CVA set trigger

[Don]

OK here's a puzzler. A few years back I put together a CVA Hawken from parts. 99% of the parts were Hawken parts except the sights and the trigger mechanism. That came off and old CVA Frontier rifle. When I put it all together the hammer wouldn't go into half or full cock unless I pulled the set trigger first. Otherwise the hammer wouldn't engage the tumbler notches at all. I shot it this way few times and it seemed safe enough but its odd having to pull the set trigger before I could set the hammer to half cock for loading. Is this odd functioning because the trigger mechanism is not from a Hawken rifle or did I install it wrong? Is there a quick fix to this? I'll shoot it this way if I must but I'd like to get it working properly if I can.

Don

 

[Phil Coffins]

Odds are the trigger group is too deep in the stock so just remove them and shim the whole thing out. Try a piece of wood like a pop cycle stick as a temporary shim and adjust the thickness till the trigger bars don't bear on the sear then make your permanent fix. If you can't go deeper then it's a matter of either adjusting the rear trigger so it sets lower or removing metal on the rear trigger bar. Removing metal would be my last resort.
.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Also notice the set screw behind the rear trigger that adjusts how the trigger main spring bears on the rear trigger, turning it in gradually may cure the problem.

 

[Zonie]

The problem is the blade that is on the top of the rear trigger is hitting the sear release arm when the rear trigger is in the unset condition.

When you set the rear trigger, the trigger and the blade are moved to a position with the blade located below the locks sear arm.
This allows the nose of the sear to enter the half cock notch or the full cock notch.

You can try adding a shim between the trigger assembly and the bottom of the trigger mortise like Phil suggested.

If that moves the trigger assembly too far down out of the stock you can file off the top of the rear triggers blade a bit.
Remove only enough steel to allow both the half cock and the full cock notch to work correctly while the rear trigger remains unset.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

If your trigger base is flush with your stock and the triggers fit your trigger guard, you are where you should be as long as you can make them work. Phil was speaking about the possibility of being too deep, so that is a must to check. There should be a backlash adjustment screw which controls the amount of travel your trigger bar has. If the trigger bar lays too high it encroaches the sear travel keeping it from going into the tumbler notches. I had the very same trouble with my set tiggers, but I had to install the backlash screw as there was none.
Good luck
Flintlocklar :wink:

 

[Don]

Well I tinkered some and think I got it figured out. I shimmed the rear of the trigger mechanism and reinstalled it with the lock but seemed to have the same problem. After some more tinkering I backed out the screw a bit that holds the trigger mechanism into the stock. This is the same screw that goes through the piece in the breech where the barrel hooks into. That seems to have been the problem. All seems to function as it should now. Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know if I have any more problems with it.

Don

 

[Zonie]

Don't rely on the tightness of some seemingly unrelated screw to fix the problem.

The top of the rear trigger blade needs to be filed off so you can tighten the tang screw normally.

You don't want to rely on your memory to keep your gun safe.

Yes, safe.

We are talking about a life/death situation here.

If you or someone else someday fully tightens the tang screw it can raise the trigger assembly just enough to allow the gun to seem to be fully cocked but in reality, the sear is barely engaging the full cock notch.
Any slight bump could cause it to release and fire the gun.

Don't do this fix half assed. File off some of the top of the rear triggers blade top.

 

[Don]

Duly noted Zonie.

Don

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Don't rely on the tightness of some seemingly unrelated screw to fix the problem.

Don,
I am with Zonie, make sure you do proper adjustment/modification and then double check that "You" in fact know the sear is going into the half and full cock notches every time. With all screws tightened as should be.
Flintlocklar

 

[Don]

I tried to file some material off the rear trigger leaf and put some emery cloth too it as well but its tough stuff and I made little to no progress. Instead I improved the shim and lifted the trigger assembly up in the mortise a bit more. then I put the tang/trigger screw back in and tightened it right down tight. Then I tested the half and full cock several times being sure it would not slip out of either no matter how hard I pushed on it with my thumb. After several trials it still held.

Don

 

[Phil Coffins]

Good that you got it working. Many folks have this problem so I'm going to try to help explain what I'm talking about in regards to the CVA and similar set triggers. The rear trigger's height can be adjusted while in the gun. The first photo shows the bar to high and would keep the sear from engaging properly. the next photo shows the screw turned in. Note the trigger bar is much lower yet has plenty of snap to trip the sear. No filing required.
IMG_0270 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0271 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Don]

Yeah, I figured that out and turned that screw in as far as it would go.

Don