Loading flintlock for a hunt

[Fishslap]

In my percussion gun, I snap a cap, load it up like normal, tape the muzzle and hunt all week if needed. I don’t cap it until I’m ready to shoot unless I’m setting up for calling. This is elk hunting in Colorado.

I have some questions for my flintlock. I’m assuming I’ll want to keep the pan primed while I hunt. Should I change the priming powder each day? Do you typically install a new flint for the hunt? I feel like I’d want to strike it on the frizzen on a dry pan once to make sure it sparks good with no issues (before I load). Any other pointers on hunting with the flintlock that I might not have encountered at the range or with my percussion gun?

I have a frizzen cover for safety and a lock cover if it rains. I’ll take a few extra flints just in case and I’ll have my priming flask. All the other stuff like extra loads will be the same as my percussion kit. Thanks guys.

 

[Bob McBride]

Yes sir. Reprime every day. More often if it’s humid. Check it often if you‘re moving and the frizzen isn’t a nice tight fit. I double check anyway. I like to put a small feather in the touchhole when not primed if loaded for more than half a day to keep humidity out of the charge. Making sure the flint is sharp is plenty but put a fresh one in if you like. Definitely spark it a few times to make sure it’s not fractured. Double check that you didn’t get oil on the frizzen face or the flint. I just wipe it real well. Nothing to it.

 

[oldwood]

In the low humidity western country , you might getaway w/ lighting off a pan of powder before loading , but in the humid areas of the country, it's best to keep the pan dry as a desert. Black powder ash sucks up wet quickly , making the fresh powder put back in the pan damp resulting in a potential hang fire.
Before any powder is involved , just snap the flint and see if you see sparks in the pan .Sparks in the pan means ignition will happened if powder is in the pan. Also , one prime enemy of good sparks off the flint is a loose flint. Put a tiny dab of grease on the flint hammer top jaw screw threads. Anything done to insure the flint is tight in the jaws helps insure spark in the pan........oldwood

 

[SDSmlf]

I’ve kept flintlocks loaded for a week or more during hunting season if weather is right, but doesn’t seem to happen often. Never ignite a pan prior to hunting. Residue attracts moisture, not your friend. If weather is ‘dry’, use feather or other moisture resistant plug in touch hole overnight. Change prime numerous times throughout the day while hunting. If really damp/humid, will pull load daily. Any doubts, going to pull the load.

 

[Fishslap]

Thanks guys. This is exactly what I was looking for.

 

[pab1]

If its dry, leaving the gun loaded shouldn't be an issue. I recently fired a flintlock that I'd left loaded for 5 years. I did not store it with powder in the pan. When I took it to the range it fired with no hesitation and hit the target at 100 yards.

Here's a link to that thread if you're interested.

A Flintlock Has Been Loaded for 5 Years. What Do You Think Will Happen When The Trigger Is Pulled?

 

[Brokennock]

I put in a new flint the day before deer season starts, and another the day before spring turkey season starts.
I change prime at least every day, leaving the gun charged until I get a shot. I don't check and change my prime when it is damp, seems like just another chance to let water or moisture in. I wipe the frizzen, pan, and flint with an alcohol swab before I prime, I already cleaned the bore just before loading, with alcohol to degrease it. I prime once I'm far enough from the truck to be legally loaded, and if it's damp I seal the pan with the stiffer/waxier version of my beeswax/oil lube, then I don't touch it.
I've not had a failure to discharge or any other moisture related issue with my prime doing this
I do use a heavily greased lock cover in even the lightest precipitation.

When done hunting for the day, if no shots have been fired, I plug the vent hole with a thick toothpick that I've colored red to indicate that the gun is charged. I have a scrap of flannel well greased with my patch lube, that when balled up fits just inside the muzzle fairly snug with a slight tail sticking out for removal, this gets stuffed in there until the next outing, actually it gets used after cleaning to collect and residual oils and keep stuff out, too.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Lots of good advice here. I would only add that there will be some variability depending on your specific rifle as to how often you’ll want to check the pan during the hunting day.

Some, including my Lyman GPR, lose powder. I’ve checked my pan several times only to be surprised to see that it’s empty. I have also had a hang fire or two as well, possibly due to moist powder?

I’m actually considering NOT priming this year until I see a deer, in order to retrain myself that the gun isn’t ready until I prime it.

I don’t walk hunt much, but rather I’m in a tree stand or sitting/standing in a cluster of trees waiting for deer to walk by. As such, I typically see them with plenty of time to prime. If it’s a non-shooter, and let’s face it, most of the time it is, I have been leaving the prime there for a while (and checking often). But this year I’ll dump it as part of my re-training. This is because my lock just doesn’t close up tightly enough to hold the prime when the gun tilts this or that way.

I have considered sending my gun to have the lock worked on to solve this, but the shipping and craftsman charges for this particular gun aren’t worth it. If this were a handmade gun, I’m sure I wouldn’t have this issue (or I would pay to have it resolved).

 

[Fishslap]

More good advice. Thanks. Mine is a lefty gpr in 54 cal. I had my gunsmith polish the lock components and while he was at it he polished the pan face and cover to get a tight fit. I’ll probably wait until I get to my spot and prime at shooting light, then check it periodically, especially before calling. In my percussion gun I’ve had to install a cap before shooting so priming or at least checking the pan shouldn’t be too much more of an issue. I have some alcohol wipes that I’ll use on the flint and pan area before priming the first time.

 

[smo]

Great advice by all ,the only other thing I can think of is ......Practice!

