First mortise job, done.

[user 54092]

Lock is finally in the right place, I think, looks like manure but I can claim inexsperiance, and so I will. Now to place the set trigger and looking for advice for same, 3 books and I'm still scratching my head.

 

[CuNosecap]

I’m scratching mine too. Care to elaborate?

 

[user 54092]

It's about mortising the trigger group in the correct spot so that the sear is in the exact position within the "V" formed by the trigger levers. That I understand, but what's the best way to find the exact spot to begin mortising out the area that will ensure the sear and trigger levers are in the right alignment. I'm working with a blank slate, as it were, and using eyeballing in the procedure isn't a good method, IMHO. , I think I need measurements, and of course with those measurements I need points from which to measure. UNLESS someone has a superior method that insures a good and true sear engagement.

 

[user 54092]

Actually I just noticed this thread is totally misplaced and should be in the gun building section of the forum. Maybe a moderator can move it.

 

[IanH]

And it's also useless without pictures

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I don't think that there is an exact spot. The rear trigger arm needs to contact the sear when when the trigger is tripped. It also can't exert pressure on the sear when the triggers are at rest. This can keep the sear from engaging the hammer notches. There is often some wiggle room and some times the trigger bar can be ground down some to provide the needed clearance. If you are an inexperienced builder I'd really suggest using a simple single trigger. They can give a perfectly usable trigger pull. The trigger blade should contact the sear at a point between 1/4" and 3/8" from the trigger pivot in its housing. I've gone to nothing but single triggers in all my builds, the exception being the Kibler SMR.

 

[user 54092]

Well alright, found the mortising section within the tominess of the tome that is the book of how to build a flintlock. Glenville or some such. Hidden there in the section on how to make the triggers. Table of contents lists the chapters on how to mortise everything else but squirreled away the how to mortise the trigger group within How to make a trigger.
I have considered buying a single trigger to replace the double set triggers that came with this kit just for simplicity sake. But having jumped right into the deep end I'd hate to have the kit's trigger collect dust. Still under consideration.
I thank you for your attention to this thread.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
This should help.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/inletting-for-a-double-set-trigger.132580/#post-1847038
dave

 

[The Crisco Kid]

You summed it up a lot better than I did. Good post!

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Trgt,

This is a simple method you might use to get the measurements you need. The nail represents the sear. You can measure from it to the front or rear of your trigger plate and then transfer that to your stock.

 

[The Appalachian]

Keep in mind, that just getting the trigger bar to the sear is only part of the equation. For optimum trigger pull with your front trigger (without setting the rear) you need to locate the pivot more towards the sear, in my opinion no more than 1/4" away. This will produce a nicer lighter single trigger pull. Placing it out on the tip of the trigger bar will make it the heaviest it can be.