• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Loading up for my 1863 Sharps ‘paper cutter’ percussion

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Dec 30, 2004
Messages
4,473
Reaction score
6,111
Location
New England
Intro - Before I start, I would like to publicly acknowledge and thank Dave951 for his many posts about these Sharps rifles, plus for being so kind as to answer my PM messages and questions.

I had recently picked up a MINT 1863 Sharps by IAB for only $500, from a local ‘toy store’ that has no idea about the older BP arms. I didn’t have one, always thought about getting one … and have a good 1,000 RWS musket caps left to me by my late Uncle to use up … so it was a no brainer.

1864 Sharps 54-cal Loads: Left to Right

1 - Unsized bullet, 0.544 as cast, $0.50 each
2 - Same in $0.18 paper tube 'as a handle' to lube the TOP 2 lube grooves & keep lube out of under-sized ring-tail @ bottom
3 - Lubed, not sized, 50:50 Beeswax & Olive Oil
4 - Sized to 0.540", bore measures 537-538
5 - Sized - ready to shoot - 45-grns 3Fg powdah
*Paper tube 'glued' to ring-tail on bullet by clear nail polish, as that makes a 'fragile' connection that cracks apart when fired, where paper tube totally exits the bore.
6 - Rubber tube for shooting Minie or Roundball load, w/ loose powdah in the red tube. Use wood dowel to seat the round.
*Rear of paper tube sealed w/ tissue paper on end, where musket cap power just blows right through it to ignite the powdah.

1D7454DD-3D0D-487D-B865-2C537A2A4F61.jpeg


For lube, my choice is a 50/50 mix of beeswax & olive oil. I make it in cakes as shown & just used a Hahn paper as a ‘handle’ to rub the lube cake against the 2 top lube grooves. This keeps wax off the ‘ring tail’ & it goes fast! I lube (20) in 5-minutes or less and I’d still be waiting for the wax lube cake to melt, if using a double-boiler, LOL!

7E08CBDE-9B79-4695-B7A2-D1CB94E23D2F.jpeg


Yeah, some lube after loading, but I put them through my sizer die after lubing.

I bought a 3/4" craft hole punch from eBay for $8 shipped & cut out a zillion 3/4" circles of combustible reefer paper disks in seconds, 10-sheets at a whack as it is so thin.

4B453697-D82D-4B1E-861D-1E188BDF960F.jpeg


Then I thinned Elmer's white glue with water & 'painted' the ends of the 18-cent 54-cal paper tubes. Set the disk on wax paper, press the tube against lightly & let dry.

I painted around the interface of the tube end & paper & insert into plastic die. Presto! Hard paper cartridges to fill w/ powdah!

AE37C9FD-0042-4FF1-8C09-7817E4AF8D42.jpeg


As a bonus, when trying different powders & grains, you can mark the tubes w/ a Sharpie.

Pretty cool huh? Yeah ... a bit MORE of a loading process than your typical muzzleloading, LOL! Cost me about $1.04 per shot, $21/20-shots. Yeah, if I cast my own I could lower the bullet proce, about 50-cents each from commercial sources.

27C01273-9934-4610-8FD5-F3440A5B88EC.jpeg


No range time - yet! Maybe next week ...

I also intend to try Phil Coffin’s roundball load over loose powdah … after I get some > 0.530” roundballs, which is all I have on hand …
 
Last edited:
Hi Flint

WOW!! Congrats. Looks like you are starting out ahead of the game. LOL Thanks for posting - and the great pics. And I noticed you are starting out with about 45 grains of FFFG powder, which seems about right from what I've read. It also seems that the Hahn tubes won't really hold more powder than that (?)

A question: From your reading, do shooters of the Sharps percussion rifles prefer 3F versus 2F in their guns ?

Rick
 
Did you think to slug the bore to confirm bore size? I have 2 IABs and both measure .550. If yours is the same, I wouldn't expect much in the way of accuracy. Just cuz it says .540 on a repop, doesn't make it so.
 
Did you think to slug the bore to confirm bore size? I have 2 IABs and both measure .550. If yours is the same, I wouldn't expect much in the way of accuracy. Just cuz it says .540 on a repop, doesn't make it so.
Of course I slugged it, 1st thing I did, as you taught us grasshoppers well, plus I had even sent you a PM about my bore being smaller than your IABs.
 
Of course I slugged it, 1st thing I did, as you taught us grasshoppers well, plus I had even sent you a PM about my bore being smaller than your IABs.
Having spent much time working with kids, I have a habit of repetition on instructions :D
 
Well done! Now that's a great job and a great explanation. 👏🙌
My caliber is .541" (Pedersoli) and I use 50 grains of 3Fg (PNF1).
Hahn tubes can't be found in Absurdistan, so, by default, manufacturing with saltpeter-treated Kraft paper works well.
Intrusive question: what kind of lead do you normally use?

