Stiff Belt Fix???

[VTdeerhunter]

One of my latest project is a new belt. Its a good thing that I like the "handmade look" since it's pretty obvious that I'm much better with metal and wood then with leather......anyway I'll explain how I got to the point I'm at and ask those of you with more experience (compared to my none) for some way to soften up the awful stiff leather.....

Started with some 8oz double shoulder tooling leather, trimmed my piece to 3" and beveled the edges.

Trimmed the area to fit the buckle I made (round stock pounded into an oval then formed into a "D" shape and polished smooth on the buffer wheel, added a horseshoe nail for the tab).....skived the leather to fit better around the buckle and punched the rivet holes.

A couple of scrap pieces cut to the right length for belt loops (not the same width, but works for me)

"Dry fit" to make the final holes for the rivets. Captured one of the belt loops with the same rivets that hold on the buckle, let the other one slide.

Used a store bought water based leather dye in dark mahogany...could not believe how much dye the leather sucked up....after all the work polishing the buckle, I decided that I hated the shiny look, threw it back in the forge, heated it up and into the quench bucket...kinda fake case hard look now...perfect

Here we are today....a belt that is so stiff it drives my belt axe into my liver when I sit down and carves notches into my hip bones.....HELP oh leather working gods...I think my hips will wear out before it softens up through use, what can I do to help break it in, already tried mink oil...not a noticeable improvement

 

[Black Hand]

First, you could stand to narrow it somewhat. Belts of the Fur Trade period were usually 2" or less. Oiling the leather and working it will help to soften it. But as with any other leather product, it will take some time to break it in and the stiffness may never totally go away.

The other option - Make another belt. Oil-tanned leather by nature (as you already know) is much softer. You might consider sewing instead of rivets. Those modern hollow rivets stand out.

 

[BrownBear]

Quick and easy way I soften belts is to pass it behind a standing pipe, then grab an end in each hand and "saw" it back and forth across the pipe for a few seconds. Kind of like the guys polishing shoes at a shoeshine stand. Done.

 

[SpottedBull]

Work it, work it, work it! Veg tan is stiff but when its dyed its even stiffer! I would try to rinse some of the dye out of the leather with water. Then when the day is done and you are in the easy chair watching tv (if you get that kinda time) then start at one end and work it back and forth, back and forth, rolling it and unrolling it. Believe me, veg tan leather can get as soft as oil tanned, but it takes a while. Use a good oil too, that will help. I agree with the comment about the rivets...sewing will look much better. Nice buckle too!

 

[crockett]

I think I would first try the pipe method rather than any sort of softener. If I recall, a lot of leather dye is alcohol based and the oil in a softener may cause the dye/stain to leech out and this may go on while you are wearing clothes- and stain the clothes. I'd work the belt over the pipe.
On a future belt- consider using vinegaroon(sic?)- the recipe has been given in the past. It is pc and doesn't dry out the leather.

 

[LRB]

Vinegaroon will dry the leather out some, just as water will. To a degree. Black Hand gave some good advice. All the way, but oil tan is not absolutely necessary. Good, but vege-tan does very well when oiled and worked. It doesn't seem to stretch as oil tanned does. As Black Hand said, 2" wide is about max, although wider belts may be found in reference. I don't really know, but I suspect a 3" belt might be pretty rare historically.

 

[LaBonte]

The other option - Make another belt. Oil-tanned leather by nature (as you already know) is much softer.

Just an FYI - the vast majority of "modern" oil tan is not true oil tan (an exception is the German tand available form Crazy Crow and others) but rather it is technically what is known in the trade as oil-retan - chrome tanned leather finished with heavy oil - this includes most latigo.
A word of caution - when oiling veg/bark tan do it with several light coats - it should never be more than about 22% oil content over that it breaks down the cell walls of the leather, degrading the leather a leading causing of failure.

 

[AWsaddles]

I agree with spotted bull, work it work it and then work it some more. I usually give about three or four coats of neats foot oil before I dye. Most of your leather dye is alcohol bases and and when applied can make your leather as stiff as a bull horn. Pre oiling it seems to help offset the effect . Still nothing that a little time and elbow grease won't fix.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I would soak (yes, "soak") completely in Neatsfoot oil. I have used both pure and with silicone added. Can see no difference between the two. Have had great luck with both. Preserves leather well. I have items decades old and much used that are in great shape.
Only caveat: let hang and dry well before use or your clothes will get stained orange.