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Clovis said:
OH man, I'm sorry. I didn't notice it was like that either or I would have fixed it before I sent it.
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CVA SXS 12 gauge
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OH man, I'm sorry. I didn't notice it was like that either or I would have fixed it before I sent it.
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Clovis said:
You're rolling now! Keep us posted.
As easy as pie ain't they :hatsoff:
B.
B.
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Hard to complain with a range report like that!
Yep it was a lot of fun.
I thought about starting a new post, but I'll put it here. The details of the loads were interesting and posed more questions. I started with 80 gr. of 2f and then tried the TC "natural wads" I had on hand. They called for two wads then the shot, I dropped 1 1/8oz down and pushed down two thin over shot wads and the load fired and all was well. I loaded several this way, then tried upping the shot to 1 1/4oz and no problems. Tried dropping the powder to 75gr and still loading the 1 1/4oz and no trouble. Found I had some of the old federal brown wads with the almost spiral shaped cushion between the cup and the bottom wad and they loaded and shot fine. Then I tried to load the powder with a over shot card wad of .200" and found it loaded very hard, but did get it onto the powder and loaded shot and over shot wads and shot, and it was a little stiffer on the shoulder than the others. Was that a little too tight? Of did I need to wipe before I tried to load?
Anyway, more questions; I'm probably going to hunt with it using plastic wad/cups from modern shotshell loading until I have more time after the season to work with the wads and pillow ticking stuff, but in your experience should I try to start and over powder wad before the shot wad/cup or should/could I just load the plastic and drop shot and over shot wad and go for it?
I thought about starting a new post, but I'll put it here. The details of the loads were interesting and posed more questions. I started with 80 gr. of 2f and then tried the TC "natural wads" I had on hand. They called for two wads then the shot, I dropped 1 1/8oz down and pushed down two thin over shot wads and the load fired and all was well. I loaded several this way, then tried upping the shot to 1 1/4oz and no problems. Tried dropping the powder to 75gr and still loading the 1 1/4oz and no trouble. Found I had some of the old federal brown wads with the almost spiral shaped cushion between the cup and the bottom wad and they loaded and shot fine. Then I tried to load the powder with a over shot card wad of .200" and found it loaded very hard, but did get it onto the powder and loaded shot and over shot wads and shot, and it was a little stiffer on the shoulder than the others. Was that a little too tight? Of did I need to wipe before I tried to load?
Anyway, more questions; I'm probably going to hunt with it using plastic wad/cups from modern shotshell loading until I have more time after the season to work with the wads and pillow ticking stuff, but in your experience should I try to start and over powder wad before the shot wad/cup or should/could I just load the plastic and drop shot and over shot wad and go for it?
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You're not getting any plastic melted in the barrel from those wads?
Hey Supercracker, I only shot a few and haven't noticed plastic in the bore. In some posts I thought I remember someone suggesting no problems as long as an overpowder wad (lubed) was used, and others have said the plastic just comes out with the cleaning...I dunno, that's why I asked. I figure, why not ask, this forum has a great collective information on the subject which is something I never had 20 or 25 years ago the last time I really tried fooling with this type of shooting.
I'd be doing more shooting with it now, but we've got the opening day of a two week muzzleloading season saturday, the snows are starting to work into the area with this last cold front, and there is this thing coming up on the 25th I have to spend time in malls and other things. It kind of limits my time to play with the new toy.
I'd be doing more shooting with it now, but we've got the opening day of a two week muzzleloading season saturday, the snows are starting to work into the area with this last cold front, and there is this thing coming up on the 25th I have to spend time in malls and other things. It kind of limits my time to play with the new toy.
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Clovis said:
I've never tried plastic wads before because of the plastic in the bore thing. If it works it would make things much easier though.
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When using plastics, I always put a lubed fiber wad under the plastic. Not a single instance of plastic fouling in the bore, even when firing lots of shots in a day. Looking at patterns, I'm guessing the opening petals on the plastic help keep the fiber wad from pushing up through the shot with larger powder charges.
Haven't done it myself, but if you wanted to get around using the fiber wad, you might consider lubed felt. In any case, having something lubed between the powder and plastic puts the plastic fouling issue to rest.
Haven't done it myself, but if you wanted to get around using the fiber wad, you might consider lubed felt. In any case, having something lubed between the powder and plastic puts the plastic fouling issue to rest.
BB has it,a firewall is usually needed with plastic. BP generates alot of heat.
I have had plastic fouling and it is a pain after a few shots.
Just use the shot cup. A few over shot cards will do.
B
I have had plastic fouling and it is a pain after a few shots.
Just use the shot cup. A few over shot cards will do.
B
Yeah, I thought I remember reading about a lubed wad between the powder and the plastic shot cup. Thanks BrownBear and Britsmoothy!
I kind of remember reading in books back in the '80s or so (no internet) of the shotgunners using plastic wads, but you would just have to clean the plastic out later. I have both fiber and wool lubed wads and will try both.
