• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

First flintlock - Lyman TR. Questions...

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
There was a group of people here that were wanting to get one of these and GM was reluctant to make any because they didn't want to hold inventory and didn't see the demand for them. She did not give a specific date but stated they would be making them in a couple of months. Good news for many of us.
 
You mentioned maybe grabbing your ramrod rather high up. It is best to be careful NOT to grab too high and make a habit of short strokes that do not risk breaking the rod, or wearing the muzzle. Good smoke and enjoy, Ron
 
I see no reason to disassemble the lock for cleaning in most cases. I merely use soap and water, and an old toothbrush to get the residue out of tight spots. I then let the action dry, on paper towels, while I finish cleaning the barrel. If water drops remain on the action, I use the paper towels to soak the water off the lock. Then I oil the lock, and check the screws with appropriates screw drivers before putting the lock back into the stock.

The only time I disassemble the lock is when a gun is new, and I find wood splinters STUCK in the parts, or when its obvious that the parts are not working together properly and the disassembly is needed to tune the lock. Once I have tuned a lock, It remains assembled until something breaks, or the lock has been badly neglected by its owner, and rust is preventing it from functioning properly. :cursing:

I thoroughly clean my modern guns and check screws on them after each shooting session, too. I once lost a screw from a revolver, and was very grateful that the company that made the gun was:

a. Still in business;
b. Had the Screw in stock;
c. Was willing to send me the screw at no charge.

I bought Loc-tite and applied it to the threads of the new screw, and haven't had to worry about the screw backing out since. But, I do check the screw EVERY time I shoot and then clean the gun.

( Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me!)

I still have my father's .22 rifle, made about 100 years ago. The bore has some pitting from use of corrosive primers back before WWII, but it clean, and still shoot accurately. Dad filed off the bead on the sight when we were kids, thinking it would help him see the sights better, but it didn't do anything but change the height of the front sight, and destroy all that muscle memory he had to know where to hold the sights to shoot very small groups at POA. He never shot that rifle again as well AFTER he filed off that bead. I would like to replace that bead sight to restore the gun to its original condition, But I also like the idea of keeping it around as is to reflect the gun's history with my father. So, its going to be a decision to make. The gun has no real collector's value, although its worth many times the amount of money my Grandfather paid for the gun when he bought it for dad. The best part of the gun's history, is that Dad used the rifle to shoot Rats in the alleys of the NW side of Chicago where he was raised. He became quite the neighborhood "hero" because of his ability to kill rats, and people on the next blocks over from his would call his home to ask if he could come over a kill their rats.

Can you imagine the reaction of people in Chicago today if a kid were to try to shoot rats in the alleys, now?

I used that gun to do my first " Trick " shot- cutting a toothpick in half with one shot-- so it may not look like much, but it still means a lot to me.
 
So I took it out to shoot again on Tuesday, and before I took it out, I ran a dry patch down to check for rust. It came up with pretty thick rust outlining the rifling grooves! I guess the Bore Shine isn't as much of a rust inhibitor as claimed.

This time, after I cleaned it, I ran a saturated bore butter patch down the barrel. My question now is how much do I have to worry about damage done from the rust I saw?
 
Not much to worry about the first time it happens. Remember that you are shooting a PRB out of the gun, and with the pure lead ball upsetting and shoving that coarse patch material against the lands and grooves, you get a little burnishing of the lands with each shot.

Check the barrel weekly. Even using bore butter. I happen to have a cool closet in my home where I store the guns, and it is also dry all year around, because of air conditioning. Bore butter has kept my guns in good shape. However, in more humid, and hotter conditions, it might not work as well as Ballistol does. I have a rifle barrel coated with Ballistol right now that I am checking periodically, to see how well it keeps the rust away. And, I also know people who use a combination of WD40, which whisks water away from the metal ( Water Displacing Oil#40), with Ballistol, which seems to last much longer and keeps the metal lubricated and rust free by depriving it from contact with air, and humidity.
 
Thanks, Paul, I'll keep that in mind. I'll check it again in a few days. Seems like the bore butter is doing the trick at the moment.
 
BCon, I put together a great plains kit 5 years ago. the only real problem I've had was the frizzen lost it's hardness after 2 years, I solved that with a 1 mm sliver of file steel fastened on , I bought a replacement frizzen but have not put it on . I did make a few slight changes to the set trigger , I polished off some burrs and rough spots is all . the other thing which on mine made a big difference was I replaced the sear spring with a slightly weaker one. mine was so strong that the set trigger had to be adjusted to really jump hard for it to release the sear. Last week I replaced my vent liner, as mine had finally worn out . I put a chambers vent in so it now has the same liner as my other two flinters. Oh yeah my target load with a 490 rb is 65 gr 3f goex I use 4f prime and 15 thou patching usually spit patch .
 
Back
Top