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Lee 54 mold undersized

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The Crisco Kid said:
I've never seen the need for a PID. A few degrees temperature drift won't make any difference for the type of shooting we do. The benchrest boys shooting unmentionables might notice a difference but I never have. Better to spend the money on more powder and lead to get in more practice.
Click to expand...
You have a good point.
 
I've been casting for about 50 years and never used a thermometer. Mostly in a cast iron pot on a Coleman white gas stove converted to propane. If anything I tend to run a little hot. That said, I've acquired a lead thermometer and plan to use it.
 
 
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I got into powder coating my bullets and do coat my .54 R.E.A.I. cast bullets then run them through a lee resizing die. No leading! I do apply some bore butter to the groves when at the muzzle during loading target shooting. 20 rounds with BP (70 to 100 grains) and very accurate on the 100 yard range.
 
First real post here, but I've experienced same thing with Aluminum molds, as they lose temp quickly. I would definitely run the temp of the mold higher, and try again. Technique I earned from the internet is to count the seconds after pour till the sprue glazes over. Less than 3-4 seconds, the mold is too cold, more than 8-10 it's too hot. Then just keep your casting cadence to match mold temp. I now use a PID for my BPCR bullets, and it's improved my quality and consistently dramatically. (+/- 1-2 grains for a 525g bullet) Good luck
 
Any real bullets that I came across became RB. That 1in 36 twist might preclude that. I would try a few different brands of bullets. I am thinking a sabot of some type might work
 
The Crisco Kid said:
If you have access to a drill press it's pretty easy to lap a couple of thousands out of a mold. I have lapped quite a few iron molds but never aluminum. Cast a bullet and leave it the mold cavity. With the sprue plate closed drill a pilot hole in the bullet half the depth or so, just don't drill clear through it. I have a long sheet rock screw with the head cut off that I use. The pilot hole in the bullet is a little under the screw diameter. Once the hole is drilled open up the mold and start the screw in. Put some fine grinding compound, 240 or 320 grit, on the bullet and spin it in the mold with a cordless drill. It's a cut and try job until you get the right diameter. It takes awhile since you will have to let the mold cool enough to clean it out and then cast another bullet to check the diameter. This bullet becomes the next lap if you need to go more. Lee molds are cheap, or fairly so anyway, so you don't have much to lose if you screw it up.
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That’s a great idea. It won’t take long to lap out an aluminum mold. Be careful you don’t go too far
 
Also,
Without preheating your mold, it will take casting at least a handful of bullets before the mold temp matches the alloy. Just toss those back in the pot. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is a great cheap reference to have.
 
guidas said:
First real post here, but I've experienced same thing with Aluminum molds, as they lose temp quickly. I would definitely run the temp of the mold higher, and try again. Technique I earned from the internet is to count the seconds after pour till the sprue glazes over. Less than 3-4 seconds, the mold is too cold, more than 8-10 it's too hot. Then just keep your casting cadence to match mold temp. I now use a PID for my BPCR bullets, and it's improved my quality and consistently dramatically. (+/- 1-2 grains for a 525g bullet) Good luck
Click to expand...
If that technique works for you, fine. Many of my molds are Lee, I do not count seconds but keep a regular routine for all my moves while casting. Works for me.
 
rcscott30 said:
Well...I finally got to fire some of my casted 54 LEE REAL bullets I casted earlier this month, and they shot terrible. I got a digital caliper to measure the bullets and the mold cavity, and to my surprise their undersized my .003! I know that's with in their specs, but not right. What's the best and safest way to lap them out a few thousands of a inch? Internet has too many directions with everyone being the expert. And I should note, I should only need to enlarge the top band.
Click to expand...
POWDER COAT!!!/Ed
 
The Crisco Kid said:
The guy in the Lee Menting post is opening the sprue plate too fast and pulling lead out of the base. The cut across the bottom should be slick and shiny. Not that it makes any real difference in performance.
Click to expand...
Not so as the base steers the projectile and as far as accuracy any conical benefits from using a dry Dura Felt wad over the powder as it protects the base ! /Try it Ed
 
I have the Lee .54 REAL mold. My last batch (pure lead) measure .548 on the top band. According to the manufacturer's specs, it should be .557.
 
I have many Lee Molds along with Lyman and going into it with low expectations when buying a new one i try to keep my self from being disappointed because they seem to never get it right, I always seem to have some unpleasantry with there products.
 

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