and I cast the round balls out of my other little one, a very old Lee, with pure lead in it. At least pure enough for me. I definitely don't like bottom pour pots but others may disagree. A thermometer is nice but not essential. Most of old guys cast a lot of bullets without one back when we didn't know the difference and still managed to shoot things. I have two Lyman thermometers and one reads 700 degrees when the actual temperature is 800. Buyer beware.

 

[oldwood]

If you decide on an open pot , get a Lyman nose pour lead ladle. The nose pour feature allows the lead to go directly into the mold with excellent control. Had a bottom pour pot , but keeping the nozzle working properly was a PITA.

 

[11th corps]

I have and use an RCBS pro melt. Bottom pour, its simple to use and operate. Keeps steady temperature.
Had a Lee bottom pour, got tired of it leaking and splashing lead droplets on my parts and shirts.
That's for unmentionable bullets.
For M/L projectiles I use a little Lee dipper pot I inherited from my B.I.L.

This is my alloy. I use mostly range scrap that I collect from the berms at the club where I shoot. I use an Lp fired fish fryer to melt and process the projectiles. I do have some wheel weights-in the white bucket- however at least half of them are not lead. Each time I shoot I collect some range scrap, and when the pot is full I will heat and melt the scrap into the round "biscuits" you see in the top photo. For my smooth bore I use the range scrap. For my m/l rifles and pistols I use pure lead. I trade range scrap processed lead for the pure lead with another guy.

 

[Reno]

I have used the Lee furnaces. I use the 20#. I do not have the leaking or dripping problems others say they have.
I adjust mine but not much. I have used Lee for years and will continue to use them.
They are affordable.

 

[smo]

For anything larger than .530 I use an old Dutch oven.
The .626 mould will eat up some lead quickly..

.530 and smaller, I have a Lee electric pot & ladle that works well with my double cavity moulds.