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Cutting the wheel-lock pan - wow...

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Following an earlier topic http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/212463 I found the article mentioned by Dave Person yesterday and it is story to warm the cockles of our hearts. Well done Foley et al.!

Leonardo, the Wheel Lock, and the Milling Process
Author(s): Vernard Foley, Steven Rowley, David F. Cassidy, F. Charles Logan
Source: Technology and Culture, Vol. 24, No. 3 (Jul., 1983), pp. 399-427

Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/3104759

...the scholarly firearms literature, most notably by Claude Blair, Marco Morin, and Arne Hoff. It centers on a firearms ignition system called the wheel lock, and at present the debate is polarized between two camps. One inclines to the view that Leonardo invented the lock, the other that it was developed by some anonymous German gunsmith.4 In attempting to strengthen the former view, we will argue that this device can shed important new light on Western machine-tool history. The full argument is too complex for this paper, but its leading fea- tures can be summarized.5 Like other common gunlocks of the preindustrial era, the wheel lock is an assembly mounted on the gunstock at the rear of the barrel. On its chief piece, a metal plate, is mounted a powerful mainspring connected at its free end by a short flat-link chain to a shaft carrying the wheel that gives the lock its name (fig. 1). A wrench or spanner can be applied to the squared end of the wheel shaft to twist it through nearly a full turn, winding up the chain and compressing the spring. The wheel can then be held in this position by a subassembly of catches, the sear system, which can be released by the trigger when desired.

Also attached to the lock plate is a spring-loaded swinging arm carrying at its end a miniature vise gripping a piece of very hard stone, iron pyrites (FeS2) being preferred. When this is fully lowered, the stone bears against the rim of the wheel. Surrounding a portion of the wheel rim is a metal block hollowed on both top and bottom, the powder pan (fig. 2). Fine-grained priming powder is put into the top cavity and secured there by a tight-fitting lid which is opened, in most cases automatically, by an arm-cam system driven by the wheel shaft, just before ignition occurs. In the lower part of the pan is the slot in which the wheel turns. The two cavities intersect, so that the wheel rim peeps up through into the powder cavity, where it can be touched by the stone.

When the trigger is pulled, the wheel begins to spin, and sparks are struck by the stone from the wheel rim. The action of the lock thus superficially resembles that of a modern cigarette lighter, but there is an important difference.

In a lighter, or in the similar welder's sparker, a serrated, hardened steel surface, toothed rather like a file, is rubbed against a material that is called a flint but which is in reality a very soft alloy of rare earth metals, Mischmetall, composed chiefly of cerium.6 This element oxidizes so rapidly that when it is machined at high speed, the chips make sparks. Hence, in the cigarette lighter, it is the wheel which machines away the "stone."

In the wheel lock, it is the reverse. Pyrites have a Mohs hardness as high as 6.5, or higher than many carbon steels.7 When the gunlock wheel spins against the stone, it is bits of steel that are scraped away, so fast that the heat generated by the friction causes them to incandesce and so ignite the powder. Afterward one can find microscopic spheres of fused steel in the pan.8

Hence, if we are looking for historic highlights in machine-tool history, it is already interesting to notice that the wheel lock in its firing mode acts as a miniature, all-metal, spring-powered, high-speed, metal turning lathe. Its cutting tool harks back to the Stone Age, but the remainder of its design and operation anticipates the era of Maudslay, Brunel, Bodmer, and Hall.

In order for the gun to function, the priming powder in its pan must not be dribbled away, as by the bumping gallop of a warhorse. Since priming powder was specially fine grained, with pieces about 0.1 millimeter in diameter, or about like coarse flour,10 the fit between wheel and pan had to be a close one.

That Renaissance gunsmiths succeeded in this task is confirmed by measurements taken by us on more than forty locks in several museums and private collections."1 On the best-made gunlocks, the clearance between the wheel and the sidewalls of its slot can run as low as 0.07-0.08 millimeters, or close enough to confine the powder. Between the wheel rim and the slot bottom, even tighter fits are found-0.04-0.05 millimeters is not un- common. These approach modern industrial standards and raise the question of how the slot was made, for the wheel can run as thin as 1.8 millimeters,'2 and the pan may embrace up to a third of the circum- ference of a wheel whose diameter may range from 25 to 40 millime- ters.

