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These have, on occasion, have given me problems.
View attachment 276608

These have worked for me, although I don't think they are HC.
View attachment 276609
I use the long ones for all my calibers. And the problem I have is the same when the barrel is clean and bright. I get the same amount of resistance whether it’s the first swab after shooting or the last after cleaning. I think an aggressive polish and some attention to the jag should take care of it.
 
I use a range rod with muzzle guide for cleaning.
I have had the same problems...finally found some 20 GA bore mops with an adaptor for the rod, and problem was solved. PS - it's not HC but then the brass jags aren't either. At the range I have a brieffcase full of cleaning stuff but in the field carry a vial of wet cleaner and extra dry mops to finish up :)
 
@TTT, @Billy-by-gosh brings up a good option, and it’s one I was thinking about this afternoon. Also, I keep forgetting that I have a couple of bags of Tow for traditional cleaning. Have a couple of cork screw jags that I’ve been wanting to fit one on a wiping stick I cut and seasoned last year. Lots of good options to try. I just keep forgetting about the stuff I have squirreled away.
 
Well tonight my cleaning rod broke off right behind the jag. SO I guess I'll have to get help pulling the barrel and get breach plug out to push it through
 
Well tonight my cleaning rod broke off right behind the jag. SO I guess I'll have to get help pulling the barrel and get breach plug out to push it through
I’m not sure exactly what you are doing, but did you expect to continue to do the same thing and hope your jag wasn’t going to repeatedly get stuck? Time for a different plan.

Ok, on to the cleaning rod broken off behind the jag, there are options short of removing the breech plug. Consider trying a CO2 unloader. Or maybe get some powder behind the jag and shoot it out. Then there is the grease gun option if you happen to have a stuck jag in a percussion with a removable nipple or a flintlock with a removable liner that has threads that will match a zerk fitting.

Wish you luck, whatever path you decide to go down.
 
Well tonight my cleaning rod broke off right behind the jag. SO I guess I'll have to get help pulling the barrel and get breach plug out to push it through
Removing the breech is no big deal. Make sure you have a witness mark on the bottom of the barrel and breech, make one with a cold chisel if you don’t. I use some thin aluminum between the barrel and vise jaws. Tighten it down good and use a long adjustable wrench to unscrew. Take your time and you won’t mar up anything.
 
Removing the breech is no big deal.
Don’t disagree with you at all, removing a breech plug is no big deal for many, but in this case it just might be above the OP’s pay grade. One of the old man’s sayings was when stuck in a hole, stop digging and put the shovel down. Look for the simplest solution. CO2, powder charge and grease are a bit simpler, at least in my opinion.
 
I've seen two guns, one ruined and the other made to look like Bubba did it because the drum was threaded into the breech plug and not removed before the wrench and cheater bar were applied. Inexperience can get expensive.
Some folks can’t stack 2 blocks on top of each other. Others have better luck.
 
Don’t disagree with you at all, removing a breech plug is no big deal for many, but in this case it just might be above the OP’s pay grade. One of the old man’s sayings was when stuck in a hole, stop digging and put the shovel down. Look for the simplest solution. CO2, powder charge and grease are a bit simpler, at least in my opinion.
I agree, but we’ve been discussing getting the inside of the barrel polished and checked for a protruding vent liner. He needs an open barrel to do that. If he’s not up to it maybe he can find someone to help him.
 
I have a .62 cal smoothbore, and every time I clean it, EVERY TIME, I end up with patch and jag stuck! Can anyone one tell me why? I do not have this issue with any of my rifles.

Thanks
Use a slightly undersized copper brush with a cleaning patch wrapped around it. The bristles will give a little bit when you hit a rough place and will not stick.
Donnot twist the brush arlund when in a tight spot because the brush may come off of th part that screws into your cleaning rod end. Then yo will have another big problem to deal with.
If it is an India-made gun there may be a tight spot in the bore. Just a thought.
 
I agree, but we’ve been discussing getting the inside of the barrel polished and checked for a protruding vent liner.
Not sure about the protruding vent liner based on OP’s follow up posts. Unless the barrel has multiple vent liners…. I have seen corroded bores rougher than a corn cob that with the properly designed and sized jag and cleaning patch having no problem getting the jag and patch combo in and out of. In my opinion, likely a jag design and/or cleaning patch size/thickness causing problems for OP.
It actually is any where in the barrel. Halfway or all the way to the breach. Wet or dry patch.
 
Not sure about the protruding vent liner based on OP’s follow up posts. Unless the barrel has multiple vent liners…. I have seen corroded bores rougher than a corn cob that with the properly designed and sized jag and cleaning patch having no problem getting the jag and patch combo in and out of. In my opinion, likely a jag design and/or cleaning patch size/thickness causing problems for OP.
Could certainly be the case.
 
I suppose just plugging the touch hole and filling with warm water, then letting it sit and then dump it, won’t work? Do that use a bore brush — I like nylon or tynex. A tornado works great in my Bess. Any way, when the water comes up clear, use a swab. Smaller jag like has been said. This ain’t rocket science. Tow will work.
 
I have a .62 cal smoothbore, and every time I clean it, EVERY TIME, I end up with patch and jag stuck! Can anyone one tell me why? I do not have this issue with any of my rifles.

Thanks
Due to the large caliber, the .62 has a lot of surface area on the barrel, and more surface area = more resistance where there's fouling. I experienced the same issue on mine.

My solution has been to start with an exceptionally thin patch (and to *never* skip soaking the barrel first!). I used a super thin muslin patch to start. The instant I feel any resistance, it comes back up and I start a new patch. Only once I'm able to run the thin patch down the barrel, I move to a regular thickness cleaning patch.

If that doesn't achieve the desired results, you might want to try starting with a tow-worm, which will have even looser tolerances than a thin patch.
 
I’m not sure exactly what you are doing, but did you expect to continue to do the same thing and hope your jag wasn’t going to repeatedly get stuck? Time for a different plan.

Ok, on to the cleaning rod broken off behind the jag, there are options short of removing the breech plug. Consider trying a CO2 unloader. Or maybe get some powder behind the jag and shoot it out. Then there is the grease gun option if you happen to have a stuck jag in a percussion with a removable nipple or a flintlock with a removable liner that has threads that will match a zerk fitting.

Wish you luck, whatever path you decide to go down.
Here's the thing, it never did it all the time. Again it would be 2 or 3 times out of 20 patches in the cleaning process. THIS TiME, I noticed a little oxidation in the barrel (had not shot it) so I ran a solvent patch down to clean it up. This time the very first patch stuck, hense when I started this post. Last night one of my boys was over and was trying to help me get it removed from the barrel and that is when it broke. This is part of my confusion because it doesn't do it with every patch and never thus stuck!
Also I've been trying to find a CO2 Kit for so.e time now with no luck. Would love info on where to find one. Thanks again
 

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