Hex socketed vent liners?

[EC121]

The hex vent liners probably work. The gun will fire, but they just look tacky and too modern. LIke a scope on a Brown Bess.

 

[M. De Land]

The best vents are internally coned. The internal cone brings the powder of the chamber closer to the heat generated in the pan.

The internal cone can be a through touch hole that has been internally coned by a coning bit. I used a diamond burr to make an internal cone on my Harper's Ferry 1803.

The internal cone can be part of a vent liner such as the Chamber's White Lightning which after installation can not be removed unless you use a screw removal tool.

A vent liner with a screwdriver slot can have an internal cone. May be a slightly smaller cone than the cone in a Chamber's White Lightning.

The hex socket vent liner makes the cone external and makes the path to the powder charge longer than the above flash channels. The external cone can work with pan powder up to the level of the vent hole.

In my opinion an internal cone is a solution in search of a problem and it vectors/funnels internal pressure out word encouraging flash hole erosion. Same reason a nipple has a venturi funneling the cap flash down word to the charge and the base is flat at the bottom of the flash hole discouraging pressure out flow. If you think you need a cone to get the charge closer to the flash than make the cone on the outside which the hex screw does as well and can be removed for cleaning. Might be a good idea to relieve the out side of hex port with a chamfering tool to get rid of the sharp corners for less fouling build up.

 

[Griz44Mag]

The best vents are internally coned. The internal cone brings the powder of the chamber closer to the heat generated in the pan.

The hex socket vent liner makes the cone external and makes the path to the powder charge longer than the above flash channels. The external cone can work with pan powder up to the level of the vent hole.

It appears on a close inspection of the new liner that it is coned on both sides.
I'll find out next week after this rain passes through and it dries out some if performance is any different from the factory liner that came with, which has performed very reliably.

 

[M. De Land]

The hex vent liners probably work. The gun will fire, but they just look tacky and too modern. LIke a scope on a Brown Bess.

Yeah, that part is true.

 

[Griz44Mag]

The hex vent liners probably work. The gun will fire, but they just look tacky and too modern. LIke a scope on a Brown Bess.

IMO some comments are WAY WAY over-dramatic, especially for something that you can't even see unless the frizzen is open, you are on the side of the gun to see it, AND you are specifically looking for it. The thread is not about whether or not it is PC correct enough for the thread counters, as I have never seen an antique muzzle loader with a liner yet.
To stay on topic - The intent of the thread (refer to the TITLE) was to find a specific liner for a firearm that was fitted with one from the factory.
If that offends you, then you are in the wrong thread to start with.

 

[EC121]

If you are going to rant , please rant correctly. You are talking about Historical Correctness not Political Correctness.

 

[Griz44Mag]

If you are going to rant , please rant correctly. You are talking about Historical Correctness not Political Correctness.

If you are going to thread count that too - try PERIOD instead of Political -
I have absolutely no idea how POLITICAL can have anything to do with a vent liner - but maybe you do.

 

[EC121]

To me the "PC" in your rant equals Political Correctness. Perhaps you meant Period Correctness, but you said "PC correct" which, if you meant "period correct", is redundant and confusing.
I am not a thread counter. I have never done the primate thing. No interest in playing dress up. Strictly target shooting and hunting. I hunt with flintlocks only and carry a horn and bag but wear camo.
What I meant by my post was that Allen type screws are incongruous on an old style rifle. Perfectly functional but the hex shaped hole is jarring to the eye.
As Jim Chambers says he will sell you a liner now or when the hole burns out(and it will), but eventually he will sell you a liner.

 

[Golfswithwolves]

I believe these hex vents only work well when the rifle has six lands and grooves. I hope this helps.

 

[Howie1968]

in my flintlock I have a hex liner I got from rmc-oxyoke it works great and no issues plus its easy to take out

 

[Griz44Mag]

[Q

I believe these hex vents only work well when the rifle has six lands and grooves. I hope this helps.

Good one Golf...

 

[Griz44Mag]

in my flintlock I have a hex liner I got from rmc-oxyoke it works great and no issues plus its easy to take out

The ones I finally got off Flea-bag are RMC, as on their website they are not listed in the 8-1.25 configuration.
May be out of stock and maybe quit carrying them, i dunno...

