The Kings Pattern Re- Visited

[BigDeutscher]

So here is where we start
After Getting advice from some of the best, most informed folks on this site .
I have desided to try to make this India Built model 1730ish Bess, into a sleek ,well balanced, Weapon of War.
The pictures posted by members of the Forum
{Smoothbore thread} .Will serve me well
to add proper lines and measurments to the Bess
Let The Show Begin
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[Cheyenne]

BD, that's an interesting angle, and just so happens that on page 30 of Bailey's Small arms of the British Forces in America 1664-1815, there is a similar shot of a 1730 musket. I would say your is very close in profile.

One thing noticeable, that may help, is when you look at the forarm from the side, on the originals, the sling swivel screw is in line with the pins holding the barrel/thimbles in place. On yours, and most others, these are off set to one degree or another....this would mean the web between the barrel and RR is thicker on the curry piece.....recutting the rr groove and inletting the thimbles would go a long way to giving the musket a makeover.

The carving panels could be reduced a bit, the tear drops and the forward section. All in all, I think it will be a decent looking musket if given a little TLC. :thumbsup:

Does it have any of the King's markings on the barrel? Some, such as those from MSV do have the markings.

 

[Cheyenne]

Not sure how far you've gotten....I'd be interested in seeing the barrel out of the stock, mainly to see it's attachments. Early King's muskets used loops, the pipes fit over these and the pin passed through both to support the forarm. I'd be interested to see how the Indians do it.

One thing that seems to prevail is the position of the cock at the fired position. It always seems to me the cock is is at an almost 1/2 cock position. It may just be the cock needs to be bent just a bit, but as long as it throws a shower of sparks, what does it really matter?

How's the trgger pull on your beast?

 

[Mike Brooks]

How big is the breech on that barrel? Looks kind of narrow from the bottom side.

 

[BigDeutscher]

There are no markings on the Bess at all
But I have been saveing all I see on three forums
Close ups of originals and good repops
Trigger pull ...Well lets just say, it aint no target rifle,
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[BigDeutscher]

I had been planning my attack all Day
I more look at the Original- Kings Pattern pictures.
Then I started with my best wood chisel
Slowly ...slowly dont get in a hurry
I reduced the carving, in length, by half
And then the wood around the lock,again by one half
The beavertail was tricky but, all I have seen are just alittle different, So why not mine
I can rest now .....It has begun.
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[Cheyenne]

Keep at it! How's the wood work? Soft, hard, etc?

 

[Cheyenne]

Here's a good view of a TRS musket....it'll give you a good idea of what you'd like to see in the lock panels and carving.

Also, in your photo, is the cock at 1/2 cock? Looks like the geometry of the cock is off a bit.

 

[Cheyenne]

2nd picture will show you what I'm talking about as far as the relationship of the cock to the hammer.

 

[Cheyenne]

And this shows the web between the barrel and RR groove.

 

[Zonie]

Based on the pictures I posted elsewhere, the distance between the ramrod and the barrel doesn't look very far off to me.

I think trying to reduce it by increasing the barrel depth or the depth of the RR channel could be better spent elsewhere.

 

[BigDeutscher]

Big Z
I have not had a chance to post pics
So Far
Wood cuts easy
Sands Smooth
R/R/ channel removed almost completely.
Re-cut to proper depth.
Fore Stock thinned.
Pipes re-seated ,not pinned {yet}
1 side lock pannel and carvings to go.
Checking originals, constantly!
Sweating alot.
Looks good so far :thumbsup:
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[BigDeutscher]

I would like to see the Barrel out also
but to be truthfull
I think the wood is alittle fragile
All Pined together.I dont think the stock will ever be an issue
So unless I just have to ..It will stay in
the stock.
Pipes inlets are through to the barrel
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[Cheyenne]

BigD,

Would love to see some pictures of what you have so far! Did/are you going to have to rest the entry pipe?

 

[Capt. Jas.]

You will have a hard time thinning the top half of the fore stock correctly with the barrel in won't you?

 

[fitter]

OOPS! :rotf:

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

You will have a hard time thinning the top half of the fore stock correctly with the barrel in won't you?

Yup, that goes from the breach all of the way to the end of the forearm. Can't do it if you don't remove the barrel B.D.

 

[rich pierce]

(not in reply to any one post or person) You can't inlet the barrel deeper else the touchhole will not be lined up. That's a crazy idea. (I've had crazy ideas so I know one when I hear it). :youcrazy: You can't thin the web unless you're willing to make new holes for the ramrod pipes etc and even possibly new lugs and re-drill them.

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

That is a good point Rich, I don't think I heard anyone suggesting it but it is good advice. The main thing to do to slim the forearm (top to bottom) is to deepen the ramrod groove and then re-inlet the ramrod pipes to their proper position. This may require re-cutting the ramrod hole from inside the barrel channel as well since he won't be able to re-drill it. Then there is slabbing the forearm (thin from side to side) to get the proper forearm appearance for the Brown Bess.

 

[BigDeutscher]

O.K. Guys
You can not go from barrel channel down
You can only re-cut the R/R channel and re-set the pipes. which is what I did
It came out really good and I will post pics soon as it is sanded and stained.
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