The slot can thus be 5 or 6 millimeters deep and is quite cramped for any kind of hand filing or chiseling. The profile of the wheel rim further complicates hand fitting, for nearly all the wheels we have seen, read of, or heard about show a rim which at first glance appears to have threads cut on it.13 Closer in- spection will show, however, that instead of one continuous groove cut helically around the disk, there are typically two (sometimes more) which are completely independent of one another because they all lie in planes parallel to those of the wheel itself. In other words, the helix angle of these vee grooves is zero. On most wheels there will also be small cross grooves cut more or less at right angles to the threads and down as far as their roots. These may be much narrower than the latter. One can see immediately that for a close fit between pan and wheel, each side of each thread must be independently fitted, so that the piercing where the wheel slot meets the pan will have sawtooth ends.

Examining the inside of the pan's wheel slot will show that it has a curved and vee-grooved bottom, which is the mirror image of the wheel rim. Fitting such a slot by hand thus becomes a challenge. The sidewall planes must be cut quite true, and the curved, grooved bottom must be radiused to perfection. Because the crucial surfaces are concave, there is very little room for chisel or file to work, and their strokes could be only a few millimeters long at most. Fortunately, examination of the wheel-slot surfaces under magnification shows that hand fitting was avoided. The job was mechanized, with the wheel rim utilized as a cutter to create its own cavity. The wheel-lock wheel is thus a rotary metal cutter, the most crucial component of the milling machine. As will be seen, its invention can be located half a century earlier than the oldest previously known example and linked closely with thought experiments under- taken by Leonardo. The cross grooves, on those wheels that have them, create triangular cutting faces which scrape away at the bottom of the pan when it is pressed against the wheel rim and the wheel is turned. All the locks we have seen have the pan fitted to the lock plate in such a way that it can be fed against the wheel rim, either by being slid down into a slot in the top edge of the pan or by pivoting around a conveniently located screw.

Locks exist which lack these features, but in them the pan is now brazed into configurations which could not have characterized the parts while they were being manufactured.14 In other words, the wheel lock has not only a cutter but also provision for feeding the workpiece, the pan, toward it. Robert Woodbury has defined a milling machine as a tool wherein the workpiece is secured to a table which is then moved past the cutter.15

Wheel locks lack the table, but they are obviously more akin to millers than to gear-cutting machines, the other obvious choice. Hence our title. Further evidence to support the use of the wheel as cutter in the fabrication of the lock comes from the geometry of the tool marks found on the wheel rim and on the surface of the pan slot. These are best seen under 5-15 x magnification. On the slot sidewalls, fine semicircular striations can be seen which are almost concentric (figs. 3, 4). They are not fully so because the pan advances toward the wheel as the cutting proceeds. On the bottom of the wheel slot, on each flank of each thread form, will be seen continuous and parallel scratches. It is the surface uniformity, continuity, and geometrical regularity of these marks which demonstrate that they were made by the continuous turning and cutting of the wheel. Hand-tool striations would be dis- continuous and nonparallel. (Let anyone who doubts this try to make them otherwise.)

Characteristic curled exit burrs will sometimes be found along the outer sawtooth edges of the wheel slot, where the In order to examine such marks for oneself, locks in very good condition must be sought out. The ignition of gunpowder creates compounds which are highly corrosive, and pan and wheel may no longer have their original surfaces. Wear to the parts caused by firing can also obliterate the striations, although usually not evenly (in our experience) over the whole surfaces of slot and rim. One can usually find a revealing spot if rust has not taken the original surface com- pletely away. After some experience has been acquired, it is not hard to discriminate between firing wear, which produces a buffed or frosted appearance, and the original tooling evidences.

Gouges pro- duced by foreign objects, such as fragments of the pyrites falling between wheel and pan, are also easy to detect. Their depth, direc- tion, and jaggedness usually contrast sharply with the crisp and reg- ular forms of the milling marks.

Armed with this evidence, we sought out the opinion of mechanical engineers about whether the geometry of the wheel was suitable for cutting. Several expressed doubts, citing such technical handicaps as zero back relief and suboptimal cutting angles.17 Nothing would do but to try it.

