Dutch Schoultzs' Dry Patch Method in Winter

[erhunter]

I load with Dutchs" dry patch method 7/1, that's what my Lyman Trade 54 likes. I loaded up for late flint Pa. hunting last Thursday with that patch lube combo and when I shot it off today all I could find in the snow was burnt patch material in the snow. Naturally I wouldn't think that result would provide an accurate shot. Any suggestion? Thanks!

 

[SDSmlf]

What did the target look like?

 

[erhunter]

I just shot into the ground to unload my rifle. It was the end of deer season here in Pa.

 

[Frontier's]

This is not a great hunting patch method. Nor is spit or alcohol based patch lubes.

 

[Sparkitoff]

Not evenly applied, not mixed well or dried out. If you thoroughly mixed the 7:1 and let the patch dry naturally in a horizontal position on something non-porous like aluminum foil it should be even throughout. Stored in an air-tight container it will stay that way for quite a while. Any variation of mixture, treatment and drying makes some difference. That one shot could be a freak, or they could all be like that if you haven't noticed before. I wouldn't worry much about one shot, but I'd definitely look at the patches again at the range after a few shots. I use the same and I've never had temperature make a difference.

 

[erhunter]

At the range in early December when I shot the rifle at the range the patches were perfect when I found them. I mixed a new batch of 7/1 and dried them on a flat non-pourous surface. They feel that they have the right slippery feel as did my other batches I mixed. Was this result of the patch drying out in my rifle since it was loaded for a few days. When I fired it off today it went right off.

 

[William Sublette]

Well if your patch stopped on the snow, and the rest of the fire, and such came behind and torched it, it could look bad.


Shot naturally it wouldn't be trapped and subject to the torching.

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

Do not agree with Dutches methods.....but thats just me... its not that complicated....

 

[MAC1967]

I use Dutch’s patch method of Ballistol & water patch but mostly at the range in the summer … I think the main point of his method is a pre made consistent amount of lube on every patch. .. winter might require a different lube

 

[jackpine54]

A lot of years ago I used the ballistol/water lubed patches in my .45 rifle. I left the rifle loaded for 2 weeks during deer season and never saw a deer. I couldn't hunt the last few days and ended up pulling the ball. The patch was completely dry. Since then I have used mink oil on patches. Might've been a fluke, but the mink oil works fine in my guns.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Dutch's dry patch method works best at the target range when one is looking for the best group on the paper target. Dutch was never much of a hunter, but once you have used his system to determine an accurate load and you have confidence in your rifle, it's time to develop a proper hunting load using the lubricants to serve you best afield and you now have the skills to develop a hunting load with an oil (mink oil?) dampened patch. You will be better at the target range, on Woods Walks and in the hunting field.

 

[Ben Meyer]

I use Dutch's dry patch method for all my range shooting. I swab between shots; thats key when dry patching. Now, on woods walk shooting or hunting, when I can't swab or am loading "fron the bag," I use Mr. Flintlocks patch lube. No need to swab with that, and in my experience, it doesn't freeze or completely dry out. If deer hunting though, keep a roll pre-moistened with in an airtight baggie or something because it does have an odor. Doesn't stink, but im sure deer would easily smell it. TOW Mink oil works well too but I find it messy.

 

[DuncNZ]

Not evenly applied, not mixed well or dried out. If you thoroughly mixed the 7:1 and let the patch dry naturally in a horizontal position on something non-porous like aluminum foil it should be even throughout. Stored in an air-tight container it will stay that way for quite a while. Any variation of mixture, treatment and drying makes some difference. That one shot could be a freak, or they could all be like that if you haven't noticed before. I wouldn't worry much about one shot, but I'd definitely look at the patches again at the range after a few shots. I use the same and I've never had temperature make a difference.

Quite right , the patch must be dry , the oil is evenly distributed in the patch , there is no water in the patch , I use a large ceramic bathroom tile ( 3' x 2' )to dry my patch cloth on . I have found that I need a 5/1 ratio in the summer as the powder fouling gets hard very quickly with 7/1 . In a more humid climate 7/1 is just fine . I can't comment about winter hunting because it just doesn't get that cold where I live .
When I first purchased system dutch used water soluble cutting oil , used on drills and lathes etc as a coolant/lube , to make his moose milk . I used the cutting oil at first but switched to Ballistol when I got my hands on some . I found it just as good and nontoxic to boot . I wrote to Dutch about this and he tried Ballistol an found it was as good or better than cutting oil .
I found that slippery lubes didn't work as well for me as the dry patch . The other day at the range I lubed a patch with Jojoba bean oil , whale oil substitute , and found the bullet was still inline with the group but 12" high .

 

[William O.]

I load with Dutchs" dry patch method 7/1, that's what my Lyman Trade 54 likes. I loaded up for late flint Pa. hunting last Thursday with that patch lube combo and when I shot it off today all I could find in the snow was burnt patch material in the snow. Naturally I wouldn't think that result would provide an accurate shot. Any suggestion? Thanks!

What is your patching material made of? If it's pillow/mattress ticking then perhaps it didn't get all the starch out when washed, leading to uneven amounts of the drylube in the patch allowing it to burn up. Just a thought that came to me, might be valid, might not.