Traditions PA Pellet

[pchunterpa]

Hopefully the pics uploaded
But I finally finished installing a single set trigger and new trigger guard as well as refinished the stock, that was a first for me.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I’m new to the board and fairly new at using a flintlock. I purchased a traditions pa pellet thinking I did enough research to understand what I wanted and should have been looking at to purchase.

I am wanting to upgrade the trigger if at all possible. I have adjusted the trigger, but still do not like it. There is too much slop, creep, and the pull weight is still too heavy for my liking. I have seen the traditions does sell the same rifle with double set triggers but to no avail they will not sell me one. Is there any triggers that will work with this rifle and not afraid of doing what needs to be done to get it working.

Also the lock on it seems a little off. About a quarter of the time the flint will get stuck toward the bottom of the frizzen and the frizzen doesn’t flip back the way it would should. I have tried several different types of flints and sizes.

So I am looking to replace the trigger and lock on my pa pellet, I am going to keep it no matter what since it is my first, but I want to make it the best I can if possible.

Thank you ahead a time for any help in pointing me in the right direction.

It will always be a traditions gun... Save the money and invest in something that will appreciate in value. In the end your decision ultimately but cheap flinters are exactly that and likely will give you more fuss than worth. However, good luck in your new endeavor's! You are now hooked!

 

[Sparkitoff]

There are a few places that will polish and tune your lock. Cabin Creek comes to mind and Frontier Gander. It may make a huge improvement or maybe not, but it is a lot less than the RPL lock and usually Traditions will still warranty it.

 

[brianpa40]

I have a pa pellet and I polished the contact points and it made it a lot better is it a 200.00 dollar lock no but it is a vast improvement.
I also did a lock job on a bobcat rifle which is beyond cheap and it smoothed that up to a usable level. So for the money that some of these guns don’t cost they can be helped with a little time and patience.

 

[excess650]

Hopefully the pics uploaded
But I finally finished installing a single set trigger and new trigger guard as well as refinished the stock, that was a first for me.

The pictures loaded just fine. The flint looks to be too long, appears to be holding the frizzen open.

Does it function properly? A lock originally made for a single trigger might not have a fly in the tumbler to make it compatible with a set trigger.

 

[pchunterpa]

Very true, it always be a traditions, but I do like to tinker with things. I do have a cabelas brand made investarms in the gun cabinet. I also plan on buying a good rifle kit and trying my hand at that.

What points on the lock should I try and polish and what do you use to polish?

I took more pics of the flint placement and the hammer, as well as the size of the flint it looks like it’s 3/4x3/4 I wonder if I should try 5/8” long one

One last edit, thanks for the help

 

[excess650]

If the frizzen still hangs up upon firingm meaning doesn't fully open, try a shorter flint, shorten one that you have, notch the leather to allow the flint further back in the cock, etc.

That is a really simple looking lock. Is there a fly in the tumbler?

 

[pchunterpa]

From looking at the lock and diagrams of other locks that do have the fly piece, mine does not.

I will try that with the flint thanks

 

[brianpa40]

I use a a Arkansas stone that is fine and it is shaped like a small triangle. Polish the full cock nick and sear but make sure you go slow and keep the same angle that the parts are already set at then the adjustment screw will come into play. I also use jewelers head head set so I can see that my angles stay right. I also polish the back of the lock plate around the tumbler and sear pivot. The end of the main spring and the contact point on the tumbler. Then there is the frizzen spring and the frizzen foot at the contact point.
As far as the flint I use a 5/8 by 3/4 but they call for a 5/8 by 5/8
Hope this helps just go slow and keep the angles.

 

[pchunterpa]

I use a a Arkansas stone that is fine and it is shaped like a small triangle. Polish the full cock nick and sear but make sure you go slow and keep the same angle that the parts are already set at then the adjustment screw will come into play. I also use jewelers head head set so I can see that my angles stay right. I also polish the back of the lock plate around the tumbler and sear pivot. The end of the main spring and the contact point on the tumbler. Then there is the frizzen spring and the frizzen foot at the contact point.
As far as the flint I use a 5/8 by 3/4 but they call for a 5/8 by 5/8
Hope this helps just go slow and keep the angles.

Awesome, thank you

 

[FredMcIntire]

Please be careful putting together a hodgepodge of parts that were never designed to work together.... Safety of operation needs to be first and foremost in your project. It only takes a cats whisker to get the loudest boom you’ve ever heard when expecting a click

 

[pchunterpa]

Please be careful putting together a hodgepodge of parts that were never designed to work together.... Safety of operation needs to be first and foremost in your project. It only takes a cats whisker to get the loudest boom you’ve ever heard when expecting a click

Yep, I checked for functionality before I started putting things together all the way.

 

[Livbucks]

I have one. I also didnt like the trigger. I polished the sear with 00 steel wool and adjusted it. Made a big difference. Been awhile so I dont remember if I put any lube on it or not. I might have been apprehensive of doing that. Memory fails me. I do remember that the sear adjustment screw was all the way back, basically doing nothing as far as adjustment. Made the gun shootable.