Accordingly, I constructed a lock using largely tradi- tional hand tools and methods, according to plans published by Georg Lauber,18 the only ones which could be found at the time. Lauber's text reassuringly stated that the wheel could be used to groove the pan, but since he suggested brass rather than the more traditional iron for the pan and turned the wheel with an electric drill rather than by a hand crank, it seemed prudent to try to check his work. Unfortunately, several of his critical dimensions were found to be wrong, and it appears doubtful that a functional lock could be con- structed from his plans as published.

Also, electric drill speeds are much too high for optimal cutting. In order to give the wheel rim as much benefit of the doubt as possible, its spindle was originally turned out on a modern lathe to insure full concentricity.

Unfortunately it warped in heat treating. To overcome this, the spindle was installed in the lock, and a wheel blank with slightly oversized rim was mounted on it and turned down to size and trueness by cranking the wheel by hand while paring away at its rim with a jeweler's graver supported against back thrust by a collar bearing against a convenient adjacent screw. This took less than ten minutes and gave a wheel concentric to less than 0.05 millimeters.

It was then realized that this must have been the process used during the Renaissance, when lathes for trueing the wheel spindle were perhaps not yet commonly available. Subsequent examination of wheel rims for tool marks confirmed this, for the flanks of their threads showed the same parallel striations as the wheel slots, with one slight difference. A slight waffling of the surface, familiar to machinists as "chatter marks," and sometimes forming ripples run- ning approximately normal to the line of the striations, could often be seen. These are caused by tool vibrations, caused in turn by the tool being hand held. It is not unusual to find wheels whose rim eccentric- ity is far less than the eccentricity of their spindles, confirming that they were turned after being mounted in place.
The article has photos, etc, but having to click the copyright agreement means I won't post the whole thing.

I am sure there are a couple of people who already have this, indeed I wouldn't be surprised if one of you knows (or is one of) the authors. The paper can be had by going to a university or other library with access to JSTOR and downloading it like I did. If you can't do this, an email to thinkshard at yahoo.com with your email address may be helpful.
 
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ChrisPer,
Thanks so much for posting this, and bringing us back to a discussion of Wheellocks, a favorite of mine.
This was fascinating to read. There examination of original locks is just the kind of revealing evidence that so holds my attention. I now see that I erred seriously in trying to hand fit the pan to the wheel. Even though three of my locks actually work, prime will get dragged out of the pan when the wheel is released to spin.
I will disagree on one small item. I absolutely know that if one has the right pyrites, the wheel strikes sparks off the pyrite. Pyrites that were too hard didn't strike fire and too soft crumbled before striking fire. Other types of stone, like flint, will strike fire off the wheel if the wheel is not too hard. Grzrob has discovered that chert is very reliable in my RifleShoppe lock. Chert will definately strike fire off the wheel. Just my humble experience.
But thanks again for posting the article. If I get a chance to build another lock, I can use this information and my own experiences to build a better one.
volatpluvia
 
I don't see why any medieval wheelock maker would bother with the slow and arduous method proposed by Foley when much simpler and faster methods were available to anyone doing this kind of work.

The way it was done is by "hubbing", where a male replica of the feature is driven into an approximately shaped recess. The hub is cold, the material heated to forging temperature. In the wheelock the hardened and tempered wheel itself would make an ideal "hub" for this purpose. It would be necessary to make a semicircular holder to uniformly support the opposite side of the wheel. The result will be a close fit between features on the wheel and the recess in the bottom of the pan. Clearance between the wheel and pan can be controlled by adjustment of the axle center relative to the centerline of the circular features in the pan. Obviously all of the lock components were made by forging. Anyone skilled enough to forge the rest of the lock parts would have no difficulty fitting the wheel this way.

Any blacksmith care to comment?

Johnhb
 
Actually I believe the process you are refering to is called hobbing. Most modern gears are made this way. What you are talking about doing is a hot forging operation but it is a good idea. It never occured to me to form it this way. It could be done with a piece of oversize bar stock and every thing that is not pan cut away. The forming tool would need to be hardened and tempered so it would stand up to the pounding.
:thumbsup:
 
Hobbing gears is quite different to the hot swaging process, I think. It involves a cutter formed like a worm gear with teeth cut across the 'thread'.
 
