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replacing lock on Pedersoli Kentucky

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macentyre

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Does anyone know of a reliable lock that works as a replacement on the Pedersoli Kentucky long rifle?

I found a lightly used .45 and have enjoyed shooting it a lot. Only problem is the lock does not ignite the primer reliably. I lightened the frizzen spring, to no effect. Took a fine file to the face of the frizzen, also to no effect. It might fire three times in a row if I use a brand new TC synthetic flint, carefully mounted... but not always. Rarely does it fire twice in a row, no matter what I have done. At this moment, it will not fire at all, after cleaning and carefully installing a new flint.

Dry firing it in the dark reveals that few sparks make it to the pan. They go out to the side, as though the frizzen is deflecting them. I have a Lyman that fires reliably... in the dark, you can see that it's sparks go right into the pan.

I called Jim Chambers, and spoke with Mrs. C. She said they have heard that the Pedersoli locks are unreliable. They do not have a replacement lock for that model.

Anyone know of a good lock that would work in this rifle?

- MacEntyre
 
MacEntyre said:
I called Jim Chambers, and spoke with Mrs. C. She said they have heard that the Pedersoli locks are unreliable. They do not have a replacement lock for that model.
- MacEntyre
:youcrazy:

Wow! And the Chambers' must be correct because... Pedersoli has sold few such locks that Jim Chambers hasn't developed a replacement.
:shake:

Ignore the Chambers' asinine comment and get a whole new Pedersoli lock (if you're sure that's what's necessary) from them or the coupla aftermarket distributors of them...
 
Not sure why there is a problem with what she said... oh, well.

Alden said:
...get a whole new Pedersoli lock (if you're sure that's what's necessary) from them or the coupla aftermarket distributors of them...
I should have said that Mrs. C. suggested the same... clearly, some work well, and some don't.

I'd rather get an aftermarket replacement that has a good reputation.

Got any specific suggestions?
 
bpd303 said:
I think the problem may be the T/C synthetic flint's. Have you tried any others like English or French flints?
It won't work at all with any other flints. I have lots of them.

I've read posts in other forums that say the frizzen is the problem... doesn't spark well, and eats flints. That's what mine does.
 
I love my Pedersoli Kentucky lock. It fires just about every time. If it doesn't it is because I am firing numerous consecutive shots without paying attention to the flint until it FTF.

What powder are you using? Does the powder ignite in the pan? What flints are you using? What happens to the flints after a few shots? Are they wearing really quickly? I believe there is an answer to your Pedersoli lock and it will probably be simple.

Tap into the knowledge on here and don't get distracted by negative criticism or the real experts will shy away from your post. They are a sweet rifle, problems not withstanding.
 
Kapow said:
What powder are you using?
FFFg in the pan.

Kapow said:
Does the powder ignite in the pan?
That's the problem. It won't ignite the pan.

Kapow said:
What flints are you using?
I have English, French, American and TC flints. The only ones that work are the TC flints.

Kapow said:
What happens to the flints after a few shots?
They are chipped, and holes appear in the edge.

Kapow said:
Are they wearing really quickly?
Yep!

Kapow said:
I believe there is an answer to your Pedersoli lock and it will probably be simple.
I hope so!

Thanks!
 
Have you tried contacting L&R? They had a replacement lock for a Traditions that I had. I don't know if they have one for yours but it would be worth a try.
 
C.J. said:
Have you tried contacting L&R?
Have only contacted Chambers... thanks for the recommendation! I see that they are on Pecatonica web site, along with Davis and Chambers...
 
Have u tried bevel up and down on the flints?

I have the same rifle, mine works well with the beveled side up
 
the Black Spot said:
...mine works well with the beveled side up
Yep... doesn't make it reliable, but it works better bevel up.

rjmorrison said:
you are better off dealing with l and r directly
Yes, I did contact them directly... just noted that they are one of the few that PRLR lists, which is a thumbs up, I believe.
 
First, how much of the face of the frizzen is being scraped by the flint? It should be at least 1/3 to 1/2 the length. You might try coating the face of the frizzen with a black or red magic marker to see how long is the length of the scrape and even how wide the scrape is.

How long are the flints and what are you using to wrap the flint to hold it in the jaws?

One of the things I've found many times is people don't know to try different length flints and different thicknesses of leather wraps to get the correct sized flint to scrape long enough for the best amount of sparks down into the pan.

If a fine file won't score the frizzen, it is hard enough, but perhaps too hard? Too hard and it won't scrape as many sparks. However, before trying to temper the frizzen, it is best to experiment with different lengths of flint and different thicknesses of leather to see it that is what is needed.

Gus
 
Artificer said:
First, how much of the face of the frizzen is being scraped by the flint? It should be at least 1/3 to 1/2 the length.
It is at least 1/2 the length, but I have thought that it would be better if it scraped more toward the lower end.

Artificer said:
How long are the flints and what are you using to wrap the flint to hold it in the jaws?
5/8" flints wrapped in thin leather. Cannot be any thicker... the jaws won't accept any more.

Artificer said:
One of the things I've found many times is ...to try different length flints and different thicknesses of leather wraps...
...done that. I have tried lots of flints.

Artificer said:
If a fine file won't score the frizzen, it is hard enough, but perhaps too hard?
That is what others have suggested... hard frizzen not carbon steel. I don't know how to determine that.

Artificer said:
...before trying to temper the frizzen, it is best to experiment with different lengths of flint and different thicknesses of leather to see it that is what is needed.
I've done that... that's how I can sometimes get it to fire 3 times in a row. A good cleaning, brand new flint, carefully adjusted square to the frizzen... but it has always failed to fire more than three times.
 
Just went to the shop and tried it again...

New English flint, clean pan... 3 time it fired, then 2 no-ignition. Then it fired once in three, then it would fire no more. Flint looked well used.

New TC flint, clean pan... 3 times it fired, then 2 no-ignition. The edge of the flint was all broken up.
 
You might try the track of the wolf catalog. They have actual size pictures that you could trace and try on your gun. Even so I would expect to have to remove some wood here and there. You may have to drill and tap for the lock bolts also. What seem like a simple job could be more complex. I am with you in being frustrated with an unreliable lock. As was before mentioned it may be something Simple. Try some of the suggestions before giving up on that lock.
 
I am no expert but it sounds like your flint is hitting too square on and needs to be angled downwards. On my Kentucky I was having a similar issue so I packed a thin piece of leather under the leather wrap at the bottom jaw under the rear of the flint to get it to angle downwards. That made a huge difference. I shoot it bevel up and angling down with 5/8 x 1/2 " English flints. I found a slightly thicker piece of leather wrap also helped achieve this.

I also drilled out the touch hole to 1/16" which helped greatly with ignition. I can't see how you would need to replace the whole lock. Why not source a new frizzen? You mention that you lightened the spring. Could this have affected its ability to create enough force to get a reliable spark?

Hope this helps. Good luck with it.
 
As far as the frizzen perhaps being improperly tempered, it would be difficult to properly temper it without knowing what the metal is that the frizzen is made from.

It sounds to me like you have done everything a customer could be expected to do and the lock won't spark correctly. At this point, I would suggest contacting the customer service department of where you ordered/bought the rifle. If for example you purchased it from Cabela's or Gander Mountain, I would refer the problem to their gunsmiths as well.

Gus
 

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