plastikosmd said:I have always liked that bullet apple photo. I always found the outward flared skin on the entrance interesting as I would not have assumed the photo would have looked like this if I had to guess
BrownBear said:I have to think that if stopping the bullet flattens the nose, that will result in "obturation" far greater than anything that happens in the barrel, especially for a round ball. When the nose flattens, the displaced lead has to go somewhere. If obturation occurs due to the explosion of the powder, imagine how much obturation will occur with a sudden stop. The only ball I ever recovered from a deer obturated from .530 to about .978! :rotf:
I kinda wonder too if forces are great enough to obturate the bullet in the bore and leave patch weave marks on the sides of the bullet, howcum there is no weave marking on the back of the bullet. Seems as though that explosion would cause the patch to indent pretty good, especially since the "ideal" recovered patches are still intact in the middle.
Uhmmm, not sure...seems like unless the larger diameter ball actually results in flattening the sides of the ball a bit to engage more patch material...instead of simply compressing the patch material a little more thinner...there would still only be one precise equator around the ball...but I'm no authority on this at allPletch said:For instance suppose I short start a .526 and a .535 ball in my .54 with the same patching and then pull them out. Does it make sense to you that the length of cloth marks will be longer on teh .535 than the .526?
BrownBear said:I kinda wonder too if forces are great enough to obturate the bullet in the bore and leave patch weave marks on the sides of the bullet, howcum there is no weave marking on the back of the bullet. Seems as though that explosion would cause the patch to indent pretty good, especially since the "ideal" recovered patches are still intact in the middle.
I agree. I have to drive my 540 gr pp bullet pretty hard to slice up the patch.medic302 said:the only bullets i can think of that would work at low speeds would be paper patched hex bullets, but, that wouldn't tell you much about obturation and conventional land/groove rifling. as far as stopping bullets, how about ballistics gelatin? make some in several buckets, then line up the unbucketed cylinders and shoot. i'd be good for cold weather, and should stop the bullet unscathed.
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