Hey, do you guys notice any improvement in pattern or patterns holding together a little bit farther? I think I remember the old books claiming it would improve patterns some out of cylinder bore guns and that was why some would use it and put up with the extra cleaning issues. Thanks
I kind of remember reading in books back in the '80s or so (no internet) of the shotgunners using plastic wads, but you would just have to clean the plastic out later. I have both fiber and wool lubed wads and will try both.
Hey, do you guys notice any improvement in pattern or patterns holding together a little bit farther? I think I remember the old books claiming it would improve patterns some out of cylinder bore guns and that was why some would use it and put up with the extra cleaning issues. Thanks
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Thanks. I figured there'd still be enough blowby around the OPW to still melt the plastic. When I finally get time enough to get around to actually patterning my shotgun I'll have to try that.
Clovis, I use to fuss over increasing range n'all but not anymore. I stick to a thirty yard general rule and I do just fine, occassionaly I get a little further but it really is not that big an issue. I just get closer(or try to).
I have in the past made paper shot cups that did tighten the patterns a little but I got bored with it so jug choked the gun, do I still have that gun? No! Do I have cylinder guns? Yes. Do I think I am losing out? No.
To be honest I am slightly different in my approach as in I favour small shot for wing shooting and rabbit, a pellet or few in the head and neck is worth any amount through the body in my humble opinion and experience. My years of 410 shooting for all game birds soon taught that high pellet count was better than bigger pellets!
Last weekend I used 71/2 all day for six pheasants, three woodcock and a pigeon.
I also use 3f too!
By all means satisfy youself and keep publishing your findings :hatsoff:
Oh and get a camera :thumbsup:
Brits.
I have in the past made paper shot cups that did tighten the patterns a little but I got bored with it so jug choked the gun, do I still have that gun? No! Do I have cylinder guns? Yes. Do I think I am losing out? No.
To be honest I am slightly different in my approach as in I favour small shot for wing shooting and rabbit, a pellet or few in the head and neck is worth any amount through the body in my humble opinion and experience. My years of 410 shooting for all game birds soon taught that high pellet count was better than bigger pellets!
Last weekend I used 71/2 all day for six pheasants, three woodcock and a pigeon.
I also use 3f too!
By all means satisfy youself and keep publishing your findings :hatsoff:
Oh and get a camera :thumbsup:
Brits.
Brits, I got the camera, ain't got the bucket thingy, so I may have to explore that.
As for the range, I understand that entirely, but I would really hate to have literally thousands of snows at about 41 yards, no way to get closer to them and no way to convince them they needed to get six to ten yards closer to me...there may be smoke, noise and shot going in their direction...hail Mary and maybe I'll get lucky! Course if I did then I would think maybe 60 yards isn't out of the question...hmmm.
As for the range, I understand that entirely, but I would really hate to have literally thousands of snows at about 41 yards, no way to get closer to them and no way to convince them they needed to get six to ten yards closer to me...there may be smoke, noise and shot going in their direction...hail Mary and maybe I'll get lucky! Course if I did then I would think maybe 60 yards isn't out of the question...hmmm.
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Clovis said:
Back in the 80's I did virtually all my bird and small game hunting with ML shotguns. V.M. Starr was one of my favorite and most useful authorities. Here is a very useful pair of articles by him.
Somewhere in my collection (sadly disorganized) I have a print article by him on using plastic cups. He recommended WAA12R wads as having the right stiffness for lead shot at ML velocities. I checked his reported results pretty carefully on my own pattern board, and he seemed right on the money: Used with the petals whole, the WAA12R yielded pretty close to MOD patterns from a CYL bore. Cut the petals to half length and you get something between SK2 and IC from the same barrel. Cut them down to a quarter length and you're in the realm of SK1.
Obviously you wouldn't go cutting off petals for using steel shot, any more than you'd run the shot column taller than the petals. But for lead shot and turkeys, its fertile ground to explore.
Enjoy the read.
BB, I used to use the WAA12R alot in shotshells and they were very effective. I'm not going to even think of using steel in this or any other m/l shotgun, I bought and have #2 Nice shot that is supposed to be able to be used with out worry to damaging a barrel. I have yet to check weights on the lead vs. the nice shot but I am hoping they are close.
Thanks for the link, I'll spend some time tonight reading.
Oh, I hope I have not inadvertantly drifted this into a gray area of the rules for the forum by talking about plastic wads. Reviewing the rules I can't say for sure, but I certainly did not want to offend or upset anyone. Anyway, hope not, and thanks for your interest guys.
Thanks for the link, I'll spend some time tonight reading.
Oh, I hope I have not inadvertantly drifted this into a gray area of the rules for the forum by talking about plastic wads. Reviewing the rules I can't say for sure, but I certainly did not want to offend or upset anyone. Anyway, hope not, and thanks for your interest guys.