However, the hot process described above would leave clear evidence in the product. Foley describes in the paper selecting wheellocks in extremely good condition and looking at the toolmarks to confirm what he describes.
 
That was what I was attempting to point out. Almost all involute gears a made by the hobbing process but I digress and we both are straying from the subject. :wink:
 
Aha! Thanks for that.

DO send me email as suggested above if anyone wants me to forward the pdf of Foley's paper. There is more than I could post above.
 
Good morning
Very informative ! :thumbsup: I repair and collect pocket watches. Here in Peru I have the oppertunity to work with Fuesee movements... which are very similar to the drive system on Wheellocks.
One day I will own one of these fine rifles(replica).
God Bless ya !
 
When I built my Lauber lock (which has yet to achieve ignition), I used the 'hand grind' method. I made my pan from brass and held the plate in my vise, and used the spanner to turn the wheel. I just kept applying downward pressure on the pan and it slow ground the pan to very close fit. If I had to guess, I'd imagine one could make a 'master' wheel sufficiently hardened, to grind iron. Would you imagine they used steel or iron for the pans? I wish the fellows who get their hands on originals could give some more 'quantatative' data. Seems the only locks that work are those 'kit' locks you guys have built. For example: What's the minimum number of degrees the wheel must 'wind-up' to work? How many pounds....or ounces..of downward force must the cock spring exert? I think, personally, the Lauber design is best used as a wall drawing. The main spring and rear portion of the plate are too short to get much wind up. As well as the way it's designed. There are a number-perhaps not many-of errors, making me suspicious if it ever worked, or just a design to say: Here's an example of a wheellock. As some one pointed out to me much earlier, here, a smallish Lauber size would probably be okay in a French design, wherein the mainspring is separate and extends back into the stock, with the axle held on a separate plate. Have you guys ever heard, or read, of anyone actually firing one of those 'original'? As for our friend in Peru, the Museum of Arms and Gold (Lima)was one of the best collections I've ever seen!
 
TN Hills Guy,
I know some of this is old news to you, but I thought I would try to answer a question or two.
Actually three of the four locks I built were not kits, but my own designs. Two of those actually work.
I really don't know how much pressure the dog has to exert on the pyrite/wheel junction, but it isn't much. I applied about three pounds of thumb pressure to make one lock fire consistantly.
The originals reportedly turn about three quarters of a turn. My TRS lock did. I never was able to get more than half a turn out of my own designs, but two of them worked anyway. But they did not have to open the pan. A goodly part of the three quarters turn is used up opening the pan before the pyrite can set down on the spinning wheel. I hope this helps.
volatpluvia
 
Good morning
The Museum of Arms & Gold IS a great place to visit. Been there several times. Sadly the weapons are not being cared for and slowly oxidising even in the controlled climate. :shake:
Mike in Peru
 
That's some data that is 'quantitative'! No doubt one's 'own design' has as much probability of success as an original. I just don't think the Lauber design is the one to start with...my personal feeling! This winter up here has been so cold, I can't even think of working in my shop. Maybe with warmer weather, I can get back to work. The value, I think, of our posts is to hopefully re-discover some basics in building a 'working' wheelie. For the record, in yours that fired, what were you using as 'pyrites'? I know Wolf has been successful using welder's lighter flints.. I've tried them with no sucess. I'm thinking though I am not getting enough 'spin', owing that to the Lauber design. Also, for those that worked, describe your wheel: knife edged grooves, hardened wheel, serrations? I imagine there are a few fellows who watch these posts and would like to build one. Wonder how many non-working examples have been built?Unfortunately, our ancient builders didn't give us much in the way of blueprints and instructions.
 
