Point of aim movement

[M. De Land]

Was he the motel guy?

Now that's funny Mr. "Psycho" !

 

[M. De Land]

It would pobably be a good idea to file a bit of lead angle on both sides of the file cut where the key width is re-leaved for the staple end in case you have any slop in the keys wood channel ( for and aft) that might alow the filed key corner to hook the end of the staple while inserting or removing.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

A binding pin will throw off your point of impact.

It also may crack your stock over time.....

LD

 

[M. De Land]

It would pobably be a good idea to file a bit of lead angle on both sides of the file cut where the key width is re-leaved for the staple end in case you have any slop in the keys wood channel ( for and aft) that might alow the filed key corner to hook the end of the staple while inserting or removing.

Actually, thinking on it some more , just use a round file to make the cut in either side of the key. I'm kind of slow at times!

 

[M. De Land]

I will do it soon and post a picture. It simply is key width removal on both sides (for and aft) between the staple ends when the key is fully inserted. Think of an hour glass shape. It only requires perhaps .010 on either side and can easily be done with a file.

Here are the pictures of the key alterations. Took all of ten minutes.:

 

[M. De Land]

When I pulled the keys to make the clearance cuts I noticed that at least two of them were making contact wth the end of the staple leg. I had to put a bit of down ward bend in the muzzle key to bring up the tension on it in the staple loop once the clearance was cut on the sides.
Sorry about the doubles, I haven't got all the nuance of this picture posting thing worked out yet.
OK, got a little instruction and got er fixed.

 

[M. De Land]

When I pulled the keys to make the clearance cuts I noticed that at least two of them were making contact wth the end of the staple leg. I had to put a bit of down ward bend in the muzzle key to bring up the tension on it in the staple loop once the clearance was cut on the sides.
Sorry about the doubles, I haven't got all the nuance of this picture posting thing worked out yet.
OK, got a little instruction and got er fixed.

Sure glad I handn't put in the key keep pins through the lateral slots in the keys. Really no need for them if the keys are tension-ed properly as I have never lost one in any of my rifles that have them.

 

[Britsmoothy]

It will be good to see how it shoots now.
B.

 

[RAEDWALD]

For pins you must widen the hole maybe a 1/16" inch on both sides. It doesn't take much. Make sure the pin doesn't bind.

As an experiment you can pull the pins from a gun that has started "wandering" with a hot barrel. You will find that it will shoot better. Remember, the pins are only there to hold the forearm of the stock to the barrel so there is a place to hold the ramrod.

I just took a look at my original Bess barrel and they are just that. 1/16".

 

[Mark Herman]

I know Norman well and can see him doing that. We had a local shooter who built a Hawken and taped the barrel in with masking tape, no finish on the rifle. He was deadly for a number of years.

 

[GREENSWLDE]

Always thought Cellotape is better. Only when others get close do they see you are too lazy to bother with Keys..OLD DOG..