Steel for triggers?

[dylan84]

It is hard to go wrong with 4140 alloy steel. For small parts like that the price difference isn't really a consideration. It machines nicer and can be treated a number of ways. For most apps it can be left annealed as it is pretty tough already. Otherwise low carbon steel that is case hardened as others said or 1045 steel would be way better.

 

[Scota@4570]

"Always wanted a decent milling machine."

Me too, I have a late '30s or WW2, Wells Index vertical mill. It is a dinosaur. I want a nice newer Bridgeport some day. For now it is much better I could do otherwise.

 

[Rich44]

O-1 Tool steel is an extremely versatile and multipurpose steel.
I use it all the time, can be hardened and drawn back with great results.
If the time is being put into making I want the good stuff.

 

[LRB]

O-1 Tool steel is an extremely versatile and multipurpose steel.
I use it all the time, can be hardened and drawn back with great results.
If the time is being put into making I want the good stuff.

A good choice for wear resistance when desired after heat treat, but not a multipurpose steel. It has a tendency to air harden once brought to austenitizing heat and let to cool. Not always problematic, but enough to resist the file a tad and be brittle. Long time back I forge shaped a piece to be a scrolled knife guard. Got it on the blade and gave it a just a slight tweak to one of the curled tip and it broke. Snapped like a dry twig. Not a good steel for all purpose use if heat will be involved in its shaping with no further heat treat. I tested a few pieces of it and once brought to a red heat and cooled it will be brittle.

 

[stank]

I use 1095 for just about everything. Harden and draw back as needed

 

[longcruise]

Regarding drawing back. I can do this carefully with a torch but wondering where it might land simply using the kitchen oven at 500*. Using 1075?

 

[Red Owl]

If it is a simple trigger the tail on the thing just pushes up the sear arm- there isn't any crisp lock work like on a set or modern trigger- why worry about hardening it?

 

[LRB]

Regarding drawing back. I can do this carefully with a torch but wondering where it might land simply using the kitchen oven at 500*. Using 1075?

Should be OK.

I use 1095 for just about everything. Harden and draw back as needed

A better choice would be 1080/84. 1095 is not as easy to properly harden as you may think. It is a born liar when partnered with a file test. The file may skate but if not properly hardened it will be skating over hard spots with these being surrounded with pearlite (a softer structure of ferrite and cementite) Picture a lake with bunches of islands. The water is pearlite, the islands are Martensite, carbides, (the hard phase of steel). A file will skate over the spots of Martensite leading you to believe all is well when in reality the pearlite will allow the steel to wear down faster than it should. A ball of modeling clay mixed with a fine gravel. If you rub it, the clay (pearlite) will give and allow the gravel (carbides) to become freed or shifted aside and of little use.

 

[TDM]

Very much agree @LRB

 

[Red Owl]

I'm always amazed at your knowledge. I make knives by stock removal and mail off for tempering so I never get into the blade smith aspect. I tried the one brick forge and I heated up to yellow so it would be easy to work and I burnt out the carbon. I'd like to learn more on steel, that is things like Martensite, etc. are there any books covering these topics? Thanks.

 

[Scota@4570]

This is a very low stress part. IF the junk bucket did not provide, I would select the most workable alloy for how you will make it. For me that is leaded free machining steel. IF you are going to forge a trigger shoe then a low carbon mild steel may be good. I have never tried to forge leaded steal.

I try not to buy steel except for applications where it matters. That is normally just lock making.

When I go to a steel sales place in my area I explain I am a hobbyist. I ask for "shorts" and scrap. They usually give me lots of steel to play with.

 

[ZUG]

I use low carbon weldable steels that I buy either from a "box store" or my local welding shop. After I form it to the shape I want I then case harden and temper the top of the trigger portion that comes in contact with the sear. This I find is the best way to go for me.

 

[longcruise]

I would like to just case harden and be done with it but for my purposes it would involve the old school methods that regardless of the fun factor is more than I want to do for one trigger at a time!! Nor do I want to invest in a four lifetime's supply of that stuff that replaced Kasenit.

 

[deerstalkert]

I would like to just case harden and be done with it but for my purposes it would involve the old school methods that regardless of the fun factor is more than I want to do for one trigger at a time!! Nor do I want to invest in a four lifetime's supply of that stuff that replaced Kasenit.

TOTW sells a small tin of it.

 

[longcruise]

TOTW sells a small tin of it.

I'm going to look at that. Thanks.

 

[longcruise]

The True Spark looks like a good alternative also. You guys are turning me into a human pendulum.

 

[deerstalkert]

The True Spark looks like a good alternative also. You guys are turning me into a human pendulum.

just stick around and sooner than later you will be broke like me from all the fun stuff everybody turns us on to.

 

[oldwood]

Don't know what steel their made from, but steel electrical boxes make good single triggers , and trigger plates. They solder nice , too.

 

[Ohio Rusty]

I use an electrical box filled with vermiculite to normalize (heat then soften) metal items I am forging. This box was just the right size for this. 1075 or 1080 would be a good choice for making rifle parts as it will file and sand fairly easy. My preference for knife blades.
Ohio Rusty ><>