I have a long way to go.

[mathews]

I can’t believe how hard it is to shot a flint lock compared to a cap lock. At least for me it took about fifty shots before I even started to get my 50 cal Kentucky sighted in for 30 yards. I was benching off a big log where I had to sit on the ground. I’m glad I started a few days early just shooting with pan powder. My pan leaks out the powder If I hold the gun facing up with the prism closed how do I fix that?

 

[mr.flintlock]

Flintlocks shouldn't be difficult to shoot. What kind of flintlock are you shooting?

 

[Trench]

When I shot a Traditions, I had the same problem with primer coming out of the pan. It had a poor frizzen to pan fit. After the mainspring broke loose, I just replaced the entire lock with an L&R lock.

Hey, just when you think you got it licked, you find out you have a long way to go again. I found that out yesterday.

 

[bowkill]

it is the very opposite for me never had fun until i started shooting flintlocks.

 

[F.G. Ford]

To shoot a flintlock, all you have to do is sit down and think what you're doing!
1: a decent lock ( good springs, hard frizzen, frizzen covers powder)
2: touch hole where it should be
3: touch hole large enough
That is it!
Old Ford

 

[rafterob]

There is another post going involving "flinch". that is probably your main issue.Somewhere between 100 and 200 shots you should have that under control. The prime leaking out of the pan isn't a huge issue because you should not be priming until you are ready to fire any way.But look closely at the fit of the frizzen to the pan and see if it can be filed or ground to fit better. Sometimes this can be accomplished and on some locks it is hopeless.

 

[fredrader]

Can you see where the powder is going? Make sure it is not leaking between the lock and the stock and laying behind the lock..It could make for a bad day if it ignites back there..As for the flinching practice will cure that..Good Luck

 

[boar]

My best lock a L&R will hold a cigarette paper with the frizzen closed. Take lock off and hold up to light and see where the frizzen meets the pan and where there is daylight. Probably J-B weld put in low spots might be the easy fix or try to level each surface to meet tight? I have had a few of them kind of locks,mostly low end locks. Dilly

 

[paulvallandigham]

Put some kind of inletting dye- lipstick, Prussian blue, etc. on the top edges of the pan, and then lower the frizzen to Mark the high spots. Remove the frizzen, and file down the high spots. Put it back, and repeat, until the gap is closed. Use a fine Draw file( teeth go in a single direction), and for the final finish, use a hard India stone so that the surface is polished. If no india stone, then put very fine Emery cloth around the file and use the backing of the file to polish the surface with the emery cloth. Put oil on the emery cloth to get an even finer finish. The finer you polish the pan, and the bottom of the frizzen, the harder it is for Powder Residue to stick to the surfaces, making cleaning your pan and frizzen a "snap" with a slightly dampened cleaning patch( spit works), and a swipe of the patch over the parts with your thumb.

Once you marry the frizzen to the pan, you will not have a gap to worry about again. Low End locks have these problems as a cost savings during production. As long as you understand why you can buy such a gun for so little money( compared to other guns with better locks) and have some basic Shop skills, you can make these locks and guns functional. :thumbsup:

 

[stubshaft]

I find it easier to shoot a rocklock than a capper or maybe just more enjoyable for me. I think that once you get over the learning hump you might find the same thing also. :hatsoff:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Shouldn't be any more difficult to shoot a flintlock vs. a percussion as long as you have good (aka: "fast") ignition. If it is hang-firing you'll never get accuracy.

A psycological flinch bothers some folks and that takes time and practice to get past. Shooting glasses and a hat that doesn't deflect the blast back into your eyes will help. Baseball caps can be a real problem causer.

 

[mathews]

I fixed the pan leaking proublem Like you all said. I love shooting a flint lock and will not stop I'm hooked. It is going off pretty fast but I'm not sure it is fast as it should be. I've got frinds that shoot them all the time so I'll have them help me out. Thank you all for your time it is great to have this forum to go to.

 

[mr.flintlock]

Ignition time in a good flintlock should be instant if it is loaded and primed properly. I never hear the flint strike on any of mine.

For best results you need 4-f priming powder or better yet Swiss Nul-B. Fill the pan to just below the touch hole. I like my prime powder leveled out in the pan. The touch hole should be centered and level with the top lip of the pan.

Also, the design of the vent liner can affect speed of ignition. It should be coned out on the inside to get the main charge a little closer to the flash of the prime.

 

[Gotspark]

You might have a long way to go but...gettin there is half the fun! Good luck. :v

 

[Roundballrules]

I can't hardly pick up my caplock rifles now that I'm shooting a flinter! The key factors towards getting my .45 going off instantly and consistently were putting in a slightly larger touch hole (sorry, I don't have the size to pass along) and shoving a brass vent pick into the FFFg main charge every time before priming with FFFFg. I might have a flash in the pan one time in a hundred. I did notice a delay when I ran out of 4F primer and used 3F.

 

[rabjr]

I can't hardly pick up my caplock rifles now that I'm shooting a flinter! The key factors towards getting my .45 going off instantly and consistently were putting in a slightly larger touch hole (sorry, I don't have the size to pass along) and shoving a brass vent pick into the FFFg main charge every time before priming with FFFFg. I might have a flash in the pan one time in a hundred. I did notice a delay when I ran out of 4F primer and used 3F.

Fixing the lock has been covered so I'll leave that alone but I do pretty much the same as the above quote except I load and prime with 3F. Always have as I've never seen 4F. I have no problem what so ever with my guns ignition. They all go right off no problem. :v

 

[Mulebrain]

Gather as much knowledge as possible. You will find everything you need from the folks right here, but I do like reading some other sources.

Good flint, properly hardened frizzen, good main spring, fff prime, proper vent size and location, and gun should go off! Try picking the vent after gun is charged, this can help.

Bobs Black Powder Notebook is good for beginners :thumbsup:

His flinter section
http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/flintlockfaq.html