Lyman Great Plains Rifle questions

[airborne1]

A while back I started a thread asking opinions on what caliber gpr I should order for hunting deer, .54, or .50 cal. I have decided on the .54 cal percussion with the prb twist of 1 in 60. I thank you all for your opinions. It could possibly be a couple of weeks before the rifle is in, and I would like more of your opinions on items I should buy and processes you may use in cleaning.
1. Does this rifle have a patent breech? If so, what size brush do I need for cleaning it? Would a chamber scraper be of use?

I have some of the basic items needed such as: short starter, capper, measure powder flask, caps, pyrodex only at this time, and patches, moosemilk, etc.

I know I should be ordering a range rod and anything else that you folks might suggest. As always, thank you for your time and knowledge. By the way, I can't hardly wait for my rifle to arrive!!!

 

[Grimord]

You have made a great choice for a hunting rifle and caliber. One thing I would suggest is that you use Mink oil or Bear grease for patch lube if your hunting is in areas where it may be below freezing. These patch lubes will not freeze like moose milk can. A patched ball frozen to the inside of the barrel acts as an obstruction and could blow up the gun and harm you in the process.

 

[Maven]

"I know I should be ordering a range rod and anything else that you folks might suggest. As always, thank you for your time and knowledge. By the way, I can't hardly wait for my rifle to arrive!!!"

Go to the R. Rice barrels site and look for his newly introduced range rods. They come in several different lengths, are stainless steel, and come with a muzzle protector. They're also very reasonably priced.

 

[jamieorr]

You'll receive a Lyman manual as well. They suggest a 45 Cal brush for the breech. I found this a bit tight in my 50 Cal as all the bristles were pressed back, leaving the last 1/2 inch unbrushed. I overcame that by wrapping a cleaning patch around the brush with a rattail of rolled patch sticking out. That goes nicely into the breech and wipes out the crud.

I'll buy a smaller brush as soon as I find one where the wire doesn't stick out farther than the brush.

You'll like the Lyman, be sure to get all the greasy gunk out of it before firing it. Clean it really well then do it again.

Merry Christmas,

Jamie,
A satisfied Lyman customer!

 

[Gene L]

I think they're fine rifles. Mine is .50 caliber and is quite accurate.

I think they come with an artificail ramrod that's threaded on one end for tools. I'd highly suggest a range rod, though. Makes cleaning a lot easier. I glued an old ceramic door knob on my range rod, easier on the hand. I know a guy who bored a hole in a cue ball; made a great rod.

I was loading my .32 rifle with a wooden rod, and it snapped, driving a gouge in my hand. Kinda cured me from going all natural, all the time.

 

[galamb]

As noted, the rifle will have a hooked patent breech. I found that a .410 shotgun brush (the brass ones) work into the chamber rather well.

And as Jamie mentioned, do take it all down and clean up all the packing grease - it's almost like Vaseline and can be a bit of a booger to get all cleaned up.

The Lyman's do not seem to have the powder bridging problems in their patent chambers like some other do - I never had an issue with my Lyman in the ten or so years that I owned it.

If you don't have a local source for bits/pieces for it, you may want to pick up a spare pack of nipples. The T/C stuff won't fit either will the Traditions. The Lyman nipples are their own metric thread.

I tend to change my nipples once a year (unless the gun has really been sitting) - you can kinda clean up the nipple with a file when it starts getting "squooshed", but to ensure trouble free ignition I just find it better to swap in a new nipple at the start of the season - and they are cheap enough that it's worth doing.

Do also get yourself a patch worm and a decent ball puller (screw type). I'm not a big fan of the bore swabs, but a kit such as this from Traditions does give you everything you need to get started.

 

[jamieorr]

Before buying the accessories, check your rods to see if you want male or female ends on the accessories. The Lyman rod has a female end for male accessories, my range rod is the other way around. I didn't know this, but adapters are available, luckily!

Accessories also come in 8x32 while you will want 10x32 for the Lyman rod. Again, adapters are available - ask me how I know.

Jamie

 

[coloradoclyde]

Here is an advance copy of your owners manual...
It might answer a lot of your questions...
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...g6Twz6OgYp9xfeq_C-hlig&bvm=bv.110151844,d.eWE
Also, regarding the breech.....

Cleaning Note Note: The powder channel inside the breech plug is smaller than the bore diameter and does not allow the cleaning jag to enter. Lyman recommends the use of a .38 cal. cleaning brush and/or a slotted tip cleaning rod to reach into this area.

 

[Boomerang]

I think you made a good choice on rifle and caliber. I recently bought the same one and I get to open it Christmas day. :grin:

 

[jethro224]

A .36 caliber brush with a cleaning patch over it works well to clean the breech.

Track of the Wolf sells a good range rod. Get a fixed handle, not the rotating version.

PIN YOUR RAMROD ENDS! The factory doesn't.

Do yourself a favor and get some good replacement nipples right now. 6x.75 thread. Just toss the factory one.

The fixed primitive rear sight gives a much better sight picture and stays put better than the adjustable one. It will be real loose in the dovetail. Either peen the edges of the sight or the dovetail to fit. I wish I had done this before I ever shot mine it was such an improvement.

My .54 likes 80-85 grains of 3F Goex under a .530 ball with a .020 patch.

You will like your new rifle. :thumbsup: Have fun.