TN Hills Guy,
I discovered the hard way that the edges on the wheel must be knife sharp. The wheel has to spin fast enough that you can't follow it with the eye. My third, counting the TRS cast parts set, worked without serrations, but later I added them hoping to get just a bit more fire. I think it did work better at that point but I can't quantify it. I had an ordinary pyrite picked up from crushed driveway limestone. That worked better than anything had since then.
I had pyrites from Peter Dyson in London, england. Many of them were aggregates of small cubes. I found they crushed easily and weren't worth much. The larger single cubes from Horst Guns worked well, but not consistantly. But they were the best I have been able to buy. Now, in the order from Dyson there were about three pieces that had a fine crystal backed by something that could have been ironstone. Those worked very well but got used up quickly. Grzrob is using chert, which scratches sparks off the wheel. It works very well and consistently for him on my old TRS lock.
Okay, gotta check if I missed any questions on your post.
volatpluvia
 
Oh, yes,
The wheel was hardened to within an inch of its life. Now, Bookie, says his works just fine without hardening his wheel. His is also a TRS set of cast parts. I understand they have the wheel cast from 6150 steel, same as they use for their springs. I imagine there have been a few non working models created in the modern era.
volatpluvia
 
One point that escapes me is exactly the 'process' occuring with the wheelock/pyrite vs. the flint/flintlock. We know scientifically, the flint is shaving off microscopic bits of steel. My flinters only work when hardened, and then tempered (350 deg F/1hour). Now, I suppose the type/quality of the 'steel' used in the wheel has something to add/subtract. Don't know, guessing the originals were iron. I think we're satisfied all 'pyrites' are not created equally. I don't know exactly where to get chert, but I'd like to try it...just once! BTW,interesting point regarding the 'razor sharp edges', do you find they hold up, or are they showing signs of dulling? I guess the question goes to what we're 'throwing' into the powder. You know, one thing I have not tried is to put some pyrite in my flinter and see what happens......guess I'll go try that! Bill
 
Report of Lab test 1051.4: I took 2 pieces of pyrite I had originally gotten from Horst, put no.1 in my flint pistol, fired repeatedly.....nothing. Took piece no. 2, put it in my flinter..again after numerous firings, nothing. I had also bought a piece of, I believe it's called 'French Amber', broke a piece off..and with a wee,tiny point, chucked it in the flinter...POOOF....first time! My pyrite(s) won't work in a flintlock! Will they work in a wheellock? Point is: how do you know if you've got a working wheelie? Should a pyrite fire a flintlock? Seems as though the only way to test this is to have a known, tested, working piece of pyrite! I think we can agree, all pyrites are not created equally. /Signed/ Frustrated in Tennessee!
 
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Pyrite is softer and more frangible than flint. The wheel is actually grinding away the pyrite. The flint in a flintlock is as you say scraping off white hot bits of metal and grows shorter as a result of it impacting the frizzen face and chipping of small pieces of itself. In other words the pyrite wears by abrasion anf the flint wears from impact and the resultant fracture. On the MOHS scale pyrite comes in at 6.5 and flint at 7 as does chert. It will wear a wheel faster than pyrite.
 
Chert is a geological term for a microcrystalline quartz rock, usually a recrystallised fine-grained quartz rock. One of the most famous is called the gunflint chert http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gunflint_Chert.

Flint is a variety of chert, usually formed as siliceous nodules in limestone units.

Both flint and chert are much harder than steel.

Pyrite on the other hand is 'a bit' harder than steel. The article I quoted above claims the pyrite works by abrading the steel like a flintlock but I think the better explanation was by a member here, suggesting that friction on a very fine location causes it to heat and ignite a spark from the pyrite, which is chemically reactive with oxygen or moisture.
 
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Yes, sir,
It is my understanding and experience that the wheel scrapes minute particles of pyrite off and they are hot enough to ignite, which ignites the prime. Both sulfer and iron will ignite if heated high enough. It is the sharpness of the ridges on the wheel that do the heating and scraping. I really don't think a wheel of soft iron would work, it would have to be impregnated with carbon and hardened.
The reason pyrite will not work in a flinter is that it can't be made sharp enough and it is not hard enough to scrape sparks off steel. The flint can be knapped sharp enough to do surgery.
Yes, If a piece of pyrite will work in once wheeler lock and not in another, something is wrong with the lock that it doesn't work in.
hope this helps. :surrender: :v :grin:
volatpluvia
 

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