Fixing Up An 18th Century 20ga

[64Springer]

Hello.

I've been shooting muzzleloaders for more than forty years. But this my first attempt at bringing part of an 18th century shotgun back from the grave. 20ga. 29" barrel.

Clearly a flintlock to percussion conversion. Anyone recognize the lock plate style? Plate is 5-3/8" x 1-1/16". Being a flintlock, would she have been full stock or half stock? There are two tenons on the bottom of the barrel, towards the muzzle, with holes in them. There's also a dovetailed slot for a tenon closer to the chamber end. Which may have been used for a wedge or pin when the percussion/half stock change was made.

As always, any help/guidance is appreciated.

 

[rich pierce]

Normally a one-piece bolster/pan is considered English construction. I’m surprised the barrel is so short. No internals for the lock?

 

[64Springer]

Thank you.

The internals are shot. Screw threads and lock plate threads rusted away. No mainspring. Sear worn to a nub. Major slop between tumbler and bridle. I really wanted to rebuild the lock, but nope.

I was surprised by the short barrel too. The muzzle wall thickness is .090. The barrel profile is 1.200 wide at the breech. Tapers to a wedding band and then round to the muzzle. No symmetry to the flats. The flat on the touch hole flat is tapered as well. Been wondering how much this will impact fitting up a new lock. Wondering if I should file a flat that is parallel to the bore. So the lock plate, lock mortise and barrel are all on the same plane.

Really scratching my head as where to begin.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Loch is German or French. Don't file your flat parallel to the bore, you want the tail of the lock to kick out a little. Is the bore any good in the barrel?

 

[64Springer]

Thank you.

Why is it important for the lock tail to kick out some? And what makes it German or French?

The bore was in very poor condition. It measured .625 at the muzzle. Took off 3/4". Honed it. Now it's .609. Good reflective shine all the way to the chamber. Bore has a progressive taper.

 

[64Springer]

Loch is German or French. Don't file your flat parallel to the bore, you want the tail of the lock to kick out a little. Is the bore any good in the barrel?

Why should I not make my drum/vent liner barrel flat parallel to the bore? If you have a detailed explanation, I'm all ears and would love to hear it. Thanks.

 

[SOLANCO]

Lot of steel at that muzzle. You might even play with the idea of choke tubes. Yeah, I know. Sacrilege.

 

[64Springer]

At .609, I don't think she'll need any more choke.

And I thought choke tubes were in the class of Unmentionables that everyone is not allowed to mention here.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Why should I not make my drum/vent liner barrel flat parallel to the bore? If you have a detailed explanation, I'm all ears and would love to hear it. Thanks.

Because that is the way they were made. Take off no more material than it takes to make a flat spot for the lock to snug up to.
You'll notice the lock follows the flare of the barrel at the breech. The gun is wider at the tail of the lock panel than the nose of the lock panel.

 

[64Springer]

So the lock plate and lock panels are following the taper of the barrel. Neat trick. Thank you very much. Have a nice afternoon.

And if you made that rifle, I love the shell engraving.

 

[64Springer]

So the lock plate and lock panels are following the taper of the barrel. Neat trick. Thank you very much. Have a nice afternoon.

And if you made that rifle, I love the shell engraving.

 

[Phil Coffins]

An often overlooked thing about lock panels are they aren’t generally parallel with each other or the barrel. Most are narrower at the front but then like a Hawken they are narrower at the rear although a Hawken barrel has a slight tapper from breech to muzzle.

 

[Phil Coffins]

There are pictures that show this but I don’t have them handy.