 

[AZbpBurner]

Before you use that brush everyone is telling you about, you amy want to ask about removing the stuck brush from your bore, and especially how to remove one stuck within your patent breech when it separates from the end threaded into the rod.

Personally I've been lucky and have been able to retrieve a stuck bronze brush. It was long ago & left a definite impression of how I want to avoid repeating the problem ever again.

Really, there's no need for a bronze brush in any muzzleloader rifle, even with a patent breech. If any brush makes you feel better about cleaning, get a nylon bristle brush. Personally, I use a slotted 30 cal. patch jag and oversized patch to wipe out all my patent breeches, and that is only to remove residual WD-40 used to displace water from cleaning & to apply Barricade.

It's good to know how to proceed when you decide to do it anyway, thinking "It'll never happen to me" ... and then it does anyway.

 

[AZbpBurner]

You did well choosing the .54 cal option. You'll find it retains a little more energy out to distance and is much easier to work up accurate 100 yard loads than .50 cal.

Build a range rod. You can get blanks and your choice of any ends for it from Track of the Wolf. You will break a wooden rod if you either grab it too far from the muzzle, or don't ram in-line with the bore. When flexed, wooden rods can break. Proper technique outweighs the need for some lesser material rod such as metal or synthetic. I have rods I use regularly that are over 30 - 45 years old, and they need neither kerosine, or any voo doo to make them work right - just push straight down in line with the bore in increments.

I've used a patch lube made of tallow & beeswax for over 40 years & regarded it as among the best stuff for my shooting. But about a year ago I began using "dry" patches treated with a mix of 5 parts Denatured alcohol to 1 part Castor Oil. The DA evaporates and leaves a fine and evenly distributed amount of Castor oil, which resists fouling build-up better than anything I've ever used, and in any temperature ranges. I use it for musket and fowler wads, too, and nothing can touch it for smooth and clean loading throughout a shooting day.

Best way to find the best materials for your shooting preference is to try several different methods and materials to discover for yourself what works best.

And once you have your technique down, then you'll be ready to try a flintlock, so you won't have to deal with all that nipple and cap foolishness :rotf:

 

[airborne1]

Clyde, thanks for the link, great info! I would like to thank all who responded and know that I appreciate all opinions. Also, I would like to wish all a merry Xmas and a happy new year!

Bill

 

[BrownBear]

Do yourself a favor and get some good replacement nipples right now. 6x.75 thread. Just toss the factory one.

The fixed primitive rear sight gives a much better sight picture and stays put better than the adjustable one. It will be real loose in the dovetail. Either peen the edges of the sight or the dovetail to fit. I wish I had done this before I ever shot mine it was such an improvement.

Dumping the factory nipple is about the best advice in this long string of good advice points. Those Lyman nipples simply don't like CCI caps, and have lots of misfires.

As for "custom fitting" that primitive rear sight, I like another method. Open the jaws of your bench vise just wide enough for the sight blade to drop in while supporting base and exposing the bottom surface. Use a punch to dimple it deeply in several places so craters with rims form. When you drive the sight into the dovetail, the rims crush back down a little to fit while giving a real tight, secure fit. Takes about 30 seconds, but lasts for decades.

I'll add one more point, actually a related pair. The edges of the rifling and the crown of the muzzle tend to be real sharp on Lyman barrels. They'll cut patches and destroy accuracy at first.

You can take a couple of different approaches:

1. Just shoot it, and after 200-300 shots everything will wear down just enough for accuracy to really jump. Fun to do so much shooting, and if you're a little patient, fun to see accuracy suddenly soar.

2. If you're not so patient, take a little piece of 320 grit emery or sandpaper and lay it over the muzzle. Press down firmly with the ball of your thumb and rotate half a dozen times. The sharp muzzle crown is dealt with neatly and cleanly. Next cut a tab of one of those green Scotch cleaning pads about 1" square. Lay that over the muzzle and use your rod with a jag to push it down into the bore (hard at first). Now "pump" it in and out a couple or three dozen times. The sharp edges of the rifling are smoothed, and you should quit cutting patches.

 

[ravenousfishing]

When the above posters say clean the new barrel, they mean CLEAN the barrel. Use something like brake cleaner to really get out the goop that Lyman ships them with.
I am also much happier after I replaced the front sight with a silver bladed version from TOW. It is much easier to see in low light in the deer woods.
Good Luck with your new rifle and Merry Christmas.

 

[Gene L]

I ought to know this, but who makes the LGPR?

 

[necchi]

Investarms, Italian

 

[airborne1]

What after market nipples and range rod would you recommend?

 

[Gene L]

TOW sells them. They're metric sized. I recently got a couple from there. If you look at the catalog it'll tell you the ones suitable for your rifle.

I think RRs of the same material are pretty well all suitable. I'm not so sure a 1/2" dowel from the hardware store, (ramin wood) wouldn't work fine if you don't bear too heavy on them. After spearing myself on a wooden ram rod, I'm a bit cautious, but a 1/2" ramin rod is pretty strong.

These used to be maple, but in the last 20 years, at least, I think they all come from the Philippines from indigenous wood over there.

I used to make arrows out of them. The would vary in weight and spine, and you can sometimes determine the weight by hand. If you flex them in the store, you'll soon see the suitable ones.

 

[joe4702]

I like solid brass range rods. October Country sells a number of nice ones, as does The Possible Shop (I own rods from both these vendors).