lock/barrel location

[Docwilly]

I decided to make a flintlock, stuff is on the way,
I will make my own liner out of high performance copper alloy( because of the thermoconductivity of the material & anti-sieze qualities), But where do I place the lock in reference to the flash hole (liner) the stock is not inletted & I have decided to put a L&R "Burrs egg" flinter in, because of the small caliber (36 cal). does anyone have a drawing they would or could share? Or should I just set the barrel & send it off & have it inletted? Opinions -thoughts anyone??

Please advise
Docwilly

[email protected]

 

Docwilly, If I understand your question properly, (lock, barrel, touch hole relationship)this is how I do it. First you have to locate the face of the breech plug. Pull the plug, and measure the length of the plug (how far into the barrel it goes). mark the side of the barrel with a pencil, add 1/16" and scribe a vertical line. Draw a horizontal line in the center of the flat where the lock fits against the barrel. This is where you will want the trouch hole but do not drill it yet. You will need to dress the stock down close to the finished thickness and cut out for the bolster first. To determine how much wood to leave, Take a caliper and measure the thickness of the lockplate at the bolster, just in front of or behind the pan, and add 1/32" for now. You will take it to finished thickness after the lock is inlet. Line up the lockplate so the horizontal scribe line on the barrel runs right along the top of the pan and the vertical line is in the middle of the pan. This is where you want to inlet the lock. After the lock is inlet, then you can finalize your touch hole placement. you want it level with the top of the pan and in the middle of the pan. This is more important than the holes relationship to the breech plug and drilling the hole after the lock is in allows you to position it in proper relationship to the lock. The reason for marking it 1/16" ahead of the breech plug is that, with a 1/8" liner, the rear edge of the liner will be right at the face of the plug. If the lock ends up a shade too far back, no sweat, you will just need to file a notch in the face of the breech plug to give the powder better access to the flash liner. Hope this helps

Cody

 

Sorry, the barrel and tang are inlet before any of the above post applies

Cody

 

[tg]

How often are the copper alloy liners used I have not heard of them before? and how many folks out there remove the liner when cleaning. I have always left mine in and in some of my guns file off any slot during the fitting stage of liner instalation to flush the liner with the barrel, I have seen a lot of disagrement on this one, but I have never seen the need to remove one for cleaning.

 

[Docwilly]

TG: Copper alloy's are commonly no used fo this, however the only thing similar it that they are making Ampco(aluminum-bronze) nipples for percussion guns. I work with the stuff & its tough, wear resistant. I thought it wouldnt hurt to try it??

 

[musketman]

You said a "COPPER ALLOY", What is the copper mixed with to make the alloy?

Tin?
Zinc?

The copper alloy could transfur an static-electrical charge and set off the main powder charge, after all, wires are copper too.

Just a thought...

 

[Randy]

Static is not a problem since the liner is tightly screwed into a large piece of steel (barrel). Most liners nowdays are made out of AMPCO or Stainless Steel.
Corrosion was the big issue way back when. Steel or iron would rust and make the hole bigger. This usually happened faster than enlargement from hot gasses rushing through it. Platinum was a metal used on better guns for liners.
I too file off the liner flush with the barrel removing the screw slot or whatever was used to install it. If I'm so lucky to shoot enough to wear one out I think I'll get out the drill and easy-out and install a new one. Cost is only $2 or $3.

Docwilly:
I reccomend installing the lock yourself if you have any talent at all. Very satisfying to shoot a gun you built. If you need any tips try one of these books. "Recreating the American Longrifle" published by George Shumway or "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle" by Chuck Dixon. Both address lock and touch hole placement and about every other problem encountered in building a flintlock.

Horse Dr.

 

[Docwilly]

The copper alloy, I have spoke of is usually refered to as "mold max" (tradename) there are several different mfg's. I do not know the exact chemical composition & metalurgy, If you want I will look it up. For us "old timers" in my trade we call it Berylium Copper, but the EPA made them quit putting Berylium in it. I guess its like asbestos, just kill ya dead over a long period of time. The average rockwell hardness is 28-34, & the "high hard" rockwell runs 36-38 about the same as 4140 prehard carbon and or slightly less. All I know is that plastic Inj. molds the stuff is invaluable in transfering heat, chemical resistance, & abrasion resistance, so I thought Id try it. Yes it probably transfers electricity more than steel, but the steel mass would be greater, so if I get charged , Ill take it out & make a stainless one.
Im not a chemist by far, just an avid fan of old ways, mixed with a few new components & I do not want to offend anyone, please dont take offense.
And believe me , Im not always right, Ive been a moldmaker for 25 years & after that long of looking at things backwards, you kinda think in reverse. But Im always looking for advise & I take seriously everyone's suggestions. By the way the barrel I made for the .36 Im doing is made out of A-2 RC 48 soft, shouldnt wear much , should it?
A friend of mine rifled it & its within .0002" on the diameters from front to back. I just want to pop a couple yard bunnies with it

 

[tg]

I would not be concerened about static electricity and BP you can buy BP in plastic bags, the story of it blowing up due to static charges is a myth. I have one tapered round barreled .72 fowler with a large hole without a liner and it works real well, The next gun I have will not have a liner, they were used in originals but not to anywhere near the extent that they are today on new guns, some students of guns feel that the more common repair for a burned out hole was to shorten/rebreach and drill a new hole. Most of the unaltered originals have no liners. Coning on the inside was still possible with a special tool.I have talked to several builders who have duplicated the old guns not useing liners an they report very fast ignition, but liners in new guns is the standard today even though not really historicaly correct for 18th century guns.

 

A liner can be made of the same soft iron as the barrel, put a slight coutersink in the barrel hole, screw it in tight and peen it tightly into the countersink. When the excess is filed off there will be no line showing that a liner was installed. It will look like a plain hole but have the advantages of an inner cone.

Cody

 

[musketman]

A note on Beryllium:

As an industrial material, beryllium possesses some uncommon qualities such as its ability to withstand extreme heat, remain stable over a wide range of temperatures, and function as an excellent thermal conductor. These attributes make it a unique material suitable for a host of diverse, demanding applications.

Beryllium's physical and mechanical properties are unmatched by any other metal. For many industries, beryllium isn't simply the material of choice, it's the only suitable material for the job.

Combining beryllium with metals such as copper, nickel or aluminum significantly enhances their performance properties.


Chronic beryllium disease, or ***, is an inflammation in the lungs that can occur when a person is exposed to respirable beryllium fumes, dusts or powder, and subsequently demonstrates an allergic reaction to beryllium. *** is an occupational disease that may occur in the manufacture of metallic beryllium, beryllium oxide ceramic, or alloys containing beryllium. It was first identified more than 50 years ago.

Not everyone who is exposed to beryllium fumes, dusts or powder will develop ***; most people do not. Researchers now believe that the tendency to develop *** is genetically determined and results from an allergic sensitivity. Some individuals develop an allergy to beryllium upon exposure and are, therefore, more likely to develop ***.

 

[2172]

TQ...I don't know of anyone who takes out a liner for ordinary cleaning. Mine comes out about every 18 months to get some powder behind a dry loaded ball (I know, I know, first the powder, then the ball, but I'm the club treasurer and people come to transact business while I'm loading)...Best, Hank