The transition from cap to flint was quite the learning curve for me.....

Learn your gun, shoot it a lot prior too hunting season.


Good Luck out there..

 

[Ben Meyer]

If treestand hunting, I dont prime until im up there and seated, and I brush the prime out of the pan before climbing back down the ladder. I keep my pan brush, primer and pick around my neck. While not traditional(neither are ladderstands!) I premeasure 2 extra charges in those little green tubes and leave the horn in the truck. One less potential source of noise. I bring the horn if still hunting. And regardless of how blue the sky it, I always take the cows knee!

 

[Smokepole55]

I also take pre measured loads cause it saves time and effort getting a second reload if necessary. The cows knee I always carry with me here out west and can keep moisture out of the pan on my stalk hunting. Don’t do tree stands.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

I take speed loaders with me hunting as well. Need to make some for my pistol this year too, come to think of it.

I also do some leatherwork, and made a gun hoist similar to one I’ve seen made from canvas material. Essentially it’s a sock-size leather pocket attached to a strap (I prefer over small diameter rope), and at the base of the tree, you put the muzzle of the gun into the leathery sock, clip the strap to the gun closer to the middle of the gun, then lean it against the tree muzzle pointing down. Climb up and take the other end of the strap with you, so that once you’re at the hunting elevation, you can safely haul up your firearm.

 

[Bob McBride]

No speed loaders here but I’m not morally opposed to them. I just carry an extra ball or two, a bit of patching and a small priming horn adapted for 2f with a measure attached in my coat pocket.

That’s very similar to what I do TX but my stands have bow hoists (rope with large carabiner at the end terminating 4’ from the ground). For my guns I quickly attach a sock like you describe to the carabiner and loop the rope high enough that with the buttstock slipped through the loop it holds around the trigger guard, then the muzzle goes in the sock. Once I’m up I hoist the gun up. I do this not only because I don’t like climbing tree stands one handed but my stands are blinded to chest level when setting in them so the hanging fabric is difficult to navigate with a gun in hand.

 

[Fishslap]

I’m not a completely traditional guy so I take several speed loaders, balls, and pre lubed patches. I also have a cows knee/lock cover I’ll bring and if there’s any chance of rain I’ll take my ultra light gun slicker (nice piece of gear). This will be in the mountains of Colorado so I’ll be hiking quite a bit.
I haven’t broke out the muzzleloader for Missouri deer but I typically “still hunt” deer (vs stand). If the alternative methods season occurs when I’m back for Xmas, I carry my ruger Blackhawk 41 mag.

 

[Ben Meyer]

I hunt my best friends family property in SE Indiana, 300 acres 3/4 of which us woods, hills and creeks. We have 12 ladderstands up. I used to use a climber, and hang ons, but anymore its ladderstands, ground blinds, or just stalk/still hunt. I dont have a problem climbing a ladder holding my rifle. I'm a firefighter, have climbed a few ladders carrying stuff

 

[hanshi]

Since I'm no longer able to safely climb a tree or even a ladder stand I carry a lightweight collapsing canvas chair into the woods. After leaving the truck I prime, put the lock on half cock with a leather cover over the frizzen. Likely as not I'll have 5 loose balls, pre-measured charges and pre-cut lubed patches. Years ago I'd never be found without a bag & horn in the woods. But then, situations do change.

 

[oldwood]

Have one of those canvas chairs W/fold up back , too. Nowadays , mostly out of trees , except some in a ladder stand. Found I can fall asleep in most any chair ,high or low. Darned deer keep waking me up.........oldwood

 

[Ben Meyer]

Yeah, getting old sucks. I'm "only" 48, but to quote Indiana Jones, "It isn't the years, its the mileage!"

2 years ago, I used my climber for the last time. I used to pack it a mile or so in, up hills, etc with my bow and all my stuff(60 lbs on my back). I was alone, shot a buck with a 12ga slug at last light. Having to drag a deer out aint easy; its WAY HARDER, carrying a bow with 60lbs on your back at night! Cap it off exhausted, having to give the deer a "bloody suplex" into the truck and i told myself im getting too old for that!10-15 yrs ago, I could hack it; 3 surgeries and a decade plus of a physically hard job and yeah, ill stick to ladderstands or the ground!

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Yeah, getting old sucks. I'm "only" 48, but to quote Indiana Jones, "It isn't the years, its the mileage!"

2 years ago, I used my climber for the last time. I used to pack it a mile or so in, up hills, etc with my bow and all my stuff(60 lbs on my back). I was alone, shot a buck with a 12ga slug at last light. Having to drag a deer out aint easy; its WAY HARDER, carrying a bow with 60lbs on your back at night! Cap it off exhausted, having to give the deer a "bloody suplex" into the truck and i told myself im getting too old for that!10-15 yrs ago, I could hack it; 3 surgeries and a decade plus of a physically hard job and yeah, ill stick to ladderstands or the ground!

I hear ya.
I haven’t been fortunate enough to use it yet, but I bought a set of wheels that attach to my climber, turning the foot and seat parts into a game cart. The plan is to shoot the deer, tag it, then hike back to the truck and drop off the rifle (or bow), pick up gutting knives and wheel set, then return to gut and drag it out. That’s for the shorter hikes, of course. Longer hikes in, I could use the wheels/cart on the way in too, but that’s a noisier hike, so I haven’t done that yet. The wheel kit is called a Sherpa, and they make a few different kits for popular climber stands. Just a thought for ya. (I also installed Molle backpack system on my climber which makes it hella comfortable.)