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Trigger ?

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tx50cal

40 Cal.
Joined
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I am working on the CVA Mountain rifle. It seem that there is not enough roon for the rear trigger to pivot and set into the front trigger. The trigger plate doesnt seem to be inlet too deep, it is just flush with the surrounding wood. Is it common to file a small amont off of the sear bar or triggrrs to get everything spaces out on these rifles? I dont want to mess anything up, so I thought that I would ask first. One of my other CVA rifles has the sear bar filed down about halfway.
 
mrfishnhunt said:
It seem that there is not enough roon for the rear trigger to pivot and set into the front trigger.
Maybe it's the way it's said but that dosen't make a lot of sense to me.
Your saying the rear won't set?

If so try turning this screw in,, maybe the leaf is pressing too hard.
But usually it's compressed wood of the inlet that has failed the trigger position,, these MR stocks are all 30+ yrs old.

Untitled.jpg
 
The trigger works great out of the stock, but when put into thr stock it seems like the spqce between the triggers and sear arm are off. The rear trigger will set off the lock if pulled hard enough.
 
Can you see that photobucket pic?
(some can-some can't)
If you can you'll see that I have filed the rear bar concave in the area of sear arm contact in an attempt to fix the same problem you describe.

Didn't work.
It was in fact the trigger bedding issue,, I had to bring the trigger much lower in the worn out/stressed inlet.

So if you already know what the problem is and have a plan then I'm sorry, I shouldn't have suggested another issue.
 
The trigger works great out of the stock, but when put into thr stock it seems like the spqce between the triggers and sear arm are off. The rear trigger will set off the lock if pulled hard enough.
 
Sounds like the common issue with the Mountain rifles. Problem was inlet too deep. Try putting a spacer under the trigger when you put it together and see how it functions.
 
I will try a couple of pieces of popcicle sticks for spacers and try that.
 
If the trigger plate then seats proud to the wood you can probably file it down some. Most of them have .010" or so of extra metal that can be taken away. Before that I would think about filing the tops of the trigger blade. Next step would be to put a bent arch in the sear bar, and then finally, bending the main part of the sear arm (the part next to the lock) upwards. Just remember to get the nose of the sear bar heat sunk well, or you'll have to re-temper it.
 
mrfishnhunt said:
I haven't tried it yet.
That's where I live, the arm pit of Texas.


I'm not sure I'd call it the armpit...at least you have TREES...aside from the daily rain, which can dampen in more ways than one, it's a lush and verdant country. Plenty of game, fish and fowl to keep you busy. The mesquite TREES here really aren't trees, but we call them such.
 
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