CVA Mountain Rifle lock

[Choctaw]

I recently purchased a badly used CVA Mountain Rifle. I'm currently working on restoring it but I have a question about the percussion lock and triggers. When I first unpacked the rifle the triggers wouldn't move and the hammer wouldn't stay at half or full cock. Now the hammer will stay at both half and full cock only if I set the trigger first. In other words I have to set the trigger, then pull the hammer back. It does lock in solidly and releases crisply, but this seems backwards to me. Shouldn't I set the trigger once the hammer is at full cock? At least that is how it was with the TC's I have owned. This is my first CVA and I really hope to make it a nice rifle.

 

[jethro224]

Necchi will probably be on here later to help, but the way I understand it, the trigger inletting on these can be a problem. If the triggers are inlet too deep there won't be enough room for the sear to work properly. You could do one of several things to fix the problem.
I'll let somebody with more knowledge tell you the rest.

 

[Choctaw]

Thanks Jethro. It is usable the way it is, just backwards from what I am accustomed to. I will gladly welcome any help you guys can give me.

 

[Zonie]

The problem is the trigger assembly is installed too deeply into the stock.

On older guns which have the barrel tang screw screwing into the trigger assembly plate this is pretty common because, over the years the previous owners overtightened the tang screw.
That ends up crushing the wood that supports the trigger assembly so it keeps getting deeper and deeper into the stock.

When this happens, the previous owner(s) will get mad and sell the gun because "it's broken". :grin:

Loosen up the tang screw and pull the trigger assembly down away from the barrel. It will probably only take maybe 1/16 inch of movement.

Then, try cocking the gun without setting the triggers. If you can, you've found the problem.

To fix it, figure out some way of making something that will serve as a stop so the trigger assembly will always stop at that location.
On some guns, just putting a shim between the trigger plate and the stock wood will do it.

 

[silverfox]

Try what Zonie said to do first. I have fixed several by glueing small pieces of flat toothpicks where needed in the mortice to raise the trigger plate. I also have mine which had the same problem fixed by using a small wood screw placed under the plate which gives you finite adjustment. They are good serviceable locks. Fox

 

[Choctaw]

Zonie, Yes sir, that did the trick. I'll figure out a shim for it tomorrow. Thank you very much for your help.

Silverfox, thank you too for the information. I may have misunderstood, but I could use your flat toothpick idea as shim, couldn't I?

 

[jethro224]

Toothpicks, washer, piece of plastic, piece of sheet metal, bedding compound...
Glad that was all it was. :thumbsup:

 

[Alden]

Never heard of anyone using a screw to counteract the travel -- everything else in the world including custom-lengthened brass tubing -- makes a lot of sense presuming it is significant enough, having a good interface on the trigger assembly somewhere that still ensures stability, strength, and reliability.

 

[mooman76]

I just put a washer in before installing the trigger assy. to act as a spacer. Worked fine for me.

 

[TMan51]

The problem is the trigger assembly is installed too deeply into the stock.

I did this on my first build, a CVA Mtn Rifle. I used a washer to bring the trigger to where it would operate properly, then glass bedded the area the trigger set in, washer in place. It still works fine decades later.

 

[Choctaw]

I sure appreciate all of the advice. Where is the washer installed?

Thanks again.

 

[necchi]

In front.

 

[TMan51]

In front.

Yep, should have noted that

I actually pulled it apart the other day, and the washer was right where I left it, 20 years ago or so.

 

[Alden]

By the way, the locks on the Spanish (sans patchbox) Mountain rifles do not have a reputation for long life. Everything else is just fine but chances are that will not be a gun you hand down for generations...

 

[Choctaw]

Thanks again, everyone. In front it shall go.

Alden, my rifle does have a patchbox but I can't find American made on the barrel. I guess it is a Spanish rifle. For what I paid for it I certainly can't expect too much, but it would be nice to last a few seasons.

 

[Alden]

Nope -- someone can correct me if I'm wrong but yours is American made. Doesn't necessarily mean the barrel can't be an imported piece (don't recall) but that's not a bad thing -- they never had anything but fine barrels. If you got a deal on it on top of that then congratulations!

The real question is "will Luke MacGillie and Brokennock let you call it a Hawken even though it wasn't an apparently life-altering $1,100 investment in an assorted assembled-parts rifle"?

:rotf:

 

[Wes/Tex]

Wasn't Hawkins the name of the kid Long John Silver pestered? "A light charge and a heavy ball from this here piece...!" :wink: :rotf:

 

[azmntman]

The real question is "will Luke MacGillie and Brokennock let you call it a Hawken even though it wasn't an apparently life-altering $1,100 investment in an assorted assembled-parts rifle"?

Just call it a Hawkin and let it go! :stir: :grin:

 

[Choctaw]

I had better just call it my Grayson County rifle and leave it at that. :grin:

 

[Choctaw]

I installed the washer and now the lock works properly. Thanks everyone!

I didn't much care for the brass furniture (patch box and wedge plates) so I stripped the brass plate off and now have an iron look, which I like.

I still haven't decided if I like the stock. Hmmm... :hmm:

The rifle I have came with a browned barrel. Did they come from the factory already browned?

Thanks again.