Ideas for filling chip in stock?

[Yosef]

Hello all!

I recently refinished a Numrich Arms Minuteman stock and neglected to do anything about the chip and corresponding hairline crack in the stock to the right of it. My question to the forum is...what do you recommend doing to fill the chip and prevent future cracking? Epoxy mixed with sawdust...superglue...drilling and filling?

Please note that I did not do the inletting job for the lock as it is a little sloppy. I may need to shim it. Everything works properly though and shoots just fine.

Thank you in advance.

 

[R Ellis]

Glue the crack and don't do anything else

 

[64Springer]

I see a chip but no hairline crack.

Pack the gap with bee's wax.

 

[RB POWELL]

I see a chip but no hairline crack.

Pack the gap with bee's wax.

Leave it. The crack is barely noticeable. The chip is part of the rifle's life-story, and not a big deal.

 

[Eutycus]

Myself, I more than likely would have used an epoxy like J.B. Weld in the past. The cracks were filled but now more noticeable. But that stuff is paintable isn't it?

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Whatever you fill the crack with except normal crud from use will stand out like a sore thumb forever. The most I would do is dab a little dark stain on it to make it look old and leave the crack unless you're good at doing it without making a mess. And please, tell me that's not a roll pin holding the frizzen!

 

[Eutycus]

Isn't there a mix of baking soda and super glue that makes some sort of filler. But that would give it that "plastic" look wouldn't it?

 

[Conquerordie]

Id just rub some blackpowder in it the next time you go shooting. Isn't worth a fix. It looks like a roll pin holding the frizzen. That's a new one.

 

[RB POWELL]

Isn't there a mix of baking soda and super glue that makes some sort of filler. But that would give it that "plastic" look wouldn't it?

Baking soda and super glue will certainly fill, and can be sanded, and colored with dye. I've used food coloring with great success. I've used this method on many models: plastic, and wood. That said, I wouldn't "fix" that crack, unless it is a lot worse than it looks in the photo. Sometimes the super glue develops a frosty look, and it may develop that haze over time; not usually, but not rarely, either. In that case it will stand out like a sore thumb.

 

[Rob M.]

That slow set epoxy that is black once you mix it or the clear slow set epoxy with a finish nail dipped in inlet black ....mix it up , tap on opening of cracknand fill that gap . Next day file it flush with wood . After a short time it just looks like a bit of antique spot on the stock . Done it many times , strong fix and looks good ....easy too..

 

[SDSmlf]

Currently reworking a stock with a similar blemish because of too tight of an inlet for the lock. Plan is to clean up and glue back any damaged pieces of stock wood, then darken the ‘wounded’ area and refinish. As with yours, it’s a used gun with nicks and bangs. Nothing to be ashamed of or attempt to hide in my opinion.

 

[Eutycus]

Does anyone have the formula for that super glue and baking soda mix? I have a plastic bunny rabbit from bouquet that was at my Mother's funeral that has a hole/crack in it. I let my 4 year old neice hold it and she dropped it.I'd like to repair it. It's only a plastic rabbit but you know...sentimental value.

 

[Eutycus]

Sorry Yosef, I didn't mean to hijack your thread.

 

[Yosef]

I appreciate all of the advice. Impressed how many folks here are willing to take the time to help.

It is a hairline crack that you can't see in the image...I just didn't want it to get any worse.

Since it's my first flintlock I never even noticed the "rolling pin" holding in the frizzen haha. I'll have to do some research or find a screw that fits.

 

[Eric Krewson]

If I was going to fill the crack, I would use a tri-corner file and make a neat cut into the crack. I would cut an oversized triangle piece that would fit the crack tightly and glue it in with superglue. After the glue set, I would shape the patch to match the rest of the lock mortis and stain it.

Been there and done that on a crack in a TC lock mortis.

The glued in wood is slightly darker than the stock wood and runs from the lock bolt hole to the sear hole. I glued in a hickory dowel and redrilled the lock bolt hole to make sure the crack never opened up again.

 

[Shiloh]

That slow set epoxy that is black once you mix it or the clear slow set epoxy with a finish nail dipped in inlet black ....mix it up , tap on opening of cracknand fill that gap . Next day file it flush with wood . After a short time it just looks like a bit of antique spot on the stock . Done it many times , strong fix and looks good ....easy too..

I think if it were mine I’d get some super glue, not the gel type. It should wick onto the crack to keep it from spreading. After it sets up sand off the scab and touch it up with some dye to hide the fresh wood.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

I would use Titebond wood glue, accepts all stains or paints.

 

[Billy Boy]

Hello all!

I recently refinished a Numrich Arms Minuteman stock and neglected to do anything about the chip and corresponding hairline crack in the stock to the right of it. My question to the forum is...what do you recommend doing to fill the chip and prevent future cracking? Epoxy mixed with sawdust...superglue...drilling and filling?

Please note that I did not do the inletting job for the lock as it is a little sloppy. I may need to shim it. Everything works properly though and shoots just fine.

Thank you in advance.
View attachment 252416

Drill a small hole at the very end of the crack, that will stop it from progressing, de-grease the area, mix some stain with two
part epoxy and fill it proud. You can then take it down to flush with the right grit to match sheen of your stock finish.

 

[aussie pete]

Does anyone have the formula for that super glue and baking soda mix? I have a plastic bunny rabbit from bouquet that was at my Mother's funeral that has a hole/crack in it. I let my 4 year old neice hold it and she dropped it.I'd like to repair it. It's only a plastic rabbit but you know...sentimental value.View attachment 252610

Eutycus, I understand your sentimental attachment. I'd be using two-part epoxy putty that you can get at a hardware store; comes in a small tube, just break off how much you need and build up the space incrementally starting out from the edges. Most of this stuff dries to a creamy colour. For a finish to match, use a dremel tool to scribe in some lines to match the surface. You could even apply a little dab of creamy brown boot polish with your fingers to match the surface colour.

All the best,

Pete

 

[Scota@4570]

A carefully fitted wood patch is the best way. Use the same kind of wood, with the same grain orientation. Cut away the area to be patched, I'd use a milling machine. Follow the split out part with your cut. Then spit out and shape the patch material and flat it off with the mill following the split cut of the patch. The fit will have no with no gaps. Glue in place with whatever you like. Staining will not matter because there is no glue joint visible. IF you wan to be really fancy make some fake grain wiht a needle to match the patch with the old stock.

IF you do a good job as I described above the patch will be invisible. I have replaces the whole top of the tang area on a 1870s stock like that. I slabbed off the whole top of the stock with a milling machine. I selected a new chunk of wood and reinforced the joint with hidden pins. I replaced that large chunk of wood as described and reinletted the tang. After blending the finish I have to do a double take to pick it out.

Filling stock blemishes with any sort of glue or paste filler never looks right. If I could not do the above I'd stabilize the crack with super glue and move on.