The barrel is going to bounce back and forth during the firing cycle. Also, so will the cylinder. The cylinder is heavy, it will bounce back and forth like a slide hammer, that's probably what beats up the wedge. Just my thoughts.
I bet they would, big time!
I’m not shooting anywhere near as often as I did only a few months ago. My practice used to be most evenings I would shoot a couple cylinders at my personal range. Clean as noted, dry the chambers and barrel and reload for the next day.
I use copper based anti seize paste. Wonderful stuff.
Yes, I’ve seen it. My plan was to retire, buy a mini mill and a lathe and begin working on these sorts of projects. I’m 77 years old, just retired and my doctor has told me I’m officially on borrowed time. Chemotherapy is no longer an option, I began to bleed internally after the second treatment and so I won’t be undertaking any further projects. Back on topic, grooving the cylinder pin seems to help but the plan was to remove the barrels on my Remingtons and mill the frame and cylinder to provide for a bushing like the Colts, S&W, etc. etc. cartridge revolvers (and Ruger Old Army @SDSmlf) Ah well… so it goes.
I’m very sorry to hear this. Prayers heading your way.
That sure changes one’s priorities and outlook. Wish you all the best.
This is spot on for me. I purchased my Remington in December 1980. I have shot it a good bit over the years but have shot nothing recently and am itching to get back out to our range. The fact my name is Flint1 is no accident. I love flintlock rifles and most of my shooting has been with that. Since I got those 2 Dragoons a couple months ago I have ordered and received my first smoothbore, a 1777 Charleville. I got the Dragoons to give me diversity in handling and firing the old style guns. Whenever I shoot pistol in competition it will continue to be with the Remington. I have thought about getting a couple holsters and carrying the Dragoons on walks through the woods at times. But I probably won't shoot them enough to cause major damage. Still I take what is being said here to heart. I don't want to risk any damage so in my limited way I try to make them as reliable and accurate as possible. Alot of people here have excellent advice and views for competitors certainly but also for those like me who may only occasionally fire the old Colts.We have a pretty neat mix of folks on this forum !
Some of us enjoy reenacting, shooting at rendezvous & a few of us like myself have enjoyed all facets including being a hard core competitor at the range.
What Mike aka 45D has posted concerning making revolvers more reliable & consistently accurate means very little to those who just occasionally shoot but this old competitor has learned a couple of new tuning tricks from Mike's well illustrated forum postings.
Since joining this forum a couple years ago I've been very impressed by the number of helpful tips & advice offered up professional gunsmiths, shooters & builders on this forum.
Assistance & tips from these generous folks make it's easier for new shooters to get started & if our historical sport lives or dies.
Having been a pretty fair firearm mechanic & antique gun collector for about 60 years I was fortunate start competition with original Colts & Remingtons that produced excellent consistent groups.
In later years when I shooting various mfg replica revolvers to reduce wear on my originals, specs on the originals made it clear what modifications were necessary to make the replicas shoot more accurate & function better .
At one point I had a more talented pistol mechanic change out the barrels on a couple of my replica revolvers to progressive twist rifling like the originals & that upped the scores.
To those of us who are hard core revolver competitors, having correct timing & consistent cylinder gap, correct cylinder to bore size diameters & rifling twist & adding a few modifications to the hammer & nipples = winning.
Nice part about this forum is variety,, if bored by technical stuff, we can click on another subject
Relic shooter
I was where you are. Ten years ago and two months to live. It has been a long two months and continues. Philippeans 4:4-7 is the answer. Praying for you also!
1. A drilled and threaded hole even when filled with a screw is not as strong as the solid steel that was removed to make it. Granted, usually the weakest spot is above and below the arbor slot but some of the slot ends are pretty thin in some models to be drilling and tapping for a screw.
Tell me where your pistol shooting championships are held.
Wow, that news makes this thread pretty insignificant! I'll be praying for your healing body, soul and spirit! Priorities do look different on this end of our time here on earth, which most of us on here are looking at not to far up the road even if in the best of health currently.
Sorry, but no. What about the breech thrust, the cylinder pressure rearward against the standing breech? That equal but opposite thing from physics.