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

Whatever works.
SM

 

[M. De Land]

The ones I finally got off Flea-bag are RMC, as on their website they are not listed in the 8-1.25 configuration.
May be out of stock and maybe quit carrying them, i dunno...

I made mine out of A-2 tool steel and will install it , flush it with the exterior barrel flat then cone the port exterior . The interior will be flush with the arc of barrel groove diameter which will be reamed smooth to just ahead of the liner diameter. There will be no rifling or liner hole threads in the barrel breech area to collect fouling for about .400 up from the breech plug face.
Burned out liners without slots or hex ports are easily removed with a drill and the appropriate Easy out.

 

[M. De Land]

Much ado about nothing. A "White Lightening" liner is not removable, and is one of the best on the planet.

Of course they are removable. Not quite as easily as if they had a slot or hex port. It will need to be after it burns out from the internal venturi . Nipples burn out don't they on percussion guns and so will the White lighting eventually.

 

[longcruise]

I made mine out of A-2 tool steel and will install it , flush it with the exterior barrel flat then cone the port exterior . The interior will be flush with the arc of barrel groove diameter which will be reamed smooth to just ahead of the liner diameter. There will be no rifling or liner hole threads in the barrel breech area to collect fouling for about .400 up from the breech plug face.
Burned out liners without slots or hex ports are easily removed with a drill and the appropriate Easy out.

Did you do any heat treatment of the steel?

Pictures of this would be welcome!

 

[Rudyard]

Not that it matters overly but a great many originals did have vent liners some gold, some platina some plain iron and the removal of metal internally was a practice used the object being to get a' square' hole . Square in the sense that it was as deep as it was wide . The larger external hole idea seems fine but I found it tended to clog in the only trial I gave it . However its all a matter of fancy I don't believe takeing out vents to clean is needed and that alternateing vents to drums is particularly practical , the slotted idea too readily marred being so shallow. But every one has their own notions . I fit vent liners as standard but one customer insisted it be just the wall wide bored hole so that's what he got .Its a bit like the rod end some like the cupped brass threaded which makes practical sense at one end at least . Some just reckon wood only sufficient . I've found stag or horn tips have lasted years horn being well suited for shotguns all rods I think aught to have some sort of provision to take a jag or a worm /ball drawer even if its only the spiral wire sort This said I used to use a new rod with just a whittled chisel like tip in shotguns as I would walk my shoot till dusk and by the time Ime back to my pushbike its dark the angled tip then used to turn the thin top wad & I recovered the shot then ide avail of a hollow tree, rabbit hole, or soof drain ,. poke up the barrel & fire away the remaining charge . Got a bit scary but it didn't wake up 'Bairns' (children) I would feel the void using the rod but one night as I withdrew the barrel it snagged a root some how the muzzle unwound about 1/2" . So I trimmed it back put it back to original if kept the offcut keeping it in a cap tin in its case .where fifty odd years later it remains.
Rudyard

 

[Pete G]

Of course they are removable. Not quite as easily as if they had a slot or hex port. It will need to be after it burns out from the internal venturi . Nipples burn out don't they on percussion guns and so will the White lighting eventually.

OK, I give. They are not removable for regular cleaning.

 

[M. De Land]

Did you do any heat treatment of the steel?

Pictures of this would be welcome!

I could but as I have the oven for it but think I will leave them in the annealed state I turned them in. A-2 has a high chrome content so will be quite erosive resistant as is and will be easier to remove and replace as needed if left annealed. Actually it is quite hard and tough as it is in the annealed state as is seen when machining the alloy.
The main reason a nipple is hardened is to resist deformation from repeated hammer blows although hardening is said to add some erosion resistance but mainly it is the high chrome content.

 

[M. De Land]

I could but as I have the oven for it but think I will leave them in the annealed state I turned them in. A-2 has a high chrome content so will be quite erosive resistant as is and will be easier to remove and replace as needed if left annealed. Actually it is quite hard and tough as it is in the annealed state as is seen when machining the alloy.
The main reason a nipple is hardened is to resist deformation from repeated hammer blows although hardening is said to add some erosion resistance but mainly it is the high chrome content.

Here are a couple of pictures of the liner next to a WL liner if I can get them to attach.