FFF OR FF?

[Norseman]

Any recommendations for using FFF or FF Black powder in a .50 cal flintlock rifle?.
Also, what would be the max charge in a 7/8" barrel? I am already aware that trying different loads for the most accurate and/or hunting/target load and FFF has a slightly higher pressure than FF. I just want to know the "proof" for safety sake. (This would be in a Green Mountain full octagon with roundball twist). The rifle will be used for hunting most of the time. Most accurate loads would be helpfull too :grin:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Either will work well. With the 3F you might get away with using it as priming charge also.

Maximum loads are spooky to give and get from strangers over the Internet. You should be able to use 110 gr 2F or 100 gr 3f as a steady diet. 7/8" is on the light side, and if the bore isn't centered at the breech end, as occasionally occurs, you have even less metal on one side. If the breech plug wasn't set properly . . .

There is no "warning" with a muzzleloader like with a centerfire. No flattened primers or streched cases.

I use 84 Gr FFg in my .50 and get full penetration on 200 lb whitetails. It's also my most accurate load (0.018" patch).

 

[patch knife]

I have a .54 cal. , 1" octagon Green Mountain IBS roundball barrel . I use fffg Goex black powder in it with good results . I've read that you should reduce your load 15% if you are using fffg instead of ffg . I use 70 - 80 grns in my .54 .

 

[roundball]

Any recommendations for using FFF or FF Black powder in a .50 cal flintlock rifle?.
Also, what would be the max charge in a 7/8" barrel? I am already aware that trying different loads for the most accurate and/or hunting/target load and FFF has a slightly higher pressure than FF. I just want to know the "proof" for safety sake. (This would be in a Green Mountain full octagon with roundball twist). The rifle will be used for hunting most of the time. Most accurate loads would be helpfull too :grin:

I like 3F for everything possible...faster, cleaner,[url] etc...in[/url] my .50cal flintlock / 32" barrel, I use 50grns for targets and 90grns for hunting

 

[Swampman]

It's very hard to blow up a modern muzzleloader barrel. I use 3f for everything. You'll break the wrist of the stock or your shoulder before the barrel lets go.

 

[TN.Frank]

Yep, I've been using 3fg in my Austin n' Halleck flint Mt. Rifle for both main and priming charge. Been working good so far and I've only got to buy one kind of powder. Just as a safety precation you can back the load down 10% and that'll take care of the faster burn time and higher pressure of the 3fg vs 2fg but other then that I'd say go for it and don't look back. Heck, if I get the 62cal smooth bore that I'd like I'll probably use 3fg in it too.

 

[Pittsburghunter]

I find FFF to be more reliable in my rifles and cleaner burning than even the likes of Pyrodex.

I would still follow your mfg load data and reduce loads by about 10% with FFF if they don't provide data for it.

I shoot it in all m/l I own including pistols, sidelocks and even inlines. It is just plain old good powder.

 

[cayugad]

Like the rest I shoot 3f most of the time in my flintlocks and percussion rifles although there are a couple out there that do better with 2f. I guess your rifle will be the final judge on that matter.

Good luck with your rifle.

 

[Toomuch_36]

Any recommendations for using FFF or FF Black powder in a .50 cal flintlock rifle?.
Also, what would be the max charge in a 7/8" barrel? I am already aware that trying different loads for the most accurate and/or hunting/target load and FFF has a slightly higher pressure than FF. I just want to know the "proof" for safety sake. (This would be in a Green Mountain full octagon with roundball twist). The rifle will be used for hunting most of the time. Most accurate loads would be helpfull too :grin:

As has been said each rifle likes it's own diet and his will be the determining factor.
As a rule of thumb with 3F, set your starting point at 1 grain per caliber for target and adjust for accuracy. For hunting and long range target add 20 to 25 grains and adjust for accuracy.

Toomuch
............
Shoot Flint

 

[Runner]

I used 3f or P for over 20 years. I even used it in my 12 guage. Recently I have moved back to 2f. In the shotgun, the difference in recoil is big, and the penetration is pretty much the same on the target. In the Mountain rifle, it is more accurate so far. I have not tried it in the Hawken yet since it is torn down for a new stock. I will likely still use 3f in the short barreled guns like the 36 and my little flinter.

 

[rebelyell62]

Please bear in mind that the max charge is not always the most accurate. With that being said, I like 3f for all of my shooting, cleaner burn, a little more umph. My hunting loads in my .50's are 80 gr. 3f and .490 patched round ball. Of course all rifles are an intity unto themselves, and what works for me may not work for your particular piece. Play around with different loads, patch , ball combos. IMHO I wouldn't waste powder on 100 gr. loadings.
Good Shooting :hatsoff:

 

I use fffg in all of my rifles of .50 or less caliber. In my favorite .50 flinter I use 70 gr fffg and a .490 ball which gives acceptable hunting energies/trajectories and good accuracy; but every barrel is different, so I'd start with 50 or 60 gr fffg and work up an accurate load. 7/8 is a little on the light side for a .50, but should not be a problem with reasonable loads.

 

[akapennypincher]

Remember all Powder Measures, with Numbers on em are based upon FFG Powder.

If using FFFG work up your load slowly.

 

[410-er]

If powder measurers are set for FFg what are the aprox cross over amounts.I have been using 20grs of FFFg out of the measurer in the 32.Wonder what it really is?

 

[Swampman]

Powder measures measure by volume. A cup of water and a cup of bleach are both a cup of something. They are not calibrated for 2f. 2f is fine for blank charges and cannons. 3f is all that is needed in blackpowder smallarms.

 

[TN.Frank]

Oh man, this brings back memories of a thread I got into about powder measures and grains and weight.
Powder measures are calibrated so that a certain volume setting will throw a certain grain weight charge of powder. You can set a properly calibrated powder measure up to say, 60 grains and throw a charge that should weight 60 grains on a scale like the RCBS 505. There is only one "grains" and that's a unit of weight, not of volume. The Lee disc powder measures for smokeless powder ctg. reloading work on the same concept. A given volume(in CC's in Lee's case) will throw a set weight of powder so you can look up the powder you're using in a table and tell how much it'll weigh for a given CC volume.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Remember all Powder Measures, with Numbers on em are based upon FFG Powder.

If using FFFG work up your load slowly.

I've got numbered powder measures that don't register correctly with ANY granulation. I don't trust 'em until I've checked them against an accurate reloading scale. One adjustable I have throws 22% OVER the numbers.

 

[TN.Frank]

Wow, must be one of them Chinese made ones.LOL. Yep, it's always a good idea to check the listed charge with a good scale to make sure it's calibrated properly. Back in the day, I used to just take a ctg. case and cut it back to where I'd want it and use it as a measure. That way I could calibrate it to throw exactly the grains weight charge that I wanted. At 22% over I'd think you could file it back a bit to bring it into spec. if you wanted to put the work into it.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I just scribed my own markings on one of the other flats of the four-sided piston rod. Is "ITALY" Chinese for measure? :haha:

 

[Swampman]

"You can set a properly calibrated powder measure up to say, 60 grains and throw a charge that should weight 60 grains on a scale like the RCBS 505."

I disagree.