• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Polishing a lock

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bonedigger67

32 Cal
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Messages
5
Reaction score
3
Location
Northern Ohio
Hey, all.

So, I've never polished a lock, before as I always had them sent to a friend who would polish and engrave them.

Now, he no longer does that and I'm looking at my new round face like it's the Plague. 😆 I have no clue why this is scaring me, but, it would most likely be easier if I could find instructions or possibly a video on how it's done.

Anybody out there have any suggestions? Outside of just do it and learn. Heh..I know I can just jump in and tackle it, blind. However, I'd like at least a little bit of foreknowledge.

Thanks in advance..

D
 
Hi Bonedigger67,
I use a combination of files, sandpaper, scotchbrite pads, wire brush wheels, and maybe buffing wheels (if I want it shiny to be left in the white). The wire wheels are a great time saver and give a nice even finish.

This process is only done on the outside of the lock plate and parts (Not on any parts on the inside). I do polish the inside of lockplate and any parts that touch with buffing wheels. This of course helps improve the lock speed.

Roll your sleeves up and go for it!

Jack
 
Good advice above. I polish the inside and internal with care not to alter dimensions.
Places to be careful on exterior:
Frizzen and pan where the frizzen pivot bolt is situated. Do not narrow the frizzen toe or widen a pan bridle slot if present.
Frizzen pan cover and top shelf of pan. Do not create a gap when the frizzen is closed.

Internals:
Polish the sear arm where the sear spring rides on it but do not polish the sides of the sear enough to change dimensions and make it free to wiggle under the bridle. Same for any polishing of the inside of the bridle, the ends of its legs, and the tumbler. If one dimension changes, all the others must be made to match so that the bridle holds everything in place but does not squeeze the tumbler or sear arm when the screws are tightened down.

Polish the contact areas between mainspring hook and tumbler.

When done polishing the lockplate take q-tips and pull cotton off till they can just fit in all screw holes and twirl any grit from abrasives out.
 
Back
Top