• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Frizzen wear - smooth it or replace it

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have no idea why anyone would smooth the frizzen face or worry about what it looked like as long as it is throwing a good shower of sparks.

I ask that question often, some people even will often sand and carburize a frizzen over and over, with this actually hurting the frizzen’s causing it to lose carbon quicker.

I case harden alloy steel frizzens, 6150, and others with fruit pit charcoal and quench in hot water, this works very well for me. 1095 i always oil harden, it sparks the best but its difficult to get the right temper.
 
I case harden alloy steel frizzens, 6150, and others with fruit pit charcoal and quench in hot water, this works very well for me. 1095 i always oil harden, it sparks the best but its difficult to get the right temper.
Fruit pit charcoal? Kasnit?
Where in the world do you get that? Yeah, I understand why you would use that, but ya gotta eat a lot of fruit to case harden much of anything. ;-)
 
Last edited:
so, I pulled Patience (my Lyman GPR) out to put a fresh Rich Pierce flint in for the upcoming PA rock-lock season and noticed dents/nicks in the frizzen where the flint makes initial contact. I am gonna mess with the leather pad and wrap to change the impact angle a few degrees cuz it looked like it was too straight in.

Question is what to do about the frizzen face? I’m thinking of sanding the dents out a little to at least take edges off and shallow out the divots. But what’s my next step. Do I try to (re)harden the face and buy a spare/replacement frizzen just in case, or just drop the coin on an L&R?
View attachment 274795
It looks fine . Is it still sparking ? If so its fine , carry on ....if not , get a new one
 
It looks fine . Is it still sparking ? If so its fine , carry on ....if not , get a new one

Replaced flint with a new one and took it outside to test. This is a slow mo video capture of the sparks in the pan (no primer-just sparks) A bit out of focus but looks pretty dang good to me. What do you all think.

image0.jpeg
 
That's interesting. Cherry and peach pits contain trace amounts of cyanide as did Kasenit. That's probably why the cherry and peach pit charcoal do well when case hardening a frizzen.

Yeap, thats what make it work so well, i also use bone and wood charcoal with the mixture too. About 1/3 of each.

tobacco produces lots of cyanide too.
 
Back
Top