Cartouches.png


I think I'm going to be doing nothing but bullets for all my rifles and Sharps cartridges for a while: Absurdistan has just been put into a quasi-"State of Emergency" for who knows how long: shooting clubs are closed, no weapons transport, and possibly Internet ban later (social networks are already affected)...
- https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/2023/07/01/france-riots-nanterre-nahel-funeral/
- https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/2023/06/30/nahel-france-protest-macron-police/
The country will be paralyzed for some time yet, so bullets and cartridges will have to be manufactured and weapons maintained before they can be used...
 
Well done! Now that's a great job and a great explanation. 👏🙌
My caliber is .541" (Pedersoli) and I use 50 grains of 3Fg (PNF1).
Hahn tubes can't be found in Absurdistan, so, by default, manufacturing with saltpeter-treated Kraft paper works well.
Intrusive question: what kind of lead do you normally use?

View attachment 232986

I think I'm going to be doing nothing but bullets for all my rifles and Sharps cartridges for a while: Absurdistan has just been put into a quasi-"State of Emergency" for who knows how long: shooting clubs are closed, no weapons transport, and possibly Internet ban later (social networks are already affected)...
- https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/2023/07/01/france-riots-nanterre-nahel-funeral/
- https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/2023/06/30/nahel-france-protest-macron-police/
The country will be paralyzed for some time yet, so bullets and cartridges will have to be manufactured and weapons maintained before they can be used...

You will need to lube those bullets. I use a small brush to keep in on the groove area. Simple dip lubing the entire bullet can lead to flyers. I also make my own cartridges from simple copier paper. So far, nitrating hasn't been necessary as they shatter and are reduced to ash on firing.

Keep us informed on how things go once the peasants put down the pitchforks.
 
You will need to lube those bullets. I use a small brush to keep in on the groove area. Simple dip lubing the entire bullet can lead to flyers. I also make my own cartridges from simple copier paper.
I never grease my bullets by dipping, but grease them just before shooting, as I do with my Minié bullets.
The composition of my grease is simple, and it is very tenacious and supple. It's a mixture of beeswax, tallow, lanolin, and pure neatsfoot oil (not the brand, but real beef oil).
It's the beeswax that allows me to adapt the consistency of the grease between the different seasons. The tallow plays its usual role as suet, and the lanolin makes the grease sticky and very adherent, while allowing it to well emulsify oil and other components.
For fun, I add a little pink/red food coloring for a better effect and a few drops of wintergreen oil for fragrance. It's not necessary, but everyone likes it... ;)

As for the peasants, I'm not sure how it's going to work out, we're hoping everything will be back to normal soon. But Absurdistan is a small country that has suffered a lot from the various immigration policies implemented over the last forty years, and it can quickly get out of hand...
 
Last edited:
I never grease my bullets by dipping, but grease them just before shooting, as I do with my Minié bullets.
The composition of my grease is simple, and it is very tenacious and supple. It's a mixture of beeswax, tallow, lanolin, and pure neatsfoot oil (not the brand, but real beef oil).
It's the beeswax that allows me to adapt the consistency of the grease between the different seasons. The tallow plays its usual role as suet, and the lanolin makes the grease sticky and very adherent, while allowing it to emulsify well oil and other components.
For fun, I add a little pink/red food coloring for a better effect and a few drops of wintergreen oil for fragrance. It's not necessary, but everyone likes it... ;)

As for the peasants, I'm not sure how it's going to work out, we're hoping everything will be back to normal soon. But Absurdistan is a small country that has suffered a lot from the various immigration policies implemented over the last forty years, and it can quickly get out of hand...
Sounds like you're doing pretty much what I do. Tallow is pretty much a type of lard and I adjust the beeswax content depending on weather conditions at the upcoming match. It's a fair match for the historic lube and by keeping it to the grooves, you eliminate weird flyers.

As for the peasants, that's a historic problem. Last time there were huge issues, the troublemakers spoke German. 😁
 
So, OP, how is your Sharps shooting? Any adjustments you've made since your post?

Those Hahn tubes look really thick. Do they burn up well? I've been making my own tubes with tracing paper (thin), but plan to switch to regular copy/computer paper for more structural integrity.
 
Since the OP hasn't responded I'll jump in. Charlie's tubes don't burn but shatter on ignition and expelled all things being equal. If you need any other information about his tubes you might email Charlie and ask him. He has always been a pleasure to talk to and very helpful especially when it comes to Sharps.
 
So, OP, how is your Sharps shooting? Any adjustments you've made since your post?

Those Hahn tubes look really thick. Do they burn up well? I've been making my own tubes with tracing paper (thin), but plan to switch to regular copy/computer paper for more structural integrity.
Shootin'? HORRIBLE ...

In a word it doesn't have either the Charlie Hahn or Larry Flees breech conversion and the action is 'tight' ... which I thought was good ... but it still locks up after ONLY 1 SHOT !!! even with Charlie's tubes! And Charlie can't do his conversion magic until well into JAN of 2024, due to hunting and Holidays.

I'm just about ready to SELL it ..
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top