I have redone many stocks, but this CVA Mountain is a test. I prefer to chemically strip my stocks, so that sanding does not alter the shape in any fashion. But, I have used my old stand stripper by Zip Strip and then Klean Strip and the stock looks horrible. It is splotchy and no matter how I soak it, and then steel wool it back, it isn't getting any better. I tried rubbing acetone on a few of the splotches and that didn't help. Surely there is a chemical that can get this wood clean. What has been your best stripper?
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Stock Stripping
- Thread starter Dave K
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Kentuckywindage
62 Cal.
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i use Do it- quick stripper gel. Put it on thick and give it 20 to 30 minutes and use the back edge of my patch knife and scrape it off. Follow up with 100 grit sand paper and then bleech the stain out.
aprayinbear
36 Cal.
Here's a thought,
I was a furniture maker for many years and while I mostly made new pieces, I would occasionally refinish a piece for a special customer.
The interesting thing is that I never used stripper; too messy, toxic, blotchy and costly. Instead I used a variety of cabinet scrapers that, when used properly, would remove just the finish, leaving the wood clear underneath. My scrappers usually consisted of one square hand held cabinet scraper and several old pocket knives with different shaped blades. With them I could remove the finish on a dining table in less then 30 minutes.
Add a light careful sanding with 220 - 320 grit paper and I was ready to reapply the stain. Srippers damage the wood, the wood grain, and the way that wood takes stain. As many will show you, you can still get a great end product, but it takes a lot more time and effort.
And finally, you probably need to use wood bleach to even the blotchyness you have left on you gun. If you are down to the wood and still see light and dark areas, no amount of sanding will work. You will need some bleach.
Just a thought :hmm:
I was a furniture maker for many years and while I mostly made new pieces, I would occasionally refinish a piece for a special customer.
The interesting thing is that I never used stripper; too messy, toxic, blotchy and costly. Instead I used a variety of cabinet scrapers that, when used properly, would remove just the finish, leaving the wood clear underneath. My scrappers usually consisted of one square hand held cabinet scraper and several old pocket knives with different shaped blades. With them I could remove the finish on a dining table in less then 30 minutes.
Add a light careful sanding with 220 - 320 grit paper and I was ready to reapply the stain. Srippers damage the wood, the wood grain, and the way that wood takes stain. As many will show you, you can still get a great end product, but it takes a lot more time and effort.
And finally, you probably need to use wood bleach to even the blotchyness you have left on you gun. If you are down to the wood and still see light and dark areas, no amount of sanding will work. You will need some bleach.
Just a thought :hmm:
rafterob
62 Cal.
That beechwood absorbs the stain pretty irregularly, some spots deeper than others. I had the issue with a Frontier that someone else botched badly. Sanded most of it out to the point where the remaining just "antiqued" the new finish some. If it is like my mountain rifle, there is quite a bit of extra wood to work with and sanding should not be an issue. Just be careful at the nose piece and butt plate.
Thanks for the advice. I did end up lightly sanding and I did get most of the blotchness out. It is now stained with Dangler's stains. There are 2 coats of reddish brown and 3 coats of golden brown stain on. I rub each coat back steel 0000 steel wool and each color change gets rubbed with alcohol, to even out each color. I find the color real pleasing. I now also have 2 coats Tru-Oil and it is looking